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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
okay... I was going to buy some of these and give it a shot... but they're $118 for 30 of them, and you have to create an account with them in order to buy them. I created the account, but I'm not spending $118 for something I'm 99% positive will not do jack shit.

tell you what, someone else buys them (runninsohc) and sends me a couple, I'll do the test and prove it doesn't do anything and you wasted your money.

I'm sorry, as an emissions inspector myself, I fail cars everyday that try to "get around the test" by using the nonsense "repairs". I've had people run all sorts of fuel additives/treatments/conditioners, i've had people put ice in their airbox... i've had people pour water down the carbeurator... I've really seen it all...

there is no substitute for actual repairs.
 

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i wanna add something in here, just a little tidbit of info.

if your fail your sniffer and your just a little bit over on either co2 or nox fucking with your base timing can get you a pass. depending on how hot of a burn is going on advancing or retarding the timing can either slightly cool or slightly heat the burn. co2 and nox levels are effected by combustion temp. thus advancing or retarding to heat it up or cool it down can swing it towards less co2 and more nox or less nox and more co2.

if both of your levels failed your pretty much fucked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
yeah, you're right about that rick... i have a lot of my customers do just that.

another tidbit of gas cap knowledge to add... A lot of times when I fail a gas cap on the pressure test, flipping the rubber seal around to use the other side will help it pass. while flipping, I clean it with windex or something like that to help get the dirt/grime off of it, just to ensure a proper seal.

that rubber seal is the main reason gas caps fail... a lot of times the top sealing surface will get hard and cracked, where the other side is almost like new. So I use the other side if it has problems... might be a good idea to go ahead and flip that seal yourself every once in a while just to be sure you're getting a proper seal, and extend the life of your gas cap.

although, since they only cost $5 at the parts store anyway...
 

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www.ubieepill.com/thepill
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
send me two, if you dont mind... and I'll post up actual readings on them before and after. I'll buy them off you if needed.
 

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skatin_emcee said:
ok so 2 scenarios

95 honda prelude S - H22 swap
00 civic hatch - H22 swap


can either be legallized in cali?
As long as the engine is a USDM and is the same year or newer then I don't see a problem. Cali has the weird law that any engine you swap into your car has to the same year or newer then the car itself.
 

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I just pay 120 bucks too a source and pass in California no probs when I am there... Now here is one does anyone know if it is illegal to have nitrous on your car in California as long as your not spraying cuz I am is Sc but I am going to drive home to hit some tracks and visit some family but I have a resonator pipe cat back and cold air DC sports headers 4-2-1 and a NOS wet shot kit running 65 shot and the motor was home swapped with an H22A JDM motor with Type s pistons and Crower cams an upgraded ECU and no rev limiter or Governor Etc...

I am affraid they will take my car will the fact that I am military and registered is SC save my ass???
 

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skatin_emcee said:
your an idiot. so dont answer my question.

You didnt post a question for 1 the forum was posted on getting around Smog checks or BNA emissions testing all I want to know is if they say pop my hood if I get stopped will they call the tow truck in like so many others I have hear this has happened too but I dont care what you call me IDIOT or not I am fast...

YEAAAAAAH
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
skatin_emcee said:
these would be JDM engines. and doesn't have have to be an engine from the same type car? like prelude prelude civic - civic?

no, it doesn't. In georgia, and most states, any engine can be put in any car, provided the state gives it a Grandfather exemption and it still passes a standard two speed idle test. In some states, including georgia, for a standard engine swap it would have to be the same engine of the same model year or newer to pass. That is without a Grandfather exemption, and you'd still have to run a regular ASM test.

People get away with putting V8s in Miatas and such based on the governments kit car and Grandfather laws. All states have them... the thing is, they just dont want you to know about it. Ask, and ye shall receive. This is how OBD1 conversions and kit cars and such get tags, because of this law. There are very, very few cars they can keep off the streets... provided the owner goes through all the red tape.
 

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skatin_emcee said:
i did ask a question....



and i'll answer your question about poppin the hood real quick. if there is anything at all illegal under the hood, and a cop pops it. your screwed... period.
Not nessessarily true. I am military and i was stationed in Virgina or 4 1/2 years. Va is ALOT like cali with there emission laws....but being that Naval Station Norfolk is the biggest navy base in the world(not counting the 4 bases in the area also) there are too many people that are va native...therefore is their vehicle is registered out of state and they still hold their out of state license the farthest they can go is a fix it ticket. Mainly becasue a military person stationed in another state other than the state they left when they came in...is NOT a resident of the state that they are stationed in.....if that is different from their state of residency. I know this is true becasue when i first got ot va my car and license were still a valid Pennsylvania license. I got pulled roughly 6 or 7 times....and was given a warning EVERYTIME! It wasnt until after i switched to a va license( to take the motorcycle test) was i ticketed and charged with stuff. Military does ahve its advantages..you just have to know what they are and how to use them. Hopefully somone was educated by this post! :tu
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
nah... model trim engines dont matter. same model year or newer. To get it legal without getting the state to give you a special exemption (grandfather clause, custom, kitcar, whatever) then the only stipulation is that the new engine came in the car at some point, from the factory. So while the 4th gen 'Lude had an F22, an H22, and an H23 from the factory in different trims, you could legally get away with putting any of those engines, provided their manufacture date was of the same model year or newer.

