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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was performing a tune up on my D16Z6 motor and when I pulled the number 4 spark plug boot the very bottom of it broke off. That is right...the very tip of the plug boot is now wedged into my spark plug bore. Is there anything I can do?
I have already pulled the valve cover but that didn't give me any more access than I already had. I have been able to pick out a bit of the plug boot with a pair of needle nose pliers and a long shafted screw driver. Is there any other way to get at the plug boot?

I don't want to have to pull the head to get at the boot but I cannot get a socket around the bolt end of the plug to screw it out. Also, I am afraid that if I can pull the plug....please GOD!!! Then will the boot material fall into the plug hole and jack up my engine?

HELP HELP HELP HELP>>>>:eek2
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well nobody posted to help me out. So, I assume that everybody is at work or no one knows what I am saying or how to help.
I went to sears and they sell a set of long wire tools that have hooks on the ends of them. One with a 45 degree hook, one with 25 degree, 90 degree, a simple s bend, and a straight one. It cost me $14.99 for the set. I used those with some WD40 and after about an hour I got the plug out. I don't know if any crud got into my cylinders through the spark plug hole...but oh well. Unless I removed the head I wouldn't have gotten the plug out without some dirt or crud getting in.

So, if you have any advice about how to clean the cylinder out without removing the head I guess this issue is solved.
 

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This happened to me before, go to Auto Zone or Pep Boys or somewhere like that. They have this tool set (don't know what it's called) has a handle like a regular screw driver just smaller and a long skinny rod coming out of it with the end curved at an angle. (They usually come in set of 4 with different types of ends... i.e: hooks. just an angle, straight needle, etc)
Don't use pliers or screw drivers..you do not want to damage the threads where the spark plugs screw in. Since the boots are rubber the hooks just go through, then you can carefully pull it out with some time without damaging the threads.

OH yeah! When you are replacing the Spark Plugs....make sure this time you put some boot protector on the new boots and spark plug comound (think thats what its called) on the spark plugs before replacement. This will help it come out easily during the next tune up and also the spark plugs won't get stuck in the socket. It will be easy to remove next time. I also learned the hard way, then I got myself a Haynes Manual lol :) Hope this helps. Good Luck

OOOOOOOHHHHHH! SHOULD HAVE READ YOUR SECOND POST LOL!


The cylinders I am not 100% sure if this will work but, do an oil change...before the oil change get that suff which basically is kerosine....(if you take this in printed out to the shop, they will know what I am talking about) you pour it into the warm engine, into where the engine oil is and run it idle for about 15 mins then drain the oil and change the filter. It basically dissolves all the crud inside the engine and brings it all out with the oil when you drain it. Then just put a new filter on and new engine oil.


It's called engine flush! WELL: I am gonna go to sleep now, 2:39 am here in PA, you have no clue how many times I edited this post just for spelling mistakes cuz I am falling asleep. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the advice. I purchased the tools and was able to get the plug boot off. I will replace the boots and put some ?dielectic? grease on them to prevent the boot from sticking. In this particular case the boot didn't so much stick to the plug as break apart inside the plug tube. It appears that these boots were the original parts that came with the car. As far as I can tell they were never replaced in the 103,000 miles that the owner actually had the car.

So, I will replace them with good quality stuff and do it right.
As far as the engine cleaner I will have to look in to that. I am afraid that I may have gotten some gunk into the cylinder while I was pulling the fragments from the spark plug boot out of the engine. I hope that 1. the heat from compression 2. the small size of particles and 3. the strength of the pistons and cylinder walls will allow whatever may have sneaked in to be destroyed without any real damage.

If not, I will have to take the old engine out and put my new engine in long before I wanted too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got some Accel spark plug wires. I haven't installed them yet but I am told that they are really high quality.

Does anybody know what the name is for the grease that you put into your spark plug holes to prevent binding of the plug boot?
 

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Spark Anti Seize Compound, comes in a small squeeze pack. Costs about $2.00 or $3.00 dollars and usually need only 1 pack.
You usually pick on of these up from the cashiers counter at the tools/parts shop. (Same idea as candy sales at Walmart. LOL :) )

ALSO like I have been told by countless people on this forum before, use OEM Honda Spark Plug wires/ ignition cables cuz they are usually better than aftermarket stuff...plus like I was also told...remember that Honda itself has a great Racing History, their stuff is usually as good if not better than most aftermarket stuff.
 

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A couple of little pieces of rubber down there won't be an issue. Don't bother to to do a flush on the oil since that wouldn't clean the same area. Don't worry about it too much as long as you don't leave the new wires down there for another decade they should be fine. It is actualy a fairly rare problem to have the boots tear like that and I wouldn't trust any of the compounds to be a benifit in the long term.
 
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