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Discussion Starter #1
Help or ideas..
I have two complete running cars.
1 my crx with papers, dpi d15b7 5 speed
2 my 94 accord wagon without papers, f22a 5 speed
Im looking to pull the accord apart build the motor and gt30r turbo.
The questions...
1. Can I use the accord shifter and linkage?
2. H22 mounts without modifying them?
3. How much boost will the stock sleeves hold?
4. Can I use the accord wiring for the body and the motor?
5. Chipped p06 ecu or p28? I think p06 being as its single cam non vtec
6. What axles? Custom?
And ive done research already but no answers for those questions. Im looking for a 10second race car not some daily driver if itll hold 20 to 25psi with stock sleeves and a block gaurd id be stoked. I live in hawaii and have never seen one here or anywhere for that matter im looking to beat my friends fully built grs gt40 turbo and my other friends lsv turbo ek making 520whp:) it can be done. Just dont wanna pay 3k to ship the block and have it sleeved any advice would be greatly appriciated:clappy
 

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1. For the linkage, look up an H22 swap since the linkage is the same. That way you can see how to run it.

2. You will need custom mounts for this. Hasport, Innovative, etc have mounts for these swaps. It is the same as an H22 swap.

3. Stock sleeves can usually hold anywhere from 200-300whp. It is all dependent on the condition of the sleeves. A block guard will hurt you more then help.

4. If this is going to be a full on strip car, make a custom harness using the plugs and wires from the 2 harnesses you already have. That's the cheapest way to run it. Plus you can eliminate unnecessary things like the radio, AC, lights, etc.

5. If you can find someone who is willing to chip and tune the Accord ECU, it will be a bit easier. There is no need for a P28 since there isn't a VTEC.

6. You will need hybrid axles. Homemade or an H series swap axles.

If you are wanting to hit high numbers like your buddies, resleeve the block and put forged internals. You will burn through the motor too fast otherwise with high power.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im going full on forged internals and top end ported and polished by me with valves springs etc. buy really a block gaurd will hurt me? I figure since its single cam non vtec that it wont effect the oiling at all so if you can explain that it would help.. And as far as sleeving it im not the kind of person to spend 3k on sleeving and shipping no one on island does it
 

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Discussion Starter #4
But really only 300,my friens bseries has stock sleeves and the f22 has iron sleeves,so I figured it would be abke to hold more than the bseries. And axles I can use the fseries inners and crx outters? Just a thought hasport makes swap axles for like 700 buck then ship um here and your looking at 900 on axles alone
 

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You can pull more power out of the stock sleeves, just don't expect the sleeves to last very long. Block guards require boring the sleeves otherwise it will just distort it. And since you would be boring it anyways, resleeving it would be better, and cost roughly the same amount as the guard and bore. You can pick up Darton sleeves for $200-$600. That's stock to MID performance sleeves. Flanged performance sleeves are roughly $300 to $400 with shipping. But I have heard bad stories about them in higher performance applications, and good stories in lower performance applications.

Where did you see Hasport axles for $700? That's insane. For that price you should be able to get stage 3(2.9) axles. Those can hold some nice power. Stock axles will eventually break when you start getting into some real power. You can use the stock ones to start, but when you want to get some real nice power, upgrading is always good. Don't want your first race against your buddy to end half way down the strip because you snapped an axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its the shipping to here not the cost of the item that hurts me, so axles where can I get a set of swap axles or can I put the prelude hubs on it and run stronger axles im assuming they would be cheaper than swap axles. Also can I do the sleeves my self? Never tried before but if I get it bored out can I install the sleeves or is it really that complicated im just saying since the motors free why not try it I have another f22a sitting out back to. And whyvdo uu say I need to bore it out to install a block gaurd. Never had to in my b16a.
 

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As far as the hubs go, I believe you will have to either stick with the CRX hubs, or pick up DA Integra or the B20 modeled Prelude. The late 80's model. You can run stock sized axles, I'm just say once you start putting out some real power, you snap them like a twig faster then you think, which would mean you have to buy 2 sets of axles everytime. Driveshaft Shop sells hybrid axles at different stages for what power you want to make, and range in thickness and stronger materials. So I would say buy the stronger axles under warranty, and if you do manage to break it, they will be replaced. It is cheaper overall then constantly buying 2 sets of OEM axles just to make your own hybrid axles.

As far as sleeving yourself goes, you can. I've seen people do it on there own. I've never done it, nor do I plan on ever doing it myself. Just as long as you have the tools, go for it. I'm not sure on how it is done, so I can't help too much on how to do it yourself.

Normally a slight bore and hone on the cylinder walls is required for a block guard. Most times the cylinders will warp because you are forcing in the guard to cylinders that have already been broken in and are a certain shape. At least that's the word on the street. If you do go this route, have a cnc shop do it. The guards need pressed in with at least a hone to ensure the rings seat right after break in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I deffinently want stronger axles and I want to try and put the newer prelude front hubs and rear breaks on just cuz it might end up being a car I take out on the weekend or friday night. Im goin gb to look into sleeving it but most likely just the gaurd, and both my friends cars are daily driven500 hp b series on stock sleeves been thay way for a while
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yeah for sure, there is one thing still on my mind, for the h22 to ef you have to bang the frame rail out quite a bit. Same for the f22 if so idont want it to be ugly so slege hammer then body filler to smooth it out or just knotch it
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yea im now looking for a sponsor idk how itll go but drive shaft shops h22 axles and hub kit and centershat 2400 without shippong ive never had a sponsor before and have no clue how to get one
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just found that out I need a sponsor to cover around 12k to full build the car and safly run low 10s all day
 

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You can probably do a low 10 sec build for a lot less then $12k. Try picking up a turbo from a diesel truck, they tend to go for very cheap and are nicely made. Then eBay the intercooler and pipes. If you know someone, or can do one yourself, Vibrant sells individual mandrel bent tubing for a DIY turbo manifold. You can build a nice one for under half the price of buying a name brand one, and even less if you weld it yourself. Pick up a good blow off valve, and your turbo kit is built.

The stock F22 parts will yeild an 8.81:1 compression ratio, which is great for boost. Forge the rods and pistons, and you'll be set. You can up the compression to 9.31:1 using the F23 crank and rods with F22 pistons. That will give you a bit more torque and power from the extra stroke. And again, forge the rods and pistons, with these numbers, you can get into the 500+whp range with a good tune, and great torque to match.

According the the HP calculator, these are what the setups yield. And a 2500 pound car at 1000 feet elevation, with max power at 7000rpms at 15psi/25psi, with a portmatched port, and stock head. Your conditions will vary.

F22 internals - Crank: 416.87/557.22, Wheel: 354.34/473.64, Qtmile: 11.17/10.14sec

F23 C/R & F22 P - Crank: 425.64/568.96, Wheel: 361:80/483.61, Qtmile: 11.09/10.07

Not too shabby. Of course with head work, more port, etc these numbers would increase with the same levels of boost. And those are with budget parts. It's always better to do the work yourself, it's what real builders do, how do you think HKS, Blitz, Greddy, Full-Race, etc do it. It's cheaper, more rewarding, and you can brag about it to those who spend $12k when you spent half of that.
 
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