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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was changing out my timing belt on my swaped civic and i noticed that my timing belt tentioner not the pully but the hydrolic thing was very stiff and not adjusting at all. i think its bad is it suposed to be this stiff?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yea i did but then after i did that it would like decompress realy hard on the tention arm and i have a problem where the timing belt is rubbing on my balce shaft tensioner pulley.
 

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when you compressed the tensioner, did you use the correct clamp? did you accidentally slip the screwdriver when compressing the tensioner? because if you compress it fully and you slip the screwdriver and it will snap and then break internally.

you need to do this, compress the tensioner then brace it with the clamp on the correct side of the tensioner. place the tensioner back on and do not fully tighten it yet. put the belt on and align it, then when your done, pull the bracket off and tighten the mounting bolts and then rotate the crankshaft one full revolution, then recheck the alignment marks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i guess it broken then because my friend thats working on my car. took out the tentioner and we tightened it to till it went down and if we kept tightening it it would decompress fully and we did that more than 10 times. so do i need to get a new one now? and you say i need a clamp so like compress it with the screw driver not all the way then put it in this clamp remount it on the block then release this clamp when its mounted? Thanks for the help i realy need it im working on the car tomarro afternoon and need to figure out what parts i need. and also where can i get this clamp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yea sounds good its just that we have to have the car done by today to get it out of his garage.. but how would i go along doing this i realy want to convert it any info will help me and how long does it take to do? like to gather parts for it and so on. thanks
 

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by BustedLX from honda society:

Alright well this is basically a quick how-to of what's need to ditch your H22A's auto tensioner and swap to the H23A's manual tensioner. This cost in total about $140 to do which is a little more money then a new auto tensioner cost. The advantages are this tensioner is more reliable and there is no special tool required.

Parts REQUIRED are:

13404-PT0-004 - balancer belt adjuster
14510-PT0-004 - timing belt adjuster
14516-PT2-000 - adjuster spring
90014-P14-A00 - adjuster base bolt
90015-PT0-000 - adjuster spring bolt
90016-PT0-000 - adjuster bolt
90140-P14-A00 - 11mm washer
14521-P14-A00 - adjuster plate

All the other parts required can be reused from your H22A. I also changed however the fallowing three parts just to be anal.

90501-MB7-610 - washer
90216-P0A-000 - nut
90401-PT0-000 - rubber o-ring

Now I'm not going to go in detail about how to remove the timing belts and all that because if you don't know how to do that you shouldn't be doing this. I'm just going to show you where all the parts go and what it looks like when it's done.





The adjuster base bolt (90014-P14-A00) isn't shown installed in the picture because it was still out of stock when I took this picture.

Here is what it looks like all together:





That's all folks, The springs and actual tensioners are pretty self explanitory. Make sure you order all these parts prior to doing this! Don't take apart your engine and expect this stuff to be in stock at your local dealer. They will most likely have to order most of it and most will be back ordered.

Good luck and may the force be with you
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hell yea thanks alot yea im planning on doin this in a few weeks, saving up i might have to buy a sensor my cars throughing a code running in safe mode gotta pull the code hope its nuthing too big. but once again thanks alot and clean lude in your sign.
 
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