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start modding, alot of people say the way the skunk2/AEBS intake manifold's are made they allow for vtec to crack louder...a possible good exhaust greddy, apexi, or tsudo i've heard great things about them making vtec = loud.. a Cold air intake will make your vtec sound deeper..tuning is what was goin to help..i got basemap's for sale for stock b16a's vtec does crack hard..
 

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are you just saying you want vtec to be louder........?? if thats it only way it will be louder is ummm build your motor, personally i wouldnt waste my money on a b16
 

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stockintegra said:
what will a basemap do?
He's talking about a re-mapped ECU, there are many generic ECU chips out there, offering several different programs like "Mugen", "Spoon", "Buddy Club", etc. But be wary of these, some may not actually help you.

What was said before is tru, when you tune a VTEC car on a dyno you want the transition to be as smooth as possible, so feeling a big "kick" may be les than optimal...examply, get a VTEC controller and set it at 7000rpms, when VTEC turns on you will feel a huge kick, but you will be slower than if you had it kick on at 5500rpms where it should.

If you want your transition to get louder, the easiest thing is a short ram intake, this will make a very big sound increase. A cat back exhaust will give some sound as well, and a SKunk2/Blox/OEM ITR manifold will give a little more pull up top. Getting a set of ITR/CTR cams will also make a big improvement in your top end power.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
is the v.a.f.c.onverter worth getting?how much of an improvement will i see?
so far i got aem short ram,type r manifold,n1style muffler!!!
 

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why do you want it to "sound" louder? are you a ricer?

what exactly do you want from your car? all motor? turbo? boring drag runs or do you wanna go where real men play: road racing/autox events? you gotta have a plan...not just "i want m4d t4t3 vT3c y0"

transition into vtec should be seamless when you tune it. even the factory transition is pretty bad. a vafc will only help if you have it tuned. with your modifications, it's almost not worth it yet going in to have the car tuned. plus you only have a muffler? get the full cat back piping! the vafc is pretty much a waste though. if you really are planning for big power, then you gotta spend the cash to do it. this is the apex unit you wanna get:



there are three things to tuning: Power, price and reliability....you're only allowed to have two.
 

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hahah do you want just the louder audible difference at switchover ? or do you want more PUNCH when it swaps ?

if you want the 'ricer' approach (that means u just want the noise etc but tnot the many thou$ands spent on a high-comp head buildup) then just buy a VAFC and fit a short 'stumpy' alloy intake tube.. the shorter the tube, the louder intake noise.

if you set your VAFC to switch at say 4500-5000 the audible difference at VTEC will almost be un-noticable. If you in contrast set it at say 6000-6500RPM your non-VTEC cam profiles would have well and truely gone past their peak power and thus the power curve dropped off then when it switches to the VTEC profile, it wil lalready be closer to its 'on-cam' (higher in rev-range) and the audible difference will be much more.

Doing this without other modifications etc you may well lose a lot of power however your goal of more 'kick' may be reached HAHAH

In an ultimately tuned high-performance VTEC engine, the vtec switchover should indeed be as seamless as possible with a competant tuner matching the optimum switch point between the two cams and altering the tuning to 'weld' the two profiles together withan almost seamless transition.

The whole principal of VTEC is to allow flexibility and added dynamacism to a conventional engine - not to make a BRAAAP noise when it switches cam profiles - but admitedly THAT is very addictive ;)
 

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hahaha you guys arnt all motor guys. lots of displacemnt an big cams = monster vtec. when vtec hit the b20 it was like boost. i know i might get flamed for that but if u never riden in a 12.3 NA car you wouldnt understand. vtec is not always a smooth transition.


want vtec to hit hard bring up to 7k. it will hit hard :lol2 :ninja
 

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DrivinVtec said:
hahaha you guys arnt all motor guys. lots of displacemnt an big cams = monster vtec. when vtec hit the b20 it was like boost. i know i might get flamed for that but if u never riden in a 12.3 NA car you wouldnt understand. vtec is not always a smooth transition.

LOL sounds like you need to find a new ECU tuner !!.. you may be in the 12's with your current setup but if you have such a violent transition, your tuner hasnt made enough out of your primary camshaft profile.

having said that, I agree that the 'kick' in a built B20VTEC is another thing alltogether but THAT is not relative to the thread in question ;)

you DONT want a power curve that goes "_i" you want one that goes "/" if you know what I mean - especially with the greatly enhanced torque characteristics of the B20 Block.
 

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sometimes it hard to some big ass cams like these JUN 3's




my tuner is awsome. he drive 1/8 cars an tuned some big heavey 1/4 miles car too. looks like a pretty nice curve if i saw so my self


All i was saying is that vtec is always as "gentel" as u make it. sometimes it hits like a beast. like above :)
 

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stockintegra said:
i got b16a how can i make vtec kick harder??
buy steel toe boots, or give it a baseball bat.
 

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what ecu are you using? it could be the resolution limitations of the ecu. even w/ big cams like that, you should be able to smooth it out more. oh yeah...and a higher redline would definately smooth it out and give you more peak output w/ those cams, so it seems like your block's ability to rev is the limiting factor ;) nice tq figures though...that's impossible for the b16 without FI lol

oh and btw, i've driven a 9s NA car :) but it had 4 more cylinders than yours :hehe
 

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Transitions aren't always that smooth.

Sometimes the secondary lobes are huge in proportion to the idle lobes....compared to the OEM honda cams.

In fact, doesn't Comp cams make a b-series VTEC cam with stock idle lobes and stage 1 VTEC lobes? I would imagine getting that to transition very smoothly would be a challenge.
 

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hrm your dyno chart looks very nice.. the torque curve is so consistant !!

though personally i'd prob lower your VTEC by 100RPM or so as your curve (both power and torque) dips just before vtec suggesting the primary cam profile is just beyond it's optimum point and your torque dips a little much but obviously is straight back into action a couple of hundred RPM later.

now i'm being fussy I know and also that little dip indicates it WOULD have a nice little punch as it switched over.

The JUN 3 cams have a very aggressive primary lobe so perhaps i'd look at refining AFR's at that little dip to get some more out of the primary lobe - this would make the punch less defined, but may actually improve your launches and wet-weather traction as there is no 'twitch' in the power/torque delivery.

but man screw it you're fast enough as it is hahah.
 
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