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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm installing a set of Sylvania Xenarc X1010 HID driving lights in my '97. They come with a wireless remote receiver and harness but i wanted to use a factory auxillary light switch for this install (nice to get rid of that ugly blank in the switch bezel also).

The '97 harness doesn't include a plug for aux lights so i got this cruise control switch pigtail. Had to trim down one of the plastic keys so it would mate with the switch. Used the service manual to figure out what each wire was for. It's a lot easier if you can just get a aux light pigtail to begin with but i'm cheap and didn't want to pay $40+ for a complete used bezel switch harness just to get the aux light pigtail.



Here's the pigtail plugged into the light switch:



One of the wires (pin 5/pin E) connects to a constant 12V spade connector in the dash fuse box:



I used 20/22 gauge quick splice connectors to tie into the cruise control ground (black), dash brightness control (red), and fuse #19 (red/black) wires. The wire for pin 2/pin B connects to position #85 on the HID light harness relay.



I got the relayed HID light harness from suvlights.com:



Did a test connection to make sure the switch works as wired:





Next i need to mount the lights in the grill.
 

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Nice Job doing it your self!!

Stereo Companies make Fire Wall Grommets to pass wires into the Engine Bay with Little or not Leakage into the cabin. Start There for Equipment. I've never been good with patients so good luck with the Wire harness...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK it looks like Spring is finally here so i was able to install my lights. Just remove a row of screws on top, two on the bottom, and one on each side of the bumper cover. The hardest part to install the light brackets was drilling one 1/4" hole on each side which took forever since the bumper metal is so hard.



Put the cover back on:





Install a ballast on each side. There are existing threaded holes so no need to drill any:





Will check the beam pattern tonight and adjust the lights as necessary.
 

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What drill/bit are you using that you had trouble getting through? All I've ever had to do is hit it with a punch (or screwdriver in a pinch), then drill a small pilot hole, then switch to the unibit.. and that's getting through frames, iron, whatever. Of course, I don't try to drill through thick stuff with cordless drills; which is why I ask what you were using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What drill/bit are you using that you had trouble getting through? All I've ever had to do is hit it with a punch (or screwdriver in a pinch), then drill a small pilot hole, then switch to the unibit.. and that's getting through frames, iron, whatever. Of course, I don't try to drill through thick stuff with cordless drills; which is why I ask what you were using.
I was using a fairly heavy-duty Makita corded drill starting with a small bit so i guess my bits are dull.

Here's a front view with low beams and HID driving lights on:



low beams only:



lows and driving lights together:



I'll check the beam pattern a couple more times before double-nutting the bolts that secure the brackets.

I did have to swap the wire i had connected to the #21 fuse to a constant 12V spade in the fuse box. Otherwise the driving lights go off and on as you toggle between your low and high beams and that's hard on HID bulbs. It also allows you to turn on the driving lights when the headlights are off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Good job btw. Too many ppl half-ass stuff like this. Props for doing it right.:btu
thanks Clayton.

now i have to remove the side glass so i can replace the run channel weatherstrip and polish the scratched glass. also need to mount my CD changer in the trunk, fix the remote trunk release, and replace the rear window and rear window glass run channel weatherstrips.
 

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Pics? Any questions you have about crap like that (not trying to insult your intelligence by assuming you'll have any; just saying IF), I'm a body guy, so I may have a little trick or tip.

What's wrong with the trunk release?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pics? Any questions you have about crap like that (not trying to insult your intelligence by assuming you'll have any; just saying IF), I'm a body guy, so I may have a little trick or tip.

What's wrong with the trunk release?
appreciate the offer - i may take you up on it.

so far the Helms/Honda manual seems pretty detailed but i've never taken glass out (and re-installed/adjusted it) before so we'll see how that goes.

the trunk release handle in the cabin only opens the trunk if you pull on it several times and sometimes not at all. maybe the cable is just stretched and needs to be replaced if there's no provision for adjusting it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You're replacing the rubber around the glass? It leaks?
Yeah i'm replacing a boat load of the weatherstripping including the $$$ piece at the rear of the top opening which is chewed up pretty badly on one side of the top section (not sure what happened there). Planning to get the car painted so i will wait on installing that and most of the rest of the weatherstrip.

The run channel weatherstrip for the rear window is distorted. I just replaced the windshield side molding pieces because they had a few 1" long chunks missing (from windshield replacement?).

I went overboard on buying the weatherstrip but i try to keep my cars for life and that's how i justify the expense. :)
 

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I feel ya. I was just trying to picture what exactly you're doing and reminiscing on how easy and how much of a royal pain the glass can be to mess with. Best of luck bro, and like I said if you run into anything, let us know.
 
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