Bigger battery under the hood for starters. Maybe an Optima. You could also look at www.batcap.net for a power reserve. Also, a bigger alternator could be an option for you. www.alterstart.com has some affordable units. www.powermaxx.com has some higher end comp-level alternators also. Try and stay away from standard caps, as they are way over rated, but the link above for batcaps is WELL WORTH checking out they make an AWESOME product.
Holy @#$%
I just finished installing my stereo. Its running about 1300 watts or so total (fronts and subs). I have a zapco studio 500 (1000 watts) running to my subs (2 12" diamond M5s), and the bass started to make me a little sick. The bass hits loud and low, but still needs some tuning.
All that aside, i have a severe voltage problem. My tach will drop down to 0 rpms when the bass hits, and my lights dim like crazy. I turned up my stereo while i was driving...doing about 50 mph....and the radio shut off because of the lack of power. What do you suggest i do to help remedy the voltage drop? I have 4 awg running from my batter to the back, stock alt, stock size batt, with no electrical upgrades.
All that aside, i have a severe voltage problem. My tach will drop down to 0 rpms when the bass hits, and my lights dim like crazy. I turned up my stereo while i was driving...doing about 50 mph....and the radio shut off because of the lack of power. What do you suggest i do to help remedy the voltage drop? I have 4 awg running from my batter to the back, stock alt, stock size batt, with no electrical upgrades.
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Cool thanks. Is the batcap more of a capacitor, or can it be run as a battery? I think i'm gonna look into the optima. Should i just get a yellow top as my primary battery? Will that work okay? Because, they say that its just for accessories.
I would say do the Red, since you probably won't be running your stereo with the engine off a Yellow isn't that much better. You could also think about adding a second battery in your trunk. As far as the bataps are concerned, they are like a cross between a cap an a battery, hence the name. They can't be used as a battery, but they work a lot better than a standard cap. Check out the site, and drop them an email, they are very helpful and if you ask them to explain the concept to you they will.
VTECnicalAccord, i've been looking around, and i think i might just get a yellow top to replace my stock batt. Do you think that just adding the yellow top, for right now, will help? I can't afford to get both tha batt, and the alternator right now, and i don't really want to get a cap until after the battery. I don't really have any other accessories, just my stereo, fog lights, and headlights. No power anything else. So would the yellow top be what I need?
Either the yellow or Red will help. It more than likely will not cure the problem by itself, but you have to start somewhere, and the battery is the best place to start.
for the love of god dont get pulleys
Who said anything about pulleys?LudeAction said:for the love of god dont get pulleys
All of you really think a yellow top will help more than just adding a cap?
It sounds to me like you could just add a cap or even two and it should fixe the problem... and it would be as much as getting an optima.
It sounds to me like you could just add a cap or even two and it should fixe the problem... and it would be as much as getting an optima.
Originally posted by dohctor
All of you really think a yellow top will help more than just adding a cap?
Originally posted by ME: Either the yellow or Red will help. It more than likely will not cure the problem by itself.
No, I really don't think it will cure the problem. Help, not cure.
All of you really think a yellow top will help more than just adding a cap?
Originally posted by ME: Either the yellow or Red will help. It more than likely will not cure the problem by itself.
No, I really don't think it will cure the problem. Help, not cure.
I'm not looking for the complet cure for the problem right now. I'm looking for what will help the most. the optima will probably be what helps me out the most, because i know that i need a bigger battery, bigger alternator, and then maybe a cap. But the optima will probably help me out more than the cap, because my current battery is almost 2 years old, and is a small piece the size of the stock battery. I know it takes more than just the quick fix, i just don't have the money to completely cure the problem right now.
u should look at just getting a nice big wall mart bat, they will cost less and work fine...... run 2 or 4g wire for the alt to your bat and upgrade all the grounds on the engine....... caps r a waste on money IMO, and for u if u buy a cap or 2 it will hert your electrical system more than anything........
your system sounds sweet....... i can wait till i get my 2 12" inhumans in my crx running off a phd2..... 2000wrms of raw (dirty) power
your system sounds sweet....... i can wait till i get my 2 12" inhumans in my crx running off a phd2..... 2000wrms of raw (dirty) power
71mgb...Why do you keep saying this, it is just outright WRONG...71 mgb said:caps r a waste on money IMO, and for u if u buy a cap or 2 it will hert your electrical system more than anything........
How will capacitors hurt your electrical system. Didn't we already have this conversation?
Capacitors are not a waste of money. Capacitors are used in just about every DC powersupply made, including your amplifiers (Yes, there are capacitors used in the power supply of your amplifier).
So why would adding a large capacitor external to your amplifier be bad? Please Explain...
