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Here's a DIY, I suggest you verify EVERYTHING in my list BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANYTHING!!! I take no responsibility for you hurting or killing yourself or anyone else. As always, if you do this mod, you are responsible for the results. Please be safe!

Parts installed:

* 1995 Legend GS Sedan front calipers (including pad spring)
* 1995 Legend GS Sedan front caliper brackets (including pad retainers)
* 1995 Legend GS Sedan Brembo Blank rotors (28mm)
* Goodridge Stainless steel braided front brake lines

Tools used:

* 10mm wrench
* 12mm socket
* 14mm socket
* 17mm socket
* 19mm socket
* 1/4 and 3/4 ratchet
* rubber mallet
* impact driver
* 2 pairs of plyers (for those hard to access places)
* various extenders and adapters
* 6000 lbs jack
* jack stands
* heavy duty ZIP ties
* clippers (for zip ties)
* a couple of flat head screwdrivers
* a few small blocks of wood (for clamping to the calipers during bleeding)
* Plastic jar or pitcher (to catch brake fluid)
* bag of rags (to keep it clean)

Install time:
3 hours, with friend.

Preparations!

01) obtain all parts first!

02) make sure you have at least 2-3 hours of free time and a friend to help!

03) get a copy or printout of the appropriate pages of the Helms manual

04) gather all of the tools

05) Print out this DIY!!! =D

Break down!

06) loosen all 10 lugs on the front wheels

07) make sure parking break is up, car can be in or out of gear

08) jack up car (from the front) so the wheels are about 2-3 inches off of the ground

09) place jack stands behind front wheels, to support the jack and protect your life

10) double check all jacks and supports to make sure that everything is safe.

11) remove 10 lugs from front wheels, remove wheels (don't scratch your wheels!) You will now see the rotor, single piston caliper, bracket, and behind these the dust shield, rubber brake line, and suspension.

12) loosen and remove caliper bolts (2 behind the rotor)

13) zip tie caliper up to one of the supports for the suspension (not the spring) - Make sure you get it out of the way of the rest of your work, you will get back to this later.

14) remove, and place in a safe location, your brake pads.

15) loosen and remove the bracket bolts (2 more behind the rotor)

16) remove the caliper bracket and put it in a box

17) Using the impact driver, carefully pound and remove the 2 screws holding the brake rotor onto the hub.

18) remove the old brake rotor

19) unbolt brakeline from brake caliper, taking care to use a rag to avoid spillage

19b) cut ziptie holding old brake caliper, be careful the fluid does not spill! (plug the hole)

20) place end of brake line into the jar you brought to catch the brake fluid - let this drip here for a while, maybe 10 minutes.

Installation!

21) Install new Legend rotor taking care to align the screw holes. Don't use the impact driver to tighten the screws! wipe down rotor with a clean cloth.

22) Install legend caliper bracket

23) replace your brake pads in the bracket

24) mount the Legend caliper on the upper bolt only!

25) swing caliper upwards (to point the bleed bolt and nipple up

26) zip tie the caliper so it does not fall back down.

27) optional step Remove the rubber brake lines (2 bolts) and replace them with the Goodgridge (or other brand) Stainless steel lines,

28) Attach your brake lines to the Legend caliper, using the 2 washers from the old caliper.

At this point you should double check all of your work, make sure everything is snug, not tight, (though the brake line fittings should be tight). If you are doing one side at a time, now is the appropriate time to do the other side. You are now ready to bleed the brakes! congrats!

Bleeding!

For bleeding, make sure you bleed the ENTIRE system, front and back. I'm including two links to bleeding articles, so you have some background. Remember that you'll need to angle the calipers up.

29) Take those small blocks of wood and carefully wedge them into the calipers. you may need more than one block. I used 3, and zip tied them in place. Try to fill nearly the entire volume of the caliper. You don't want those pistons popping out!

30) Repeat as necessary!

31) remove the wood blocks from the calipers, and gently slide the calipers down over the pads. (This may be a little difficult to do, but if you filled most of the caliper with the wood block, it won't be too bad.)

32) Bolt the lower caliper bolt to the bracket, and tighten all bolts in the brake system that need tightening.

32a) Before mounting wheels, double check ALL of the brake bolts and screws! There are 2 screws in the rotor, 2 bolts on the caliper, 2 bolts on the bracket, and 1 bolt on the brake line.

33) mount your two front wheels

34) test the car in a parking lot. test it a LOT. at slow speeds. Don't exceed 15 miles per hour. Remove the wheels and triple check the brake bolts!

If your car performed well, take it up to traffic speeds of 25-35 miles per hour and try some gradual stops. If you have done everything right, the braking should feel better than it did before you began. Run the car for a day or two, TAKING IT EASY!!!, and then you may want to bleed the brakes again, just to be safe.

You are DONE!!
Congradulations and enjoy your new twin piston braking system!!! :D

If you have problems with the brakes, if they feel loose or unresponsive, then you still have air in the system. Go back to step 30, and bleed them again. Remember that while you are bleeding you need to build up brake pressure with the brake bleed bolt TIGHT. Once most of the air is out of the system, it will start to feel quite good!

