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if i am running a 1000-1200 watts system, how many farads should i go with? i was thinking 1.5 farad or so. is having a bigger cap better?
 

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i would try running your system without one first, if you're getting lots of dimming while the car is movig than i would consider it. and i think 1 farad cap would be ok, but if you have the money to blow going bigger never hurts.
 

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I'm not a fan of caps. Most dimming can be fixed by setting the gains right. If you still have dimming then the problem is you need a bigger alt. Caps are just a bandaid, they only temporaly hide the problem.
 

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acuradriva said:
Caps are just a bandaid, they only temporaly hide the problem.
Well said skippy. I don't think caps are worth the cash whatsoever.
 

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VTECnicalAccord said:
Well said skippy. I don't think caps are worth the cash whatsoever.
yep caps are waisted money,if anything get a batcap and do the big three.
 

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ebay type in batcap

yes they are alot better than caps.Think about 100 1 farad caps with a footprint smaller than 1 1 farad cap.

plus they are more like a mini batt. rather than a cap
 

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if ur gettin dimming either upgrade ur alt or add an extra battery or upgrade the battery under the hood and do the big 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
csuho said:
if ur gettin dimming either upgrade ur alt or add an extra battery or upgrade the battery under the hood and do the big 3.
how do i add a second battery without blowing something up. i think i'm supposed to connect positive to positive and neg to neg (parallel), rather than series, am i correct?
 

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Don't just slap in another battery. What you want to do is try to get the exact same battery up front and back, yes that is including how old they are. If you get one that is much different than the other, one battery will try to pull power away from the other one.
 

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Caps do help, just depends on the setup, I would suggest a second battery first, you dont necessarily need a battery isolator or two equal batteries.

I have a 10 farad bank for my two 1000 watt Kicker SX900.4 amps, so that's roughly 1 farad per 200 watts, with no second battery my Teg does find.
 

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Caps are a band-aid.

Go to any audio forum and search,you will find they are a waist of time and money.

Do it right the first time......dont be a cheap ass
 

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first off you shouldn't be running a 1000W+ system without a upgraded charging system, but it basically works more efficient than a battery as it charges and discharges faster, haven't tried a batcap myself, but I've heard they are good, currently I've got Optima yellow top 2 1 farad rockford capacitors (make sure you get good capaciters like rockford, phoenixgold, monster as cheap capacitors aren't a true farad and are more like a half the capitance that they're rated for.) big 3 done, and new 4 guage running thru the entire system. The capaciters basically act as a buffer between the amp and normal bat-alt connections, they do make the bass hit a little harder and stop dimming as it's pulling power from them first before the bat and alt so they can save your alternator if you haven't upgraded it yet like I haven't, but my reccomendation for a true 1000W setup (not like wannabe brands claiming 1000s everywhere for cheap) would be a hoa and deep cycle battery, big 3 minimum. hoa, big 3, optima yellow top, one cap would be optimal. if you got the money for it and are serious about it, go all out for quality, they're not so much as a bandaid (although some people use it like that), as they are a part of a bigger more efficient and stable electrical system for your sound system.
 

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I strongly suggest that anyone with a honda invests in the Stinger SPV35 battery, its small enough to fit in the bay of a teg/civic and for about a 100 bucks, its the best battery performance wise you can get and fit under the hood without serious modification.

also redo all your engine grounds, honda is really bad about their grounds, ie engine to chassis ground.
 

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phathom said:
first off you shouldn't be running a 1000W+ system without a upgraded charging system, but it basically works more efficient than a battery as it charges and discharges faster, haven't tried a batcap myself, but I've heard they are good, currently I've got Optima yellow top 2 1 farad rockford capacitors (make sure you get good capaciters like rockford, phoenixgold, monster as cheap capacitors aren't a true farad and are more like a half the capitance that they're rated for.) big 3 done, and new 4 guage running thru the entire system. The capaciters basically act as a buffer between the amp and normal bat-alt connections, they do make the bass hit a little harder and stop dimming as it's pulling power from them first before the bat and alt so they can save your alternator if you haven't upgraded it yet like I haven't, but my reccomendation for a true 1000W setup (not like wannabe brands claiming 1000s everywhere for cheap) would be a hoa and deep cycle battery, big 3 minimum. hoa, big 3, optima yellow top, one cap would be optimal. if you got the money for it and are serious about it, go all out for quality, they're not so much as a bandaid (although some people use it like that), as they are a part of a bigger more efficient and stable electrical system for your sound system.
Not true.

