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question one: whats the best way (besides CAI) to keep your engine running cooler, and air intake cooler, i know wrapping the headers, smog pump (while not good for environment )to replace PCV, rerouting coolant to bypass throttle body, and good air circulation in engine cabin. i have heard about coating the air intake (and possibly throttle body/manifold) with a heat resistant paint. now that being said question two: if coating, what parts should i coat, and with what. i have ceramic red caliper enamel and black engine enamel. could i put a base of the red to protect against heat and then put the black on for looks? from what i heard unless i got it backwards black-reflect white-absorb. but i wonder if the coating will just keep heat in. any comments and suggestions would be awesome. also i heard of a hondata heatsink. only problem i didnt see one for the crv or my engine. ill double check, right now i have a fel-pro (looks like ) graphite intake gasket how will that do with heat transfer?
 

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Id have to say a good way to run your engien cooler is to have a vent in your hood that lets out air just in front of the windshield, air coming in fromt eh front will flow through that vent instead of only under the car, which will also help your aero coefficient, or whatever that fancy science word is :lol

doing the coolant bypass on the intake isnt a good idea, so ive heard, but a hondata gasket will help a bit, but only for so long, eventually that intake manifold will heat up as usual, the gasket will prolong it for a lengthy amount of driving though.

maybe run some water-wetter? its a coolant enhancer, since water does a way better job cooling, but corrodes metal. IDK if its actually water based though, looko it up.

Header wrap around the intake should be fine, some wrap might be prone to heat soak though, so its worth some research.

Oil cooler would definetly help alot. your crankshaft is actually cooled by oil, and the heat from combustion heats that up, heating other shit up. Go for something around at least 1/2 feet by 1 foot for size, anything bigger might cool the oil too much. Again, so Ive heard. Ive never really decked a car out for performance, so most of what I know or "think" i know is from reading here and there
 

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im realy interested in the throttle body bypass mod, i live in sunny myrtle beach south carolina so freeze up of the butterfly is not a big deal to me, i can only imagine the heat in the engine bay is not nearly as hot as the coolant. and im running a 60/40 mix for coolant, more water then coolant
 

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the coolant bypass really does not do any good....unless that extra 1/20th HP really means something to you....if you think about it you might be heating your coolant/core temp more by not having the cold air rush over the line for that split second...so great your IAT dropped .25 degrees, but your temp just rose by 30 degrees
 

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30 degrees? isnt that why there is a radiator? If it mattered that much, wouldnt they simply use a larger radiator? Not trying to argue, im just trying to figure this out. I always though it was to keep the throttle body from freezing up with moisture.
 

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Clean your radiator from the built up shit taht gets in it with a car washes high pressure hose.

Flush the radiator out. Run the heater full blast for some highway driving to circulate the coolant through it as well. Keep changing the water out until its clear. After you got it clean I would refill with some antifreeze and one of those cleansing products from walmart made by prestone. I may be wrong but I think that shit is mainly isopropyl alcohol. I think those are only made to run for a few miles before drain/refill(500??)
I'd only use Water wetter after I knew everything was completely clean.


just so ya know.
DO NOT EVER MIX GREEN AND ORANGE COLOR ENGINE COOLANTS.




The other way to lower engine temps is to do some engine flushing, IE- your oil. Water only plays part of the role for keeping your engine cool. If you want it to run cool get the sludge and varnish flushed out from your engines oil. and also add an oil cooler if your fanatical about it.
 

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Its not a common mod, just maybe common on some websites. Id stay away from it. If it made a difference powerwise it would not have been designed as such.
 

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cai don't really help with inlet temps once they get heat soaked. unless you drive in excess of 85-90 miles an hour consitently even then the force of the air is already cooling your motor. only thing that really helps with cooling your motor is removing unnecessary crap from your engine bay so the air has a clean path around your motor. second get a nice rad and a fan that pumps out 1900 cfm plus.
 

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The fan only kicks on at idle though. Istick to my vented hood thing. My buddys probe had the hood temps drop a large amount after making a vent in the back of the hood, lil on the drivers side. He had a short ram, and since the air was been sucked through that vent from driving, it also drew cooler air to the air intake. Cooler intake air+a LOT cooler engine bay made a huge difference temp wise. after the engine was warmed up it retained alot of its power that is usually loss like that.
 

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The fan only kicks on at idle though. Istick to my vented hood thing. My buddys probe had the hood temps drop a large amount after making a vent in the back of the hood, lil on the drivers side. He had a short ram, and since the air was been sucked through that vent from driving, it also drew cooler air to the air intake. Cooler intake air+a LOT cooler engine bay made a huge difference temp wise. after the engine was warmed up it retained alot of its power that is usually loss like that.
ummm how do you figure. it's temp based.
 

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Well, considering my cd player dimms and the bass gets muffly sounding for a second when I have my fan kick in, I know for a fact that it only gets on my car after idling for like 10-15 minutes. Unless your in bumper to bumper 10mph traffic, its not gonna be worth the money, unless your fan dies. Then its a good idea to get an aftermarket one
 

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Well, considering my cd player dimms and the bass gets muffly sounding for a second when I have my fan kick in, I know for a fact that it only gets on my car after idling for like 10-15 minutes. Unless your in bumper to bumper 10mph traffic, its not gonna be worth the money, unless your fan dies. Then its a good idea to get an aftermarket one
ummm fans are temp based. if you drive hard then the fan comes on. and you notice your shit diming because you're sitting at idle your car won't dim while driving since the alternator can deliver energy more efficiently. if you do alot of auto-xing or drive your car hard during hot weather the fan will com on. a nice fan and rad combo will do more for engine temp management than anything. a vented hood would be next, but those are only really efficient when you're moving
 

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Stop arguing bitch, I was talking about my car, I dont drive it hard hardly at all :lol

I see what yer saying, though. I wont ever get an aftermarket fan unless mine dies on me. Then Ill spring for a slim one, cuz it will definetly be better then stock. Im just not sure if you need it, Ive seen plenty of people up here doing turbos or larger engine swaps and they ran the stock radiator and fan just fine. And they beat the shit outta their cars regularily. Only one guy had trouble and that was because he was a dumbshit and would redline 1st gear all the time instead of taking a few minutes here and there to drive normal to cool the motor off. If your auto-x ing a lot, youll have a better radiator anyways, and almost any aftermarket rad for a honda is easily twice as good at cooling.
 

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Stop arguing bitch, I was talking about my car, I dont drive it hard hardly at all :lol

I see what yer saying, though. I wont ever get an aftermarket fan unless mine dies on me. Then Ill spring for a slim one, cuz it will definetly be better then stock. Im just not sure if you need it, Ive seen plenty of people up here doing turbos or larger engine swaps and they ran the stock radiator and fan just fine. And they beat the shit outta their cars regularily. Only one guy had trouble and that was because he was a dumbshit and would redline 1st gear all the time instead of taking a few minutes here and there to drive normal to cool the motor off. If your auto-x ing a lot, youll have a better radiator anyways, and almost any aftermarket rad for a honda is easily twice as good at cooling.
dude slim fans are a great investment. you can get a nice one for 70 bucks shipped that pumps out a nice amount of cfm. i got a link if you need it.
 

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The other thing he can do for a cheap fix is clean the entire engine bay, oil and dirt act like an insulator. He could also check to see that no hoses are kinked. He may do a lot of stop and go 1st gear slammin too, If I was gonna do that to my car though I'd at least be courtious enough to turn her heater on full blast when she gets hot.

A great way to improve how a engine runs is a good long road trip at 50-60 mph for several hours of continued driving. Fresh high detergent oil, maybe with something like auto-rx or what not in it to assist cleanse it.

I get to do a long drive at least 2 times a year(450 miles one way). I swear my car runs better now than it did when I got it. Long ass drives flushes shit out.

WVU, do those slim lines pull more cfm for the same amps? If its close I'll have to jump on that sometime. My car runs quite cool though so im not worried.
 

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Most aftermarket fans push more on less power. WVU is you wanna post a link, go ahead. I was thinking of looking at ebay and doing a bit of research if I ever needed a fan though.
 

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Thats a bad idea, water is the best coolant for your engine, but it also introduces ALOT of corrosion. If you need better cooling then the niormal 50/50 do 60 water/40 coolant. Not one drop of water more. FLush the shit outta your system with regular coolant, fill, run for a while, drain and refill full coolant, run for a while, then 60/40

If you still have issue cooling like that, get water wetter, its a coolant additive. Or get a bigger radiator
 
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