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i've hooked up subs in a lot of car before but i've never done it with a line out converter. i want to use my stock deck to do the set up. i have a few questions.

1) the grey wires coming from the LOC is the right speaker. the white wires is the left speaker. do i use the grey wires to tap into the right rear speakers and white wires to tap in the left rear speakers??

2) the remote wire...where do i hook this up??? if i hook it up to the battery the amp will stay on right? if i hook it up to an accessory switch what amp fuse should i use?

3) when hooking up the amp will i still have to hook up the 12v battery with the remote wire or will the remote wire provide the amp with power?
 

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1) the grey wires coming from the LOC is the right speaker. the white wires is the left speaker. do i use the grey wires to tap into the right rear speakers and white wires to tap in the left rear speakers??
I believe you have this correct. lol I don't see how it would be wrong.

2) the remote wire...where do i hook this up??? if i hook it up to the battery the amp will stay on right? if i hook it up to an accessory switch what amp fuse should i use?
Yes hooking it up to the battery will cause the amp to stay on.

You shouldn't need a fuse if you tap into the correct wiring as the gauge on that wire and the wire you tap into should be the same size, as such if it grounds out it should blow the fuse in the car.

Adding additional fuses in line are good for when your changing the wire size- example is like your 12V main fuse (100 amps?) if you tapped into that with a 18 gauge wire and did not fuse it then obviously you would have a problem if your 18 gauge wire grounded out. There's just no way that it could pull 100 amps. It would just get cherry red hot and catch your car on fire. Fuses protect wires from melting, if your remote wire is 20 gauge and your tapping into a 12 gauge wire you SHOULD fuse it. If the wire is the same size there is no need to fuse it because that wire is(or should be ) fused from the factory.


Check this out: Basic Car Audio Electronics - scroll down on the right to 14- fuses. have a good read and some images to illustrate :)

3) when hooking up the amp will i still have to hook up the 12v battery with the remote wire or will the remote wire provide the amp with power?
The remote wire is to turn on your amp when the ignition is on. You will need any 12V source that has power when the ignition key is in the acc/on position.
 

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Most converters from speaker wire to rca have a remote wire inbetween the rca cable output, if not the fuse box is the way to go, find a switch power and tie into it, jus becareful of the amps, and dont used the ignition fuse, will cause subs to blow
 

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Most converters from speaker wire to rca have a remote wire inbetween the rca cable output, if not the fuse box is the way to go, find a switch power and tie into it, jus becareful of the amps, and dont used the ignition fuse, will cause subs to blow
I would hope he's completed this already.


Why on earth would a converter have a remote wire or any source of power other than the audio signal it recieves from the head unit? It wouldn't. If it does , it shouldn't because that would mean it needs power to further modulate the signal and thus increase the chance for audio distortion.

The fuse box is a terrible place to choose a remote turn on wire. The remote wire should recieve power from the factory harness. Using the fuse box requires you to run extra lengths of wiring that is not needed.

How in the blue freaking blazes are the subs goi g to blow from any of this?!? Your logic needs work man. Go read BCAE1.com .
 
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