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Discussion Starter #1
93 eg w/ a b18c1 usdm... im looking to complete the rest of my bolt ons... but i found myself looking further down the road to internals and new gaskets and whatnot... i came to the conclusion that by selling my motor and using that money towards a jdm b18c5 would be about the same money. Does this make sense to anyone...?

Im looking to get atleast 200 whp out of my usdm gsr, but with all the work i have to do (bolt-ons, and internally), wouldnt it just be safer easier, and overall smarter just to spend the money on a jdm itr?

Example #1: i wanted to get the skunk2 intake manifold and the profab gasket, and a larger throttle body, so i could do that.... But, the itr already as a larger TB, and perfectly fine stock IM, and the head is already ported and polished.

Example #2: i want to get skunk2 stage 2 cams. i need to replace the valve springs and retainers to use these in a gsr. I could simply just drop these cams in an ITR w/ no other mods needed.

Example #3: i want a closer gear ratio and larger final drive, w/ LSD. doing this to my gsr would cost thousands. a jdm itr already has all this

My question is, (with no real concern about money), for what i want (200 whp, n/a), wouldnt it make sense to sell my gsr and get an jdm itr?
for all who respond: if u think im wrong say so, and be specific, i'll understand
 

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hotdogbun said:
Example #2: i want to get skunk2 stage 2 cams. i need to replace the valve springs and retainers to use these in a gsr. I could simply just drop these cams in an ITR w/ no other mods needed.
Wrong. If you want to drop Skunk2 Stage 2 cams in a ITR engine, you still need to upgrade the valvetrain. Those cams are way too aggressive for OE valvesprings and retainers. The ITR valvesprings are reliable up to about 8500 RPM, with about just a few tenths more lift over ITR cams. The stage 2's have WAYYY more lift than the ITR cams. Add to the fact that those cams tend to make best power around or above 9000 RPM, and that alone means the ITR valvesprings are toast.

I do agree though, the ITR complete swap has a lot of cool features over the GSR. I mainly look at the LSD and 4.785 FD that comes with the 98 spec ITR S80 trannies. I personally would pick a ITR swap over a GSR swap, if the difference in price were only a thousand dollars or so simply because of the tranny and 4-1 header.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
not that i know of. i could easily find out for sure. I'm not very concerned too much about torque. If I was building this car for anything other than a reliable fun weekend car and nEEded more torque, than I would've chosen a built b20 w/ b16/itr head. But for what this car is going to be used for, I'm keeping it as simple as possible.
 

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hotdogbun said:
not that i know of. i could easily find out for sure. I'm not very concerned too much about torque. If I was building this car for anything other than a reliable fun weekend car and nEEded more torque, than I would've chosen a built b20 w/ b16/itr head. But for what this car is going to be used for, I'm keeping it as simple as possible.

:confused---What the hell are you saying? It seems to me that you are going to be doing alot more than just driving your car around with those mods that you already have!!! Now you know, torque is acceleration, it is something that you really should worry about with those mods... Its very hard to get torque numbers up, now remember that when you pull up against a GSR!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ginyu6869:confused---What the hell are you saying? It seems to me that you are going to be doing alot more than just driving your car around with those mods that you already have!!! Now you know, torque is acceleration, it is something that you really should worry about with those mods... Its very hard to get torque numbers up, now remember that when you pull up against a GSR!!!

First off, I'm only looking to achieve around 200whp, which can be done with bolt-ons and some tuning on an itr. Stage 2 cams w/ springs and retainers would only be done if I couldn't achieve that number after the bolt-ons are done. That's it.

Secondly, if this was my job and i wanted a rEal fast car for the tracks, i would most likely custom build a b20 w/ b16 head and turbo it. But, since i won't be racing this car, and it's purely for fun, that is completely unreasonable.

Lastly, I have 2 jobs, work 60 hours a week, and go to college full time. I don't have time to go racing at the tracks, nor do i have the time or interest to find sponsors for doing so. I want a reliable car that's fast and simple.

please keep in mind that i'm not trying to be argumentative, but i have other ambitions and goals other than to have a 10 second car... I do understand where you're coming from though, and you are right. Torque is very important and I won't be disregarding it in the tuning and dyno's.
 
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