i'm thining of getting a flywheel since i'm getting my clutch change but i'm thinking of getting a fidanza flywheel and clutchmaster or shave my stock one to 14 lbs. which one well be better cause i heard that fidanza crack or stuff. just wonder that if you ppl hear anything that is. i'm not sure about what material fidanza is made out of. thanks for any inputs.
HELP!! fidanza or clutchmasters or shave stock flywheel
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get the CM one. There's such a huge difference in acceleration and throttle response. don't get your stock flywheel shaved. it's not meant to be thinner than it already is. it won't dissapate heat properly and it's a waste of money because it'll never be as strong or as light as the CM one. don't get a chromoly one, those are pretty much for straight up race applications. they are bad on your starter motor teeth and they're pretty brittle so they're prone to crack and explode and sever brake lines or steering connections or something terrible like that. go with the CM one
actually both the fidanza and the clutchmasters flywheel are the same, both made by fidanza... they are made out of aluminum, and weigh about 8 pounds (dont know the exact weight)...
i know many people that have opted for the fidanza with excellent results, furthermore, i have never heard of a fidanza flywheel breaking on a prelude...
i would definetely not recommend you shave your stock flywheel...
i know many people that have opted for the fidanza with excellent results, furthermore, i have never heard of a fidanza flywheel breaking on a prelude...
i would definetely not recommend you shave your stock flywheel...
since i own a jun chromoly flywheel, i felt obligated to respond... the jun fw are certainly not for race only applications... jun offers both a 13 lb and an 11 lb fw, both of which are very streetable, much more so than a fidanza or a clutchmasters...PreludeSI said:
ive had my jun in the car for over a year now, absolutely no problems with my starter... to the best of my knowledge, it was only gsr's that had the problem with the light (not the ultralight) jun... even if there was a problem with the starter, the teeth on the starter can be shaved to make a good match with the fw... this should eliminate the problem...
even though im sure the possibility is there, i have never, ever heard of a jun flywheel exploding or cracking... on the other hand, i know of two cracked clutchmaster fw... a good buddy of mine that is a mechanic at a shop, has pictures, i will post as soon as i can get my hands on them...
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I got the ACT one , either way 15lbs is too light. You should only drop maybe 15% of the weight.
Also note some drag-cars actually add weight to the flywheel. Only high rpm course racing will really benefit.....in stop and go situations the youll find it a bitch to get moving....it also makes it hard to get a proper launch at the 1/4 mile....as well as messes with driveability. Youll find rev-matching is a lot harder , revs drop real fast......and im pretty sure driving uphill with a lightweight flywheel is worse on acceleration......
But it would be an overal weight drop on the front of the chassis right over the suspension no less....which will improve responsiveness a good amount
It sure is a toss up....
Also note some drag-cars actually add weight to the flywheel. Only high rpm course racing will really benefit.....in stop and go situations the youll find it a bitch to get moving....it also makes it hard to get a proper launch at the 1/4 mile....as well as messes with driveability. Youll find rev-matching is a lot harder , revs drop real fast......and im pretty sure driving uphill with a lightweight flywheel is worse on acceleration......
But it would be an overal weight drop on the front of the chassis right over the suspension no less....which will improve responsiveness a good amount
It sure is a toss up....
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I'll tell you what I tell everyone who brings it up. It's a BAD idea to lighten a stock flywheel. The flywheel was designed for it's maximum strength in that size and form. You take part of it it away and you're tampering with a purposeful design.
1 - If they don't remove the exact same amount of material from all sides evenly, it will spin off-balance. Even if it's less than 1 MM, it could cause problems, especially at 7000+ RPM
2 - You're compromising the structural integrity of it by effectively making it thinner and/ or disturbing the balance of weight.
This is something I feel pretty strongly about, cuz I always hear people talking about how lightened flywheels aren't worth the money. If you're serious about your car, they ARE worth the money, because they're redesigned to be as strong or stronger than a stock flywheel, only lighter. Ok, I'm done ranting now...
1 - If they don't remove the exact same amount of material from all sides evenly, it will spin off-balance. Even if it's less than 1 MM, it could cause problems, especially at 7000+ RPM
2 - You're compromising the structural integrity of it by effectively making it thinner and/ or disturbing the balance of weight.
This is something I feel pretty strongly about, cuz I always hear people talking about how lightened flywheels aren't worth the money. If you're serious about your car, they ARE worth the money, because they're redesigned to be as strong or stronger than a stock flywheel, only lighter. Ok, I'm done ranting now...
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Just want to add in that I've been driving with my shaved factory flywheel for a couple of years now. Nothing errant to my knowledge, feels just fine when accelerating. I'm sure there are horror stories about shaving your factory flywheel, just as there are horror stories about aluminum flywheels shattering. Just take it to a machine shop that knows what they're doing and there shouldn't be a problem.
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not that i dont believe you but aluminum doesnt crack it bends.. chromoly on the other hand does crack...ALTERED4 said:
i believe more in the aluminum flywheels but that is just me.. there are various pros and cons to both...
that is exactly why i didnt go with a fidanza... since the car is primarily a stip car, having a fw that is too light can hurt your launches...mike_sho said:
my jun feels almost stock-like... the engine revs up easier, but other than that, i notice no other side-effects... revs dont drop any faster, no problems at stoplights or uphills, the only reason stop and go traffic might have been a bit more difficult for me at first is that i have a 6 puck metallic clutch...
btw, just so that everybody knows, act stopped making flywheels a while back... actually, they were lightened oem...
mike_sho, i have the CM one and i barely noticed a difference in driveability. in stop and go situations, i haveno problem getting a nice smooth launch and getting going. Rev matching is not a problem at all. i shift and get it over with and it's always a spot on match; my car never jerks between shifts. i don't know what you're talking about. high rpm track racing does benefit from a heavier flywheel because heavier flywheels carry more kinetic energy.
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that is not necessarily true dude.... only in high hp cars sometimes can that be true... saying whta you said would be saying that having 20" rims would give you a better high end..PreludeSI said:
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