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BD said:
I followed these instructions for a compression check (it was good btw) but I'm just curious why the ignition system has to be disabled (the fuel system makes sense to me) because if all the plugs are out then why does it matter? The only reason I ask is that I'd like to avoid taking the cap and rotor off to take the leads off the ignition coil.

And if it is imperative to disable the ignition system, couldn't you remove a fuse or something instead? Thanks.

what kind of car are you testing?

you dont want the electricity from the plug wires arcing everywhere and frying things.
 

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ksniperfox said:
what kind of car are you testing?

you dont want the electricity from the plug wires arcing everywhere and frying things.
98 y7
 

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it is as simple as removing a fuse. on mine and other obd1 hondas there is a fusebox under the hood, the one labeled ECU is the one to remove. it will disable fuel and ignition. not sure about obd2s though.
 

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ksniperfox said:
it is as simple as removing a fuse. on mine and other obd1 hondas there is a fusebox under the hood, the one labeled ECU is the one to remove. it will disable fuel and ignition. not sure about obd2s though.
Thanks.

Nevermind, figured it out. I'm used to working on older carbed V8s which open the throttle when being cranked by default so blocking the throttle was not necessary.
 

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BD said:
Thanks.

Nevermind, figured it out. I'm used to working on older carbed V8s which open the throttle when being cranked by default so blocking the throttle was not necessary.

you should be performing compression tests with the throttle at WOT.
 

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B18C Specs

I was gonna do compression test on mine next week since Im taking my vacation. Anyone know the specs for a B18C? Only one I can find is from googling, and it says 200.


Engine is from a 96
 

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I have recently done a motor swap(b18a1) but the motor has been sittting for a while in a car out a junk yard,but only has 96,000 miles.Checked compression and each was drastickly different from eachother and low,im guessing that i need to recondition the rings but i havnt started it yet.I herd of an old trick that you can feel up the cylinders with transmission fluid and let it sit for a day or two, but i cant remember what kind of transmission fluid it was,and yes the guy was a machanic(good) just old school.
 

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This thread is old, and you could have started a new one.. but what the hell its a stickey isnt it?

After you run the motor for a while with some new fresh oil in it(around 500 miles) check compression again.

I've heard of people pouring lubricants and such in the cylns and hand cranking the engine, or with the starter with fuel/ignition disabled.

Everything from brake fluid, to alcohol, to seafoam or even acetone (and so on). Essentially what your doing there is getting a solvent around the rings to break up the gunk that may be on them from sitting for extended periods of time. Hell you could even use wd40 or pb blaster.

At any rate I'd just drive it for a while, some nice long drives with new fresh oil and maybe some fuel additive such as injector cleaner or lucas upper cyln lubricant.( though I perfer not to use lucas) Try fuel injector cleaner first and just driving, recheck every 100 hiles or so and see if theres improvements.

Also make sure that you correctly performed the test. I always stop after 5-7 ticks on the pressure gauge. reguardless what the number says or if its still going up. It should reach max levels by 7 full rotations.
 

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Yea i wish i could but cant get it started,lol, the motor is a b18a1 in a 96 civic(obd0 and a obd2) with a P75 computer and with the originall civic harness(not rigged or spliced,I did it right).Also the motor didnt have a CPS so i had to trick the computer to read the distributor. The car will turn over around 7 or 8 rev. then the fuel and fire will cut out like its a antitheft. But i am running it on a P75 out a 94 integra and its not suppose to have an anti-theft program according to SA Honda motor Swap(a how too book,got it just cause but did have so intresting facts).
 
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