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Discussion Starter #1
So my stock clutch took a crap on me and I need it done asap so I'm willing to take it to a shop and fork up the money.. I took it to "O great HONDA" and they want $1700:lol2 to fix it which i would have to be plain dumb to do that. So i found a shop that will do it for a reasonable price. so now I"m looking at clutch's online and i came across a stage 3 XTD clutch for an okay price.. anyone ever had one or know someone who has used this brand... are they reliable or junk????? So far the reviews ive found on forums has been mixed feelings. Any help would be great..!!!
 

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I have an XTD clutch on my 98 civic. My car has a fully built engine and the clutch has been great for me. Then again I don't get on to to often and I try not to use my car as a daily driver as the clutch is a little tough to get around as other 6 pluck clutches would be. I guess it would depend on how tolerable you would be if your planning to use it as a DD.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ive been looking online and its all mixed reviews. So far its been only good for their stage 3 or higher clutchs. I dont plan on doing any performance mods to my car in the near future because im having a baby.. so would a stage 3 be kinda stupid to go with since im not really pushing much hp and its my DD.. honda had the sotck clutch for around $160 but now since im not having them fix it theyre been d***s aboput it and telling me they cant get the part unless theyre working on it...LMFAO
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yea i think im gonna try the xtd stage 3. its a pretty good price. i thought of goin with exedy, but had the same mixed reviews with them. and theyre around the same price as the xtd for just an oe replacement
 

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Rockauto.com look at the kits they got. Get a stock
replacement. Save money.

Organic disk or kevlar/kev re-enforced disk. While your there you should resurface the flywheel, it's not a must but it helps break in the new clutch disk faster.

Make sure you get a friction disk WITH the springs! AKA A sprung disk/clutch. Don't just buy up any "stage" bs you see.

A pro shouldn't take more than 8hours max from start to finish. I personally don't trust shops these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Would the stage 3 clutch with the stock flywheel(re-surfaced) be okay for a DD.? I only have i/h/e. i read on some threads that if your not pushing 250hp+ that its not good for your trans or something over time
 

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Would the stage 3 clutch with the stock flywheel(re-surfaced) be okay for a DD.? I only have i/h/e. i read on some threads that if your not pushing 250hp+ that its not good for your trans or something over time

Unsprung disks are rough and very well could cause a lot more shock loading on your transmission. Make sure the friction disk you choose has springs in it. Your car has a hydraulic clutch, pedal pressure increase will be almost non-existant.

Search locally how much someone will charge you for a resurfacing job. Weigh that against buying a new OEM flywheel or even a clutch/flywheel combo. Possibly a lightweight one where the friction surface area is replaceable. This is nice for future changes, buy a new friction disk and hardware, no resurfacing needed.

Doing the job yourself really isn't that hard if you have the tools and a couple mechanicly inclined frineds. All you really need is a haynes manual. Heck some of the Honda shop manuals can be downloaded from the Internet. Links are in the stickies.
 

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Would the stage 3 clutch with the stock flywheel(re-surfaced) be okay for a DD.? I only have i/h/e. i read on some threads that if your not pushing 250hp+ that its not good for your trans or something over time
The thing to watch is this clutch can eat the flywheel because its copper ceramic, Basically it'll half the surface life, also more friction means more heat which in turn can make them glaze over real fast if not ran in correctly.

As for the flywheel, because its lightweight you can loose torque.
You need more revs to set off and have less engine braking, but because of the loss of inertia your engine will pick up way quicker, like way quicker!

At this point it's up to you, your car will never be the same if you fit this flywheel but you'll get used to it (changing down on hills you didn't have to before and more revs on hill starts)
But the gains also can be fantastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i ended up just going with a stage 2. just to be on the safe side and resurfaced my stock flywheel
 

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As for the flywheel, because its lightweight you loose momentary inertia but gain torque.
You need more revs to set off and have less engine braking, but because of the loss of inertia your engine will pick up way quicker, like way quicker!

At this point it's up to you, your car will never be the same if you fit this flywheel but you'll get used to it (changing down on hills you didn't have to before and more revs on hill starts)
But the gains also can be fantastic.
Fixed:D As for engine braking that depends on the displacement, compression ratio, exhaust backpressure of the system and vacuum from the TB being closed more than flywheel weight.
 

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Fixed:D As for engine braking that depends on the displacement, compression ratio, exhaust backpressure of the system and vacuum from the TB being closed more than flywheel weight.
Your way sounds better :D
But when you change down they do seem to take ages to slow compared to a normal weight flywheel :(
 

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Your way sounds better :D
But when you change down they do seem to take ages to slow compared to a normal weight flywheel :(

I know what you mean. However what your thinking about is again the loss of that inertia, or in a different view, the ease of accelerating the engine has an affect on how gearing down the car feels. They should both slow down at about the same rate. Though the heavier flywheel will make the car slow down much more quickly at first until the engine speed is matched from fully engauging the clutch.

My friends 626 went down in flywheel weight by almost 17 lbs and gearing down was identical when I drove it. Though I tend to maticulously rev match, but from idle rpm dropping it into a gear that would have to increase to 6k to match speed there's a huge difference until the engine reaches fully matched rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Figured I would thro a quick update out there. Clutch has around 1k on it and is holding up strong, clutch pedal feel was different at first but seemed to stiffen a little more over time, grips like crazy :) . I went with a stg2 from f1 racing, after reading more reviews I saw more good from the f1 than the xtd and price was the same. But if clutch holds up like I hope then i wouldn't look past them for future clutches when strappd for cash
 

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Thanks for the update/feed back, people normally just ask a question then disappear.
I was looking at an F1 clutch/fidanza flywheel combo pack, i just may do it now :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yea its holding up pretty good. I had a stage II zoom clutch in my old talon, and the grab was no were near as good as this clutch. I don't romp on my car everyday, but when i do open it up i definitely cant complain.....:D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well its coming up on a year now on this clutch and i must say it has held up alot better than i thought it would being that it was an ebay clutch.. The grab i still the same as the day it got installed. Seem slike the pedal presure has gotten a little stiffer in the last few months tho, but beside's that it has been a great clutch... Yea i was skeptical when buying it since it was only like $130 thinking that this thing would last about 3 months, but i honestly dont have any complaints.... So for anyone on a budget and looking for a decent clutch for cheap this is your way to go.
 
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