They say "same model year or newer" because every year, the manufacturers have to comply with emissions standards and some things get changed, emissions-wise. So, provided you're putting a model year 97 engine into say, a 96 prelude, you're good. trying to put a MY94 engine into the same 96 Prelude would have to be given special exemption from the state, due to the fact the 94 engine is OBD1 standard, and a MY96 car is OBD2 from the factory.


does that make sense? as long as it was offered in the car from the factory in ANY trim level, it can go in the car provided it's the same model year or newer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I take it yours is a '95? then, yeah, I'd go ahead and get a '95 MY engine, just to be on the safe side. In states other than Cali (like here in GA), you can probably get away with a slightly older year, provided they dont look real hard. If you manage to find some inspector who doesn't really know much about hondas, or engines in general, then you're in luck.

those are the laws though... if it's a 95, then get a 95 engine or an OBD2 engine... in this case, you'll need to convert to OBD2... which is a huge pain in the ass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
most engines have the original vehicle's VIN plate riveted to the block... some are stamped into it... but it should be there, either way.

in VIN numbers, the tenth digit signifies the year... so a 1995 model has 'S' as the tenth digit.

Theoretically, you can get away with getting an older engine, provided you go to the trouble of making sure there is no way to tell that it wasn't manufactured in 1995. take the plate off or sand off the VIN stamp. 95% of inspectors aren't going to check...
 

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clone i need help

ok i know you dont know everything about california emission laws but i think the ref i went to is retarded ok well this is whut i got

89 honda crx si with DOHC ZC w/ p29 ecm and ZC tranz
obd0- obd1 swap

ok well they ran my car as a 89 acura integra second after i explained that its obd1 and they asked why i used a heated (4 wire) O2 sensor and that i need an obd0 O2 sensor
also my dizy has the cam angle sensor in it but he said i need the CAS on my engine ok now my readings were this

HC 52/42
CO 0.01/0.01
NO 1626/1660

whut should i do is this BS or no? also my engine is out of a 93 JDM CRX
also i found out that they did not run my car right on the dyno they let it idle toooo long and they didnt put the fan in front of it


thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I do not test cars in California... so while I do know a good amount of what their program is all about, I do not know the specifics. You'll have the best luck speaking with the state representatives themselves... I'm sure there is some sort of state center for that type of stuff, as we have similar waiver centers in Georgia. Worst comes to worst, contact California's Dept. of Natural Resources and if they cant give you the information you need directly, they can refer you to whoever can.

As for whatever I can help you with...

Here in the state of Georgia, a vehicle's allowable testing limits are based on make, model, and engine size. Testing your vehicle as an 89 Integra (when it is in fact, an 89 CRX) would give you an inaccurate test, since the allowable limits are probably not the same between both vehicles. This can be easily disputed with the state and/or emissions testing facility. What engine is actually installed in the car is "normally" irrelevant. I say "normally" because there are some extenuating circumstances involved in engine swaps and most state laws vary on the matter. The most common issues in this area are with factory equipped OBDII vehicles that have been converted to OBDI or prior. This is not you, obviously.

Whatever your car actually read (i.e., the gas levels coming out of your tailpipe) has nothing to do with the state's database of allowable limits, and thus would be correct no matter which car the inspector entered into the analyzer. He could put it in as a 93 Crown Victoria, and your readings would still be the same. The state's allowable limits would not.

As for dyno testing... most emissions analyzers (and moreso for dyno tests) require the car to idle for a certain period of time. Especially in dyno testing because cars tend to test better when they're at standard operating temperature. So I wouldnt worry about that much. Putting the fan in front of the car has no bearing on your results whatsoever, it's just designed to blow air through the radiator and keep your car from overheating while on the dyno. Also, here in Georgia we are required by law to use the fan if the outdoor temperature is 50 degrees or warmer. Below 50, using the fan is entirely optional, and most of us opt to not use it. Depending on Cali. state law and when you had your car tested, it may have been legal for your inspector to not use the fan. No, I do not know the temperature required by the state of California.

Your numbers arent awful, but they're not great either. you've probably got a pretty nasty EGR problem (cleaning out or replacing the EGR system would most likely lower your NOx levels). your hydrocarbons can be lowered by looking at your ignition system... check the plugs, wires, and distributor, and replace them if needed. and make sure the timing is correct. I generally prefer that the timing be set to factory standards, but I've had some customers who have had luck lowering HC levels by retarding or advancing ignition timing a few degrees. A little trial and error could work to your advantage in this situation, but I wouldnt recommend it.

I would try taking your vehicle to a different location to be tested, and be sure they enter your vehicle's make/model/engine size correctly. I also would not tell them about the engine swap, because they probably wont catch it anyway with just a quick glance under the hood (being of the same size and manufacturer, made around the same time period) and telling them about it will really just cause more problems than it would solve... but that's just me, I guess.
 

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NEED to pass smog test in SOCAL

Hello everyone,
I bought a 1993 Del Sol S with a blown head gasket fixed that and replaced the cheap intake with an AEM so that it would pass smog regulations in SOCAL. It was already registered in California and had stickers until June. I took it to a test only center. The test results are bad. :cry
HC (PPM): MAX=71/41 MEAS:163/168
CO (%): MAX=0.39 MEAS:0.81
NO (PPM): MAX=720/774 MEAS:2721/2735
:fear I have VERY little money to spend and I had an inspection estimate of $90.00 which wouldn't repair anything, just tell me what is wrong and they said they couldn't grantee that the 1st repair would make it pass the smog test. They informed me that I might have to spend near $900.00 to make it pass. I was wondering if anyone else had similar problems or knew what I needed to do in order to have this pass? :confused I was reading this thread and thought this would be the BEST place to get answers even though I'm in SOCAL. ANY help would be wonderful!
Thank You!
:D
 

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I can tell you what I know about fuel conditioners and fuel treatments... they're the same thing. And every car I've ever tested that has used this stuff has had little or no decrease in emissions readings and has still auto clicker failed. I've looked at the pill's website... and I dont believe the kind of results they're claiming. If it was really that good, it'd be available everywhere and no one would ever get their cars repaired... they'd just use this.
 
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