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^^^

Drivetrain upgrades included a built differential (the diff in the AP1 is like the Achilles heel of the car) and an upgraded clutch and pressure plate. Was also going to upgrade the flywheel as well. Did I NEED those upgrades? No, I could go with the plug it in and go method, and many people do it that way and are fine. But it makes the drivability of the car really poor. The Comptech SC kit doesn't even have you upgrade the injectors, and in their case, you're running your stock injectors at near 100% duty cycle under full throttle close to the 9k redline. 100% duty cycle will potentially wreak havoc on the engine.
If I got a standalone, it'd be K-Pro. I used to think AEM EMS, but since K-pro came out that got moved to top spot. I'd need to upgrade to a AP2 V2 valve cover for the cam sensor and a new AP2 crank pulley for another sensor for K-pro, but the better tunability translates into more power and better drivability. Drivability is key to enjoying the car. I've looked into something like a VAFC, but the poor tunability due to the lack of tuning points is likely to make things worse.

A standalone ECU is not out of the question for a future upgrade.... just don't know when I want to invest yet another $2,000+ into the car. Yes it would unlock more power, but I'm not sure how much with my intake/exhaust combo. I've already put in an insane amount in the interior conversion, suspension, wheels, brakes, exhaust.... and I still have my front lip (LED project V2) and side skirts to put on.
I thought alot of them also changed the gearing while replacing the diff
and with the comptech I've heard alot of the guys just selling their old injectors and upgrading for a little more coin
 

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what size injectors would it need with that supercharger? 550/750cc's?...if so they really aren't expensive to find when you factor in how much everything else costs in the car
 

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what size injectors would it need with that supercharger? 550/750cc's?...if so they really aren't expensive to find when you factor in how much everything else costs in the car
expecially when you sell your old ones
on top of that you can buy a used SC and rebuild it, get it ported, and still spend less than what a new one would be
also I think that that the AP1 guys run the AP2 crank pully and get mo boost (like 2-3 pounds) for very little monies
I think at that point you'd be near the 340whp mark
 

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intake:

A) looks awesome
B)price sucks ass
C) did I mention it looks awesome?

for a grand, I would gone another route,. but props. I bet it sounds pretty mean!

youtube vid or ban
 

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^^^

Drivetrain upgrades included a built differential (the diff in the AP1 is like the Achilles heel of the car) and an upgraded clutch and pressure plate. Was also going to upgrade the flywheel as well. Did I NEED those upgrades? No, I could go with the plug it in and go method, and many people do it that way and are fine. But it makes the drivability of the car really poor. The Comptech SC kit doesn't even have you upgrade the injectors, and in their case, you're running your stock injectors at near 100% duty cycle under full throttle close to the 9k redline. 100% duty cycle will potentially wreak havoc on the engine.
If I got a standalone, it'd be K-Pro. I used to think AEM EMS, but since K-pro came out that got moved to top spot. I'd need to upgrade to a AP2 V2 valve cover for the cam sensor and a new AP2 crank pulley for another sensor for K-pro, but the better tunability translates into more power and better drivability. Drivability is key to enjoying the car. I've looked into something like a VAFC, but the poor tunability due to the lack of tuning points is likely to make things worse.

A standalone ECU is not out of the question for a future upgrade.... just don't know when I want to invest yet another $2,000+ into the car. Yes it would unlock more power, but I'm not sure how much with my intake/exhaust combo. I've already put in an insane amount in the interior conversion, suspension, wheels, brakes, exhaust.... and I still have my front lip (LED project V2) and side skirts to put on.
mega squirt is not a VAFC but a full standalone ecu with the same tuneability as Kpro for far less. but its not a plug and play option like kpro you have to wire it in. its tried and true and many people have used it on some big hp builds. alot of honda owners don't know of it cause you can chip the ecu and tune, vw owners just go with ms and call it a day since its cost effective over chipping an ecu and tuning. heres a site for ms * *MegaSquirt - Electronic Fuel Injection Computer by Bowling & Grippo * * you can also find them preassembled for around 500 for the newest board. you could spend another 200 on different odds and ends another 500 on tuning and still be under what a kpro would cost. you don't have to spend an arm and a leg to get it done right.

would defenitely not stay with stock injectors if they are that close to 100% at redline. but I wouldn't think you need anything too much bigger. just something that will put you at 85-90% duty at redline.
 

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megasquirt is also the shit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
mega squirt is not a VAFC but a full standalone ecu with the same tuneability as Kpro for far less. but its not a plug and play option like kpro you have to wire it in. its tried and true and many people have used it on some big hp builds. alot of honda owners don't know of it cause you can chip the ecu and tune, vw owners just go with ms and call it a day since its cost effective over chipping an ecu and tuning. heres a site for ms * *MegaSquirt - Electronic Fuel Injection Computer by Bowling & Grippo * * you can also find them preassembled for around 500 for the newest board. you could spend another 200 on different odds and ends another 500 on tuning and still be under what a kpro would cost. you don't have to spend an arm and a leg to get it done right.

would defenitely not stay with stock injectors if they are that close to 100% at redline. but I wouldn't think you need anything too much bigger. just something that will put you at 85-90% duty at redline.
Cool! Thanks for the link. I don't think I need new injectors with just an intake. I was referring that some people use the stock injectors when installing a comptech SC kit as per instructions. The KraftWerks U-tune high-boost is the new hotness right now, but freakishly expensive. A couple guys locally have one in their S2k. Had I wanted to, I could have bought an Vortech with aftercooler for about $2,000 and did the install myself. But It presented a lot of other variables that I didn't like. I was going to do it, but I wrecked my old car a couple days before I bought the kit. I wanted to do things differently with this one, which is why I went the route that I did.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think with the standard boost Comptech/Vortech SC, 750 injectors is suitable. I seem to recall looking up 1k injectors for my SC build when I had my old car.

