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i cant believe my car is running so bad. i mean i change my oil to mobil 1 full syntheic oil took my 99 si to the track wednesday and i was hoping to break the 14's with my skunk2 cams and sprockets, dc 4-1 headers, act clutch, and b&m fuel pressure regular. well breaking the 14's wasnt even close. i ran 16's all night, YES 16'S ALL NIGHT. this is not my first time running my car nor the first time going to the track. i know what to when going up to the lights.
at the track i lowed my tire to 20 psi because thats what i did before when i have headers and exhaust only before and ran a 15.4. at that time i had my si on and the tires size was 195/55, but now i just got some 99 gs-r with 205/50 and boy do these have traction. when my tires was at 20 psi, i could rev up to 5500k and i'll bog on me and if i rev to 6k i'll spin out.
before the day of the track i called skunk2 and ask them have they dynoed any b16a yet and what was the mark. they told me to leave the intake cam at 0 and advance the exhaust cam at +2. after i did that and change to mobil 1 full syntheic oil my, i couldnt believe what i ran at the track.
do you think it's because of my tire psi or because of the oil?
where do you guys launch at, at the track and what was your psi and what did you run?
 

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dumpsi said:
i cant believe my car is running so bad. i mean i change my oil to mobil 1 full syntheic oil took my 99 si to the track wednesday and i was hoping to break the 14's with my skunk2 cams and sprockets, dc 4-1 headers, act clutch, and b&m fuel pressure regular. well breaking the 14's wasnt even close. i ran 16's all night, YES 16'S ALL NIGHT. this is not my first time running my car nor the first time going to the track. i know what to when going up to the lights.
at the track i lowed my tire to 20 psi because thats what i did before when i have headers and exhaust only before and ran a 15.4. at that time i had my si on and the tires size was 195/55, but now i just got some 99 gs-r with 205/50 and boy do these have traction. when my tires was at 20 psi, i could rev up to 5500k and i'll bog on me and if i rev to 6k i'll spin out.
before the day of the track i called skunk2 and ask them have they dynoed any b16a yet and what was the mark. they told me to leave the intake cam at 0 and advance the exhaust cam at +2. after i did that and change to mobil 1 full syntheic oil my, i couldnt believe what i ran at the track.
do you think it's because of my tire psi or because of the oil?
where do you guys launch at, at the track and what was your psi and what did you run?

Don't take this the wrong way, but this post was so difficult to read, I doubt you'll get too many responses- you should go over it again and edit it so people understand what youre tryin to say- take it easy-peace
 

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What were all the other guys running that night? Was everyone pulling shitty times or was it just you?

If it was just you, and not the track conditions something is definitely wrong. With your mods you really should have your car dyno tuned...Also pick up an Apexi VAFC if you don't have it already...

Good luck..
 

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Damn, sorry to hear that. You said you had good traction correct? Is the track located at a high altitude? How was the weather and other peoples times? 15.4 is a good time with just header and exhaust. I would think you should easily be in the 14s with skunk2 cams. Did you dyno tune your car?? What ECU are you running?It could just be you had a shitty day.. Next time you should be able to lower those times considerably.. Don't sweat it dude. In the meantime I think a JDM 2.5 collector header will help your car breath better. Maybe a Skunk2 IM will help in the future. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
no i havent dynoed my cams yet because im planning to do a b20/vtec and ill dyno it after i get that in. as of rite now im using a stock b16a ecu, i'm thinking of getting a type r ecu. i believe that should really help me.
the track is located in sacramento and people was running decent times that night. man i was so embarrassed that night. my first run was like a 16.2 and i wasnt really worry about it because i bogged and it was my first run, but as the night goes by the result was the same. i didnt know wat do man.
all i know is that a b20/vtec will solve my problems.:D
 

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Without the dyno tuning and stock ECU it makes more sense of your ets. How is your car running on the stock ECU?? A b20 block is great, but with good tuning and a good header your car should be pulling nicely with those cams.. By the way I have family in Stockton.. Good luck man.
 

