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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished lowering the front of my car and I am fixing to start on the rear. I used eibach sportline springs and kyb agx shocks. i had a fiew questions i ran into.

1. when tightening the locking nut that goes on top of the whole shock assembly, do you stop tightening it when the shock rod start to turn? On the stock shocks it has a hex wrench slot to hold it in place but my kyb's don't b/c they have an adjustment dial where the hex slot would be.

2. When i got done, i "fingered my ride" to see how much it dropped it. it still has about a three finger gap. on the passanger side tho, i can get all three fingers in loosely w/ ease but on the drivers side it's more of a tight cramped fit with all three fingers. is this normal to have one side just a tad lower than the other?

Please fill me in asap as i need to finish the job by tonight hopefully. thanks
 

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superman7890 said:
I just finished lowering the front of my car and I am fixing to start on the rear. I used eibach sportline springs and kyb agx shocks. i had a fiew questions i ran into.

1. when tightening the locking nut that goes on top of the whole shock assembly, do you stop tightening it when the shock rod start to turn? On the stock shocks it has a hex wrench slot to hold it in place but my kyb's don't b/c they have an adjustment dial where the hex slot would be.

2. When i got done, i "fingered my ride" to see how much it dropped it. it still has about a three finger gap. on the passanger side tho, i can get all three fingers in loosely w/ ease but on the drivers side it's more of a tight cramped fit with all three fingers. is this normal to have one side just a tad lower than the other?

Please fill me in asap as i need to finish the job by tonight hopefully. thanks

1.. you have to tighten that bolt down.. there should be 2 sides shaved down on the shaft so you can wrench it down... know what im saying

2.. did you cut your bumpstops? did you put everything back the same way you took it apart?
 

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Need to shave the inside of the fender well the upper control arm is going to hit with a 2" drop cut the front stops 40mm dont cut the rear and get a camber kit
 

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jfish68 said:
Need to shave the inside of the fender well the upper control arm is going to hit with a 2" drop cut the front stops 40mm dont cut the rear and get a camber kit
my old accord was dropped more than 2 inches and i never had a problem with the fender well and the upper control arm :confused

and anyways... sportlines only drop a car 1.5" or so
 

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Discussion Starter #5
TSXmike said:
1.. you have to tighten that bolt down.. there should be 2 sides shaved down on the shaft so you can wrench it down... know what im saying

2.. did you cut your bumpstops? did you put everything back the same way you took it apart?

I cut my bump stops

:eek i didn't know what that shaved part was for!! i just tightened it as tight as i could until the shaft turned. do i need to take it back off tomorrow and redo it??

When I started doing my rear suspension, i couldn't break the flange bolt loose. that thing was tight as a mo fo. i think i will just let a local shop finish the rest b/c i've been in my garage ALL DAY!
 

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superman7890 said:
I cut my bump stops

:eek i didn't know what that shaved part was for!! i just tightened it as tight as i could until the shaft turned. do i need to take it back off tomorrow and redo it??

When I started doing my rear suspension, i couldn't break the flange bolt loose. that thing was tight as a mo fo. i think i will just let a local shop finish the rest b/c i've been in my garage ALL DAY!
you need to those bolts down... ill take pics of my g/fs car(my old accord) to show you what i mean... i might even take the pics later if i feel like going outside....

now the bolts taht you couldnt break loose... were those the lower control arm bolts... at the bottem of the strut???
 

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I have AGXs and on top of the rod, the sides are shaved off so you can grab it with a very small wrench. I have mine lowered more then yours and i had no problem with it hitting the fender wall, I needed camber kits though. The drivers side is lower becuase there is more weight on it, proven to be true with fatter people :lol2 . The springs need to settle, this may take a few weeks, even months. Check out my SIG, that side has a bigger gap then the other one but now its all good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
TSXmike said:
you need to those bolts down... ill take pics of my g/fs car(my old accord) to show you what i mean... i might even take the pics later if i feel like going outside....

now the bolts taht you couldnt break loose... were those the lower control arm bolts... at the bottem of the strut???

would it be possible just to tighten it from the engine bay then, w/o taking the whole assembly on the way back out? cuz damn that would be a bitch!!

yeah its the bolts on the control arm. i just tried the driver side since i couldn't get it loose i didn't even try the other side b/c i didn't wanna have one side lowered and the other side look like a f250.
 

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superman7890 said:
would it be possible just to tighten it from the engine bay then, w/o taking the whole assembly on the way back out? cuz damn that would be a bitch!!

yeah its the bolts on the control arm. i just tried the driver side since i couldn't get it loose i didn't even try the other side b/c i didn't wanna have one side lowered and the other side look like a f250.
you might be able to get away with tightening them from inside the engine bay... just be careful when you do... and take the front off the ground to take the pressure off the struts b4 trying this...

for the LCA bolts... you might be fucked... when i did mine... the bolts were rusted tight to the bushing... so i ended up driving around with the front of the car lowered for a few months... just dont apply excessive force... you could end up breaking the head of the bolt off and fucking yourself even more...

what i would suggest.. is following whats in the link provided...

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161736&highlight=LCA+bolt

i wish i wouldve seen this link when i first did my car.. wouldve saved me a hell of a headache
 

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Discussion Starter #10
TSXmike said:
you might be able to get away with tightening them from inside the engine bay... just be careful when you do... and take the front off the ground to take the pressure off the struts b4 trying this...

if i take the front off the ground and jack up the lower control arm to relieve more pressure will that work better? as for the rears i'm just going to take it to a shop and let them use their impact gun. i have to have it aligned also so it will be going to the show anyway. I might also have them look over the work i did n make sure its ok. being the first time i've ever attempted anything like this makes me sorta skeptical.
 

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1 - On the Tokico Illuminas you can put the allen wrench in to tighten the shock, and then two little plastic peices go in afterwards and you can turn them with a screw driver. KYB should be the same .. if not .. once the cars lowered, tighten them them b/c the car will put the push down on the spring for you to tighten easily.

2 - could be where your parked. try backing into the same spot and measure. I had sportlines and it seemed like that too.. esp. if you have sway bars ...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Everything is cool now...I got the fronts tightened although they just needed to be tightened a tad bit more than they already were. I'm having a local shop go ahead and put the rear setup in tomorrow for around $80-100. They should be able to get the lower control arm bolt off a lot easier than I did-they have more/better tools and plus I won't have to waste another 1/2 of my day. I'm also having them glance over the job I did on the fronts just to double check my work. Now I need to be looking into a camber kit. Does anyone have any advise/expierence w/ them? I heard I probabally only need it for the front.

They are different kinds/brands of camber kits, which one would be best for my application (Eibach Sportlines,KYB Agx's)?[preferablly a reasonable price]
 

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superman7890 said:
They are different kinds/brands of camber kits, which one would be best for my application (Eibach Sportlines,KYB Agx's)?[preferablly a reasonable price]

ingalls or spc make great camber kits
 

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Discussion Starter #19
TSXmike said:
ingalls or spc make great camber kits
should I also go ahead and get my car aligned tomorrow to see how many degrees its off before I go getting a camber kit?

jfish68 said:
Ingalls are good i went with the smart arm for the rear. what year is your car?
97 accord... what did you use for the front?
 

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superman7890 said:
should I also go ahead and get my car aligned tomorrow to see how many degrees its off before I go getting a camber kit?
you can do that if you want... its really up to you
 
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