Good luck guys! Remember to take is slow and cautious, and be safe! Your brakes are your life, be patient with the install and it will work out.
 

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Got any pics?
 

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VTECFREAK said:
This also works for 4th and 5th gen Accords, does it not?
I wonder the same myself...but all in all. My braking system works fine with drilled brembo rotors on the way and some simple aem brake pads. In fact its quite amazing if you ask me. If you can lock your tires at speed , your fine.

If these rotors are larger , your going to go slower in acceleration.

Another thing is slotted rotors are probably the best for braking , while drilled rotors are a bit lighter so you actually get a performance benefit.
 

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mike_sho said:
I wonder the same myself...but all in all. My braking system works fine with drilled brembo rotors on the way and some simple aem brake pads. In fact its quite amazing if you ask me. If you can lock your tires at speed , your fine.

If these rotors are larger , your going to go slower in acceleration.

Another thing is slotted rotors are probably the best for braking , while drilled rotors are a bit lighter so you actually get a performance benefit.
I was looking at this 5 lbs caliper brake kit ... anyone have had any experience with this kit or any in particular?

Check this out
 

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Freakin'H22A said:
I was looking at this 5 lbs caliper brake kit ... anyone have had any experience with this kit or any in particular?

Check this out
Massive overkill and a 5lb caliper isnt going to do anything except the suspension. Even then a stock rotor is 11.1 inches , this one is 13. That alone your going to see a big decrease in acceleration.

Like I said your stock system is probably adequate enough for most purposes. I use to take my car to like 120mph quite often and at the end of braking towards the last stretch before I returned back to zero mph it was fading bad.

A simple pad upgrade can be your #1 ticket to braking. As well if you want to go a step further some standard size performance rotors will also benefit you in brake fade and initial bite. Slotted etc etc.

If your looking for good braking these kits are truly pointless and made to only benefit them through profit. 1800 you could do quite a suspension and chassis setup , or add-on to the motor im sure. Theres so many things.

I dont like big brake kits on really any car. Even a 20k race purpose only drag car. Know why cause at those speeds those guys would still be trying to figure out how to get the most from the car and slapping on huge rotors is just a no-no for acceleration. It would only be needed when your going insane speeds and you litterally couldnt stop the car...therefore more of a safety thing.

I bet right now you could go at 60mph and really stomp on the brake hard , which not many do and see how it fairs all the way to zero (like in a crash avoidance situation). This is where you will see the limits of what your working with.

Some good pads and fluid and a lot of people are set. Even some ss brake lines to improve the pedal feel. But a big rotor kit sucks ass, plain and simple.

If anything your tires are the bottleneck 99.9% of the time. The rest is all about getting better initial bite and holding onto it. Youll maybe shave a few feet off with the stock system , have more confidence and so forth in them...but really brake pads and fluid are all you need for some serious braking.

If anything the maximum one should spend on brakes is around 600, this would include high performance / street pads. Performance rotors , ss lines and ample high quality brake fluid for the change.

Do this and youll have porsche like braking qualities no problem , without any decrease in acceleration. Heck if you get the right rotor they will be lighter and you might even see a bump in performance.
 

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mike_sho said:
Massive overkill and a 5lb caliper isnt going to do anything except the suspension. Even then a stock rotor is 11.1 inches , this one is 13. That alone your going to see a big decrease in acceleration.

Like I said your stock system is probably adequate enough for most purposes. I use to take my car to like 120mph quite often and at the end of braking towards the last stretch before I returned back to zero mph it was fading bad.

A simple pad upgrade can be your #1 ticket to braking. As well if you want to go a step further some standard size performance rotors will also benefit you in brake fade and initial bite. Slotted etc etc.

If your looking for good braking these kits are truly pointless and made to only benefit them through profit. 1800 you could do quite a suspension and chassis setup , or add-on to the motor im sure. Theres so many things.

I dont like big brake kits on really any car. Even a 20k race purpose only drag car. Know why cause at those speeds those guys would still be trying to figure out how to get the most from the car and slapping on huge rotors is just a no-no for acceleration. It would only be needed when your going insane speeds and you litterally couldnt stop the car...therefore more of a safety thing.

I bet right now you could go at 60mph and really stomp on the brake hard , which not many do and see how it fairs all the way to zero (like in a crash avoidance situation). This is where you will see the limits of what your working with.

Some good pads and fluid and a lot of people are set. Even some ss brake lines to improve the pedal feel. But a big rotor kit sucks ass, plain and simple.

If anything your tires are the bottleneck 99.9% of the time. The rest is all about getting better initial bite and holding onto it. Youll maybe shave a few feet off with the stock system , have more confidence and so forth in them...but really brake pads and fluid are all you need for some serious braking.

If anything the maximum one should spend on brakes is around 600, this would include high performance / street pads. Performance rotors , ss lines and ample high quality brake fluid for the change.

Do this and youll have porsche like braking qualities no problem , without any decrease in acceleration. Heck if you get the right rotor they will be lighter and you might even see a bump in performance.
I was only looking
 
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