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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After reading all the horror stories about PWJDM's intake and the back-beaking installation required, I figured I could do better. I thought "hey, these people aren't following directions, or are tightening things down before everything is lined up.....well, after 10 hours worth of install, I found out I was wrong. :banghead:

It had to do some modification to the intake in addition to doing some extra work with the car in order to get the darn thing to fit, but I eventually got it in. Removing the left mounting bracket for the scoop helped get the hood to lock shut, and also angled the mounting brackets forward a bit, and put in a three-washer-thick spacer in the back to tip the intake a little. And it STILL doesn't fit all that great. The hood latch is moved up as far as it'll go, and I have to force the hood to lock shut. The hood sticks up just a little, so it's not as flush as it once was. I'm contemplating cutting the hood or trying to dent in the troublesome spot. Since it's hitting in one specific location, I know where to give it a few whacks.

Did some extra cutting on the radiator plate to expose my Spoon certification plaque. :D Not quite perfectly square, but pretty darn close.




 

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What on earth, That is some serious kit! :D
But why not email the maker and tell them it fits like shit. . Maybe ask them why or if there is something wrong, would hate to see you disfigure your car for the intake :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What on earth, That is some serious kit! :D
But why not email the maker and tell them it fits like shit. . Maybe ask them why or if there is something wrong, would hate to see you disfigure your car for the intake :(
I've already talked to them twice. They know it is troublesome to get to fit right. I knew it was troublesome to get to fit right before I bought it. In fact, they even have a line in the directions saying "OK, so that was a total pain in the @$$, but worth it." Most

The first guy I talked to sounded pretty concerned about the fitment condition of mating parts, but the second guy gave me a whole slew of "California Excuses" (nothing against California, BTW) and was telling me they could send me another part, but it wouldn't do me any good as the new part would fit like the current one. It's one of the cheapest full dry-carbon intake kits out there. The Mugen and ASM both require hood cutting and cost between $2,000 and $4,000. And this one supposedly performs just as good as those for roughly $1,000. I did more "disfiguring" to the intake moreso than the car. A lot of people cut the hood a little to allow more clearance, which may be the final option, because I don't like it hitting, or the amount of pressure it's placing on the hood, or the fact that the hood is no longer flush.

The modifications I made to the intake were mostly fastening points that were not lining up. A little drumel work and I was fine. But they did not false advertise by saying that no hood cutting was required. Stuff that I had to do to the car that was not in the directions was pretty much limited to relocating a wire harness to the inside of the radiator mounting frame, and carefully bending some AC lines in the front to make more room for the huge scoop that sits down in front. (no pics of that yet). I also removed one of the scoops mounting brackets in order to shove the whole snorkel over to the right (as facing the front of the car) to allow better fitment. This worked for others, and it worked for me.

For $1,000, a lot of people expect perfect fitment, and I the same. But figuring in material, development, and labor costs for something like this seems rather reasonable. Just wish the fitment was better engineered. And I KNOW they can do better with the mating parts.

Performance wise, the intake is supposed to grant 12 hp max, which is outstanding for an intake on this car, and worthy of further scrutiny. Does it perform? I have yet to dyno my car, with the header and exhaust on it, so I don't know where my car would sit baseline. It certainly feels better especially mid-range, and revs better. And the change in sound is pretty cool.

One more note is that this thing is ultra-light weight.
 

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I'm sorry you spent 1000 bucks for 12hp max? yeah I think I would have spent that money elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
anyways back on topic, looks good mountain-man. post up when you get the spoon coilovers installed
They are installed. I have a crappy cell-phone pic in the "just arrived" thread.
No new pics for this week, as its either raining (or snowing, as it was a few hours ago. :mad ) or just plain crappy of a day.

The intake is not for everyone. If I went FI, it would wind up costing me about $8,000-$10,000 for 100-150 HP depending on the kit and tune. That would also include other drive-train upgrades. (I looked into it just prior to me wrecking my old car. No, I wouldn't just buy a kit and throw it in. I'm a firm believer in doing things right.)

Cams are a very bad idea on this car unless you go with something specific for FI. I looked into cams a while ago before the intake, and most people have issues with the valves smacking the pistons. And I may be mistaken, but an EMS might be required for tune as well.

Trying to unlock ANYTHING NA on this car is EXTREMELY difficult. The next option for me would be to make it illegal to drive and throw a test-pipe on for a good bang-for-buck purchase. Otherwise it's Hondata K-pro. $1,300+ with other part modifications required to be purchased. ITBs are good for HP and sound, but they require K-pro or AEM ems, and also cost more than the intake I bought. SO! In summery, after the research I did, this intake was the best for the money for looks, power, and weight.

When this engine comes time for a rebuild, then I'll do a hybrid F20-F22 build that I found out about. Seemed like a pretty sweet setup.
 

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looks sick. glad i saw this thread, i was considering buying the same intake..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
looks sick. glad i saw this thread, i was considering buying the same intake..
There are some good install writeups on S2ki. I don't have the links, but I know they are there because I found them there. Got a few pointers on the install, and how to make things work.

But yeah, it was a total pain to install. Everything goes perfectly fine until you try to close the hood. Then all hell breaks loose and you spend the next half of your install time trying to get that little bit to work. Or you could cut the hood to allow for extra clearance. You don't cut ALL the way through, just the inner panel.
 

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yea ive skimmed through a few DIY's on S2Ki.. Either way nice job making things work without cutting the hood +rep
 

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thanks for laying it out for me I don't know alot about the s2k platform. I wasn't trying to come off as an ass either I just didn't understand why you would spend so much for just 12hp. I'm glad you understood what I meant as I was thinking about a standalone ecu and a good tune. its good to see that you did your research on the different options before you bought it.

I know alot of people really like k-pro and all but there are other stand alone options for much less. one of those being mega-squirt much cheaper and have alot of different options for tuneability. if you did go stand alone could you get a good enough n/a tune to get more than 12hp?


when you say drive train upgrades for the turbo route what do you mean what all would you need to upgrade? I couldn't imagine engine wise it needing to take more than 4g's


and carbon fiber always looks f'n awesome in an engine bay. this does not disappoint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
^^^

Drivetrain upgrades included a built differential (the diff in the AP1 is like the Achilles heel of the car) and an upgraded clutch and pressure plate. Was also going to upgrade the flywheel as well. Did I NEED those upgrades? No, I could go with the plug it in and go method, and many people do it that way and are fine. But it makes the drivability of the car really poor. The Comptech SC kit doesn't even have you upgrade the injectors, and in their case, you're running your stock injectors at near 100% duty cycle under full throttle close to the 9k redline. 100% duty cycle will potentially wreak havoc on the engine.
If I got a standalone, it'd be K-Pro. I used to think AEM EMS, but since K-pro came out that got moved to top spot. I'd need to upgrade to a AP2 V2 valve cover for the cam sensor and a new AP2 crank pulley for another sensor for K-pro, but the better tunability translates into more power and better drivability. Drivability is key to enjoying the car. I've looked into something like a VAFC, but the poor tunability due to the lack of tuning points is likely to make things worse.

A standalone ECU is not out of the question for a future upgrade.... just don't know when I want to invest yet another $2,000+ into the car. Yes it would unlock more power, but I'm not sure how much with my intake/exhaust combo. I've already put in an insane amount in the interior conversion, suspension, wheels, brakes, exhaust.... and I still have my front lip (LED project V2) and side skirts to put on.
 
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