And yes, referring to Duder's earlier post, along with a built diff, a lot of people change the final gearing as a torque multiplier. I don't care for that as I do a lot of highway driving. When you're cruising at 75 and your RPMs are at 4500-5000, and shifting earlier isnt as fun either.

Yes it does sound cool. I don't have any vids though. I'll try to get one up sometime soon, though my camera is old and the video function is kinda lousy. And I definitely want to get a dyno done to see what the car is doing. I'll post results when I get them.

Thanks for the good comments guys! Despite the obvious nasty price.

P.S. I found a guy who might be able to change the form of my hood-frame so it no longer hits the snorkel and make it look like it came from the factory that way. If that goes through, I'll be sure to post up that info as well.
 

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Cool! Thanks for the link. I don't think I need new injectors with just an intake. I was referring that some people use the stock injectors when installing a comptech SC kit as per instructions. The KraftWerks U-tune high-boost is the new hotness right now, but freakishly expensive. A couple guys locally have one in their S2k. Had I wanted to, I could have bought an Vortech with aftercooler for about $2,000 and did the install myself. But It presented a lot of other variables that I didn't like. I was going to do it, but I wrecked my old car a couple days before I bought the kit. I wanted to do things differently with this one, which is why I went the route that I did.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think with the standard boost Comptech/Vortech SC, 750 injectors is suitable. I seem to recall looking up 1k injectors for my SC build when I had my old car.

And yes, referring to Duder's earlier post, along with a built diff, a lot of people change the final gearing as a torque multiplier. I don't care for that as I do a lot of highway driving. When you're cruising at 75 and your RPMs are at 4500-5000, and shifting earlier isnt as fun either.

Yes it does sound cool. I don't have any vids though. I'll try to get one up sometime soon, though my camera is old and the video function is kinda lousy. And I definitely want to get a dyno done to see what the car is doing. I'll post results when I get them.

Thanks for the good comments guys! Despite the obvious nasty price.

P.S. I found a guy who might be able to change the form of my hood-frame so it no longer hits the snorkel and make it look like it came from the factory that way. If that goes through, I'll be sure to post up that info as well.
I know you don't need injectors with the intake I meant with the s/c kit if it was that close to 100% I would definitely change them. whats the stock injector size?
 

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if your stock injectors are that big and start sqeeuzing out 100% duty cycle near redline you probably only need 550's to drop it back down to 80-85% at redline if you were not wanting anything too far over what the stock s/c kit offers
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
intake:

A) looks awesome
B)price sucks ass
C) did I mention it looks awesome?

for a grand, I would gone another route,. but props. I bet it sounds pretty mean!

youtube vid or ban
Yeah, price sucks donkey balls.
Took some better pics today, so I'll post those up in the official pics thread. :)

Here's a vid I took earlier today. Audio quality from my camera kinda sucks, and the subtle differences from before and after the intake might not be distinguishable on the vid, but here it is anyway. 3rd gear pull with top up.

 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I'm surprised with constant issues popping up about fitment, pw:jdm hasn't fixed the problem...
looks nice though ;]
I got the impression that they are stubborn and they are making excuses. "We made it, so we know better than you. You just aren't doing a good enough job on the install. This is DRY carbon, that's that hardest to work with over wet carbon...." the list goes on. The intake engineering seems to be pretty good, but the fitment engineering is lousy. I have thought of ways to help solve some of their problems. Not sure if they care.

I'm worried about the engine overheating too. The intake scoop blocks about 2/3 of the radiator and AC condenser. (you can see it in one of the pics) They could easily attain the same volume of air getting crammed into that thing by raising the scoop and changing the geometry, while allowing more air to flow into the radiator. I've been keeping a close eye on the engine temp gauge for a while now. But the air temps have been pretty cool here. So the big test will be in July and August when it can get up to around 100 or so.

If the car starts to overheat, then the intake has got to come out. And PWJDM will hear about it.
 

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wow... you would actually disfigure the car for the intake.... id say sell that shit... and get something else... i wouldnt be caught dead with that if i spent that much money just to find out the fitment was like crap..


if it was me... for a grand... i would have opted for ARC... but to each his own.. i mean the fitment is really getting to me ... -_-... denting the hood for fitment ? for a grand... you shouldnt have to do this

im going to put money on the carbon cracking due to stress and pressure from the hood.... think ive seen it happen before...
 
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