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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i currently have a b16 w/je 11:7.1 pistons,eagle rods,crower 403 cams and valvetrain,vafc,190 fuel pump,i/h/e,fpr and rail. i wanted more power so i bought a ls/vtec block from import builders w/ itr pistons and ls rods. with this new setup, what should the redline be? what can the ls rods take and if i get arp rod bolts, where should my redline be then? i'm using a pr3 chipped ecu right now,should i go back to a stock program? i know on my b16, my vtec xover was at 6000 and i made power to 9000. will the different displacement able me to engage vtec earlier since my redline will be lower than 9000? and finally, does anyone know what kind of power i should be putting down with this setup??? sorry about all the questions but the shops around here don't know jack. :confused:
 

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first off. stay away from the ls/vtec. it's asking for trouble in my experience. i've had an ls/vtec and it was nothing but trouble.
but i'll answer your questions. maybe that'll provide a little insite as to why you don't want to do it.
with your cams your redline should be 9000 rpm? don't take the ls block over 8000 for extended periods of time. the r/s ratio of your b16 is 1.74:1 the r/s ratio of the b18 is 1.54:1 and thus requires you to keep the block at sub 8k rpm.
the ls rods are pretty strong for what they are and really won't be a problem. if you get arp rod bolts you will probably still want to keep your motor below 8000 rpm most of the time.
your ecu program will probably need to be re-tuned if you decide to do an ls/vtec. it's a different motor, it'll need new fueling requirements.
your vtec-x over will be no different if you switch out blocks. that xover point is determined by your camshafts. you may now see why the lsblock is such a shitty idea. it's limiting your ability to rev on a regular basis. i'm sure you could take the motor in ls/vtec form to 9000 rpm occasionally. but for daily driving keep it 8000 rpm or below.
personally i'd say keep your motor the way it is and tune it. you've probably got more power in there somewhere. you just need to unlock it. if you do decide to fuck your motor up then keep your rpm's sub 7500 as much as possible, spinning beyond 8000 rpm's at your own discresion.
 

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I agree, I wouldn't take it all the way to 9k though. Think about it, the ls regularly stops at 6750 (something like that) if you take it to 8200, then you are alreay 1500 rpm overrevved. 9000 would be too much. sure it might do it,but it won't last very long
 

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well i'm on your side. with the arp rod bolts i would go to 8500 rpm. go to importreview.com and look at how to build a correct ls/vtec. they take theirs to 8600 without shotpeened rods. your ecu won't need to be re-tuned cause your still using the same wireharness, b16 head, and compression. and you already have the high cc injectors and fuel pump so your fine. y would u need to re-tune your ecu your only changing the block, that doesn't even sound right if you think about it dude. just get everything balanced with new bearings and your good to go. have fun and DO WHAT YOU WANT!! you'll have fun and beat all those guyz who say don't do lsvtec cause mine blew up. :p that's like saying "don't get on planes cause my cousin died on one so it's a bad idea" plus once you add high compression and high profile cams it's not gonna last long period, no matter what motor. you'll be changing valvetrain often and using high octane fuel. if you want a grocery getter get a honda accord
 

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he needs his ecu retuned because it's a larger ammount of air that's being moved into the cylender you idiot. if you don't change the ammount of fuel going in as well you'll create a lean run condition and you'll blow your motor. but that'll never happen 'cause you've never READ that have you?
it's all in what you want in a motor. if you want crazy revs and ok power then stick with your b16a and get her dyno tuned again. you're never going to get neck snapping power from that motor with the crower camshafts however. there are better profiles for it. if you want i would head over to HV and read up on tuan's posts about camshafts and what not.
 

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If I was you I wouldnt be worrying about redline etc. For an ls/vtec to work properly you maintaining the proper air/fuel ratio with fuel mods that would probably be some bigger injectors then the 240cc. Got to worry about the lubrication sytem and no 9000 rpm rev limiter anymore. I hear stuff about it rod to strock ratio is horrible bla bla forget ls vtec it sucks
 

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I'm in the same boat as you, going LS/VTEC in my Rex. But anyways, why did you choose ITR pistons and LS rods instead of Eagle and JE? Keep in mind that the B18C1/C5 also share 1.5 r/s ratios and they rev 8000+ all day long. But it's probebly due to lubrication and the block girdle.
 