Say you have a 1 farad cap ok that is good for 1000rms,you put it on a 1000 watt rms amp.Ok lets look at how fast a cap puts the reserved power out.

Say .0001 seconds(I dont know this to be true but just to use it as an example) anyway you got this power being pulled at .0001 seconds and then it gets replaced in the same amount of time.

Take a look at music now,were it is so bass heavy in all types of music well like that "If you dont give a damn,we dont give a fuck" song by young bloods and lil jon.You have a hard bass hit every 1.5 to 4 seconds.

Now we have a cap pulling and releasing power at .0002 seconds every time a amp pulls it's full rms which like I said is pretty damn often in music now.The power in the cap still has to be replaced by the battery so it dont solve the problem at all just delays it.This is why any real audio enthusiest you find will not have a cap cause it is a waist of money.It's like buying a cheap no name ebay header for your car cause it sounds better..........it may look better under the hood and it may sound better coming out the tail pipe but by no means does it do the job it is put there for.

I have had some pretty big ass systems in the past and never ran a cap,I had a 1984 Cadillac Deville with around 2500rms total and did the big 3 and upgraded to a optima battery and had no problems.

Do the big 3,add a good battery,and dont be a dumb ass and sit with your car off bumping for 30 minutes,if you have around 1000rms and do this but still have problems then your electrical system was in need of repair anyway so for the love of god dont go cheap to try and fix it with some cheap ass lil thing that will hide the problem.........fix it right
 

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I don't mean to be start a fight or anything, but caps have a purpose, otherwise, they wouldnt be making them.

As I said earlier they serve a purpose in the right situations, and as phathom said, they are benificial because they do discharge and charge quickly. You are not going to find a battery that does this.

Saying that they are a waste of money and that you wont find any real audio enthusiast with one, well im sorry but really sounds ignorant.

I have been competing for a decade now, in both USAC and IASCA. I have also been installing that long and have done countless vehicles that go to USAC world finals ever year.

Caps are not a cure for a bad electrical system. In that regards they are simply a band aid. But if you have a sound electrical system and add a cap, you are going to notice a drastic increase in the frequency response of you subs and a stable voltage going to your amps.

Unless you all have amps with regulated power supplies, I agree, caps are a waste of money, though I doubt everyone on here can afford an amp with one, so dont hate on something or the opinions of others.
 

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I am not hating

How is a cap going to give a better freq. response?

Freq. response has nothing to do with power as far as caps go,a lack of or surplus in power can not and will not alter freq. response in the slightest bit.It will change the ability of your system to play at the upper volumes but it has absolutly no berring on the reproduction of music notes at all.

A sub made to play down to 20hz will do so with 100rms or 1000rms aslong as the signal from the amplifier is not clipping.So freq response has everything to do with being able to build/adjust your system to the freq.'s that are needed or wanted.Now the thing is when you add more power you can hear the said freq better cause in a properly adjusted and built system with higher power given the equipment has the same efficientcy(sp) will be louder at any freq that is properly reproduced

Freq Response has everything to do with the products you choose and the quality of install/setup and nothing to do with the power the amps are getting
 

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All I am saying that your subs will be able to play lower frequencies more efficent, making them louder and "hit harder".

A subs frequency response is the audible frequencies that it plays, easily found using an RTA. Its a hellava lot harder and takes more power to make a sub play 30hz as loud as it plays 60hz. This is why most db drag vehicles burp between 50 and 60hz.

More than anything your enclosure has the most to do with frequency response, a sealed box with a Qts of 0.7 gives you the magical frequency response that audiophiles want. You can put a crappy Pyramid sub in an enclosure that will give the sub a 0.7 Qts and it will sound pretty tasty compared to a high level sub in a poorly designed sealed box.

In a ported enclosure its really hard to get a Qts of .7, and the frequency response is more easily effected by outside factors, such as a the ability of an amplifier to give it the amperage it needs when it needs it, making a cap benificial.
 
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