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Discussion Starter #1
ok this is the story, my brother has a CRX with a B16 and it has about 4 thousand dollars of work invested into it, we got alot of hook ups on parts also, so say it has around 5-6 thousand $ worth of engine work........ it has a decked block and a decked head and it has 11.6:1 compression just on the pistons that he has, so his compression is prob around 12 something to 1 or higher??? i dont know.....
but the problem is he has put about 5 diffrent headgaskets because they keep letting coolent out everytime we start the car and coolent runs everywhere from the head, and the oil turns milky cause of the mixture!! he also took the racing head out and put the stock one back on thinking maybe the head was warped or something, but it still does the same thing.......
also to show how shaved the head was, the pistons bent the spark plugs, so we got shorter spark plugs they are still fine, no bends on them.... but thats just to show how shaved the head and the block is, we dont think the block is warped, were just thinking maybe the engine has too much compression and that may be the cause of the headgaskets going all the time, we still havent even driven the car!!!! it is so annoying!!! we have so much power under the hood, and no way of releasing it!!! please help and tell me how we can fix this problem of blowing all these headgaskets, my brother is at the point of thinking of migwelding the head to the block, lol........ please help!!!!
 

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ok i think i got it and when u replaced the head did u buy new headbolts? or reuse the stock ones???? if u reused em thats ur problem honda headbolts stretch...u should buy arp headstuds and that will solve ur problems
 

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also how much did u deck the block?? cuz maybe ur sleeves are now higher than the block..causing ur head to not set properly..
 

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did you put the gaskets on the right way?
 

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Head studs sound like a good idea to me.

I was just talking to a couple guys at work today about reattaching a head to a block. They both agreed that when you put it on you have to use a torque wrench, and then tighten the bolts down in the proper sequence for a total of 3 rounds.

Lets say you've got the bolts snug on there. Lets also pretend that you have to use 95 lb/ft of torque. The first time you do your rounds on the bolts start by torquing at about 30 lb/ft. Then the next cycle around on the head bolts go to about 60 lb/ft. The last time around tighten it at the specified torque and don't over do any one more than another.

Have you tried a 1mm steel head gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
actually my brother did buy ARP head studs....... yes we did put the headgasket on the right way, we've done engine swaps and head swaps many times, its just this time its not going right!!! my brother thought maybe the stock headgasket wasnt good enough so he bought i believe a Greddy head gasket, or some big name headgasket... (forget the name)

this might be the onlything i can think of that may be wrong with it, that you guys mentioned.....
also how much did u deck the block?? cuz maybe ur sleeves are now higher than the block..causing ur head to not set properly..
but i dont know how much the block was decked, the machine shop did it, and i dont know if they said how much they were doing..... ill talk to my brother after when he gets home from work to ask him.... but keep up your suggestions on what you think it may be, thanks!!
 

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This one's easy! First, are you aware of the fact that the headstuds are only made for the B18's, thus requiring the use of an additional set of washers underneath the supplied set to properly set the head on a B16. Additionally, if you shaved both the head and the block, guess what, you're going to need some more washers because you have effectively shortened the distance the head studs need to cover. Don't be fooled, you can use a torque wrench, and torque it to spec or beyond, but all that is really happening is you're bottoming out the nut on the threads on top, and bottoming out the threads on bottom.:)
 
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