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Just wondering something from you guys who don't like LSVTEC, what do you guys think of CRVTEC? I'm currently building one now and am looking for a second gen Rex to put it in. I would imagine you feel the same way about the two motors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well if it was such a bad idea, i don't think the ls/vtec and the b20/vtec would be so popular. as long as you build it right and take care of it, it should be just as reliable as any other motor. i have two friends with a ls/vtec and a b20/vtec and both are still running strong. they both seldom ever lose a street race either.
 

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sol_ryda said:
I'm in the same boat as you, going LS/VTEC in my Rex. But anyways, why did you choose ITR pistons and LS rods instead of Eagle and JE? Keep in mind that the B18C1/C5 also share 1.5 r/s ratios and they rev 8000+ all day long. But it's probebly due to lubrication and the block girdle.
B18c1/c5 have a r/s ratio of 1.58 and B18a/b has a 1.54. Honda Increased the r/s ration on the c1/c5 for that reason. It's not a significant increase, but enough. Plus the c5 has a reinforced block i believe, and is balanced. Also, the pistons in the ITR have a coating on them to allow for less friction and easier revving. Hand built from the factory. Big difference from a mass produced block with a greater % of impurities.
 

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nitaira said:
well if it was such a bad idea, i don't think the ls/vtec and the b20/vtec would be so popular. as long as you build it right and take care of it, it should be just as reliable as any other motor. i have two friends with a ls/vtec and a b20/vtec and both are still running strong. they both seldom ever lose a street race either.
It's not a horrible idea, but it is pretty hard to get rite. If done rite then the benefits are incredible. However, there is A LOT of attention to detail and you have to know the motor in and out to take care of it. Not many people can fix stuff that goes wrong with it. It's a learning experience until you get it rite. It's all about if you have the money to screwing shit up while learning. I heard plenty of stories having no problems, but at the same time i hear more about all the horror stories. It can go either way.
 

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88 rex said:
B18c1/c5 have a r/s ratio of 1.58 and B18a/b has a 1.54. Honda Increased the r/s ration on the c1/c5 for that reason. It's not a significant increase, but enough. Plus the c5 has a reinforced block i believe, and is balanced. Also, the pistons in the ITR have a coating on them to allow for less friction and easier revving. Hand built from the factory. Big difference from a mass produced block with a greater % of impurities.
I agree with some of your points, but I can see .04 of a difference between the B18B1 and B18C1/5 enough to rev from 6750rpm to 8200rpm. Every motor from Honda should come balanced, maybe you ment blueprinted. I think Honda is getting away with it through oil squirters, Metallurgy, lubrication systems, and block girdle. Most of these methods can be adapted to a B18B block.
 

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not every motor from honda comes balanced. balancing a motor means that you weigh one of every part in the motor's rotating mass and then match that set to three other parts that are of the same weight. ie you find one rod, one piston, one intake/exhaust valve, one intake/exhaust spring, ect. ect. this is a very expensive process to go through.
it also allows a motor to rev cleaner and faster than a motor that is not balanced. however when you balance a motor you generally also take the time to blueprint the motor. this is where you measure and match all of the tolerances of your motor to one another. generally the difference is that with the block of a motor that's balanced and blueprinted you can spin freely with your hand while the motor that is not balanced and blueprinted will not spin at all...
 

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5gencivic said:
not every motor from honda comes balanced. balancing a motor means that you weigh one of every part in the motor's rotating mass and then match that set to three other parts that are of the same weight. ie you find one rod, one piston, one intake/exhaust valve, one intake/exhaust spring, ect. ect. this is a very expensive process to go through.
it also allows a motor to rev cleaner and faster than a motor that is not balanced. however when you balance a motor you generally also take the time to blueprint the motor. this is where you measure and match all of the tolerances of your motor to one another. generally the difference is that with the block of a motor that's balanced and blueprinted you can spin freely with your hand while the motor that is not balanced and blueprinted will not spin at all...
 

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Okay I see what your saying now. I thought when you said balancing you were just refering to the bottom end(pistons, rods, crank, and flywheel) which is what you do on a build up or overhaul, but you mean the entire motor. I never knew Honda did this to the C5.
 

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it's not the real expensive version of a balance and blueprint. rather they make sure that every part they are using is within a closer spec than parts used on say the b18c1. also the motor is built by hand, not by machine, so the tolerances are paid very close attention. not the slightest detail is over looked and everything is checked atleast twice.
 
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