1fast2dr
I think a capacitor would hurt your electrical system...especially mine...if it is being continuously drained and recharged. The continous use of the cap would mean that it would have to be recharged after each time the stored power is used. This would mean that the power would have to be pulled from the battery, which in turn would have to be charged by that alternator. Thus, putting an extra strain on an already weak electrical system.
That only would be true if i was discharging and charging the cap continously. Thats how the cap would hurt.
Correct me if i'm wrong, though.
That only would be true if i was discharging and charging the cap continously. Thats how the cap would hurt.
Correct me if i'm wrong, though.
sounds right to me...... i think the only way i would buy a cap is if i had aelectrical system that could suport my sytem fully, so i would use the cap to keep a constant voltage, so i would only use it for SQcrx4luke said:I think a capacitor would hurt your electrical system...especially mine...if it is being continuously drained and recharged. The continous use of the cap would mean that it would have to be recharged after each time the stored power is used. This would mean that the power would have to be pulled from the battery, which in turn would have to be charged by that alternator. Thus, putting an extra strain on an already weak electrical system.
That only would be true if i was discharging and charging the cap continously. Thats how the cap would hurt.
Correct me if i'm wrong, though.
The reason you use a capacitor is exactly what you said, to maintain a constant voltage. When the amplifier has a large sudden current draw(i.e. a bass note), the amplifier sucks current from alternator and then the battery. (In theory, the stock charging system should be able to run all electronic items in the car. When you add a large stereo to your car, you place extreme strain on the vehicles stock electrical system) Since your alternator cannot provide enough current for the stereo system and the vehicle, the voltage drops and you begin to draw from the battery.71 mgb said:
sounds right to me...... i think the only way i would buy a cap is if i had aelectrical system that could suport my sytem fully, so i would use the cap to keep a constant voltage, so i would only use it for SQ
The alternator in most vehicles runs from about 13.6V to around 14.4V with the vehicle running. You see the lights dim because the alternator cannot maintain the 13.6V-14.4 voltage when the amplifier draws a large amount of current. The voltage will drop to the idle level of a vehicles electrical system, approx 12V (the battery potential).
Here's where the capacitor comes in. The capacitors main purpose in a stereo system is to provide the current required when the amplifier suddenly draws a large amount of current on a bass note. Since a capacitor charges and discharges at a rate of 5 Tau (With Tau = RC time constant), most music notes will not drain the capacitor completely. If we assume that you have a resistance of 0.01 ohm for your power wire from the battery, and we use a 1 Farad capacitor, it is going to take 0.05 seconds to completely charge and discharge the capacitor (although it will not discharge at exactly this rate as the amplifier will be drawing current from the capacitor and alternator. This makes it more difficult for the amplifier to pull down the voltage of the electrical system). Then after the bass note is finished, the stock electrical system can gently charge the capacitor back up to its full potential.
This is why almost everyone who is having large drains on their electrical system due to an aftermarket stereo system adds a capacitor. Replacing your stock alternator is another option if you wish. You basically want a way that you can maintain the rated 13.5-14.4V with the vehicle running
Do as you wish, but I would suggest this, buy a 1 - 1.5 farad capacitor and be done with it. I can almost guarantee that your problem will dissapear.
Just my 02 cents
1fast2dr
capacitors suck ass. They only work for puny piece of shit systems. When you step up to the big boy league you need beefy alts and more batteries. Batteries are way better than caps and way cheaper. If you get any cap get the alumapro 15 farad cap. That's the only one that can hold 15,000 watts, but for like 400 you might as well but batteries for like $150 and a H.O. alt for like another $200, spend the other 50 on 0 gauge wire and call it a day, problem solved.
Sarcasm. It was all sarcasm.VTECnicalAccord said:Who said anything about pulleys?
If I were you, I would spend the extra money and get a second battery. My friend got a second battery and he is only hitting about 800 watts. Trust me. Works better than a little cap, a beefier alt, or a beefier battery. And its really not that hard to install.
to answer the original question:
vtecnical is right. start at your battery and work up. The more CCA the better. Then go to your alt. I'm assuming by your name that you drive a CRX, which prolly has a low amperage alternator. Beef it up to about 120 amps, and with a battery running 750-850 CCA, you'll definitely be feeling the benefits. The alternator you can prolly hold off on, but I think if you run that much power, you will eventually screw up the alt. bearings. Then just buy the high amp alternator. Happy BUMPin. g/l
vtecnical is right. start at your battery and work up. The more CCA the better. Then go to your alt. I'm assuming by your name that you drive a CRX, which prolly has a low amperage alternator. Beef it up to about 120 amps, and with a battery running 750-850 CCA, you'll definitely be feeling the benefits. The alternator you can prolly hold off on, but I think if you run that much power, you will eventually screw up the alt. bearings. Then just buy the high amp alternator. Happy BUMPin. g/l
do you guys realize how old this thread is?
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