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Hey everyone! I just bought a 2000 Integra Type-R and I need help. I bought the car for $14,600 off of a kid at school. The car was an attempt theft and they totally screwed the ignition over along with the IMM trying to bypass it. I was wondering if I could just buy a stock ignition system for like an Integra LS and bypass the immobilizer instead of having honda install a new one. I spent enough money on the car already. I tried looking everywhere for a solution, but nobody could help me or nor could I find a way to bypass the system. The only was I found was buying a new ECU and a sub wire harness kit and all this other nonsense. If someone could help me out I would really appreciate it! I know this is a touchy subject, but I really need help. I want to fix and drive this thing!!!! :D

If you rather not reply to this subject because of possible theifs searching the web, can you please PM me or email me.

Thanks alot if you can help me!
 

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thieves are searching teh web for u rite now... run, run away and never look back! go my son! go! Ali baba and the 40 web thievss are after u! for the love of god! RUN 4 UR LIFE!!! AHHHHH:err: :err: :err:
 

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i'm looking at the wiring diagrams for the 2000 Type R right now, so I assume by "immobilizer" you mean the security control unit that's tied to the security starter cut relay. I'm assuming it had an anti theft system on it that got all fucked up when the guy tried to steal it, right? well you could just take the security measures out of the circuit entirely...

1. A black/red wire coming off of pin 3 from the starter cut relay would, in the anti theft system, engage the Security starter cut relay. The Security relay is exactly the same thing as the regular starter cut relay, only it has a security control unit tied to it. This control unit make a decision based on an input. The wiring diagram does not specify, but it's probably something like making sure the key is in and the key is the right key... some keys have computer chips in them... my Prelude does, so your Type R probably does too.

2. With the security relay energized, it would send power to the starter solenoid, allowing the car to turn over.

So basically, you're going to need to cut the Security relay and the control unit out of the circuit. So basically all you really have to do is this:

1. Take the black/red wire from pin three (as described earlier) and run it directly to a black/white wire on the starter solenoid.

Simple, right? haha, not quite. In the diagram i've got, it shows a few other items wired in with the wire if you were to bypass the security measures. (or in the case of the diagram, the vehicle didn't come with one). it's a 7.5 amp fuse, Fuse 31, Starter signal. Located in the dash fuse/relay box, under the left side of the dash. And your vehicle's Integrated Control Unit.

Now my guess is it just uses these things to A. protect the starter solenoid (fuse) and B. to allow the computer to know that you are starting the motor and it needs to activate other systems. (ICU). I say that because there is only one wire connected to the ICU, in series, to pin 13 of the ICU. So all it can really do is send current through to the ICU, which it would just acknowledge it being there and make a decision to do something based on the fact that there is current there. Neither of these would really be needed to complete the circuit and turn over the motor. But if you're gonna do it, you might want to do it the way Honda intended it to be.

That's the best help I can give you, good luck
 

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okay, sorry, the immobilizer is not what I was thinking. i've got the wiring diagram for that system too, and by looking at that I don't think theres any way you're going to be able to bypass that system. It's tied into your PGM-FI relay, your PCM, and shit, even your fuel pump. You are in luck though, that immoblizer circuit is identical to the 2000 LS, so theoretically you could buy the system from an LS and install in in your Type R. of course, being identical it probably won't change the price much.

of course, the problem may not be the immobilzer. if you have a scan tool, check for DTCs. if you read code DTC D1607: MALFUNCTION IN PCM INTERNAL CIRCUIT then you're probably gonna need a new PCM... if that code doesn't show, do this:

turn the ignition key on. verify to see if the immobilizer indicator light illuminates. It should