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MR2KSi said:
Without the dyno tuning and stock ECU it makes more sense of your ets. How is your car running on the stock ECU?? A b20 block is great, but with good tuning and a good header your car should be pulling nicely with those cams.. By the way I have family in Stockton.. Good luck man.
I agree with MR2KSI...With some time on the dyno you should be able to get your times way down.

If I were you I would get the car dyno tuned, before going with the B20 block. With your mods, and proper tuning 14's shouldn't be a problem at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
one reason i havent dyno my cams is because i have a problem with one of my sensor. it's the crankshaft fluctuation sensor(code 54). if i dyno my cams and that pops up, then it will mess up everything. so if get the b20, it will fix that problem and when i dyno my cams everything will perfect. thats the only reason i havent dyno my car.
running my stock ecu in my b16a is normal. i feel my car pull enough be know it shouldnt be no where close to breaking the 16's.
 

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you should have gotten the B20 block THEN got the cams, THEN dynoed it. Just seems like it would make more sense. But everyone else is right you shoulndt have messed with your cam timing without a dyno. Thats how shit gets broken, you know? By the way, the settings that skunk2 gave you, were they from a car with the same exact setup as yours that was dynoed?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i got the cams long ago before i started thinking of making my b16a into a b20/vtec. i never thought i would be doing this but i guess i just want more. and for the setting that skunk2 gave, i think it was some what the same. i told him i had their cams and spockets and that i also have a fuel pressure regulator. and i asked him what kind of setting could he help me out with and thats what he gave. im not going to hold it against him or anything, he told me that every car is different but i just wanted to try it out, you know.
 

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you can tell if your HP improved if you trap speed is faster, even if you had a bad launch condition.
 

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sometimes good 60ft's are just hard to nail down esp. if the track is slick, if you had slicks or RWD/AWD it would'nt be as big as a factor.
 

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man... put that thing on the dyno?! Why everybody buy cam gears if nobody go to the dyno?!?!?!?!?!?!!? I sware man.... lol :D

you need to tune that thing BAD!!! you can find LOTS of hp and torque with cam gear tuning...

dont listen to what people tell you... every engine is different you cant just advance or retard you intake or exhaust cam like that... you need a dyno to know what work the best for YOUR car!!!

look... thats my friend's GSR...

grey line is I/H/E
blue line is I/H/E + ITR cams... no tuning
black line is I/H/E + ITR cams and cam gear tuning!!!!



you want to go on a dyno right now dont you?! :D

 

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dumpsi said:
one reason i havent dyno my cams is because i have a problem with one of my sensor. it's the crankshaft fluctuation sensor(code 54). if i dyno my cams and that pops up, then it will mess up everything. so if get the b20, it will fix that problem and when i dyno my cams everything will perfect. thats the only reason i havent dyno my car.
running my stock ecu in my b16a is normal. i feel my car pull enough be know it shouldnt be no where close to breaking the 16's.
Can't reference that sensor location right now but I'll asume it's in the head. And if it is, putting a new bottom end on won't fix that problem. I don't understand how dynoing your car will affect this sensor but driving at the track won't. :confused: If you're sticking with the same head to build up the B20/VTEC then building up the head first is probably a good idea. With my mods I'm still trying to break into the 15's (stock we run 15.7). My best run is 16.08. I've just had trouble hooking up with the track. That may have been your issue. Either way, you don't have to bolt on new mods to go faster, you just need to go back to the track and practice more. But I agree that you need to get your car on a dyno and properly tune your fuel pressure and cam gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
my sensor is not located on the head, it is located on the block(code 54 crankshaft fluctuation sensor). and if i happen to dyno my car with a check then it would mess up everything. the timing could off and stuff. also i didnt know why a ran 16's because i ran a 15.4 with only headers and exhaust. i know i have to dyno my car and i will but after i get my b20 block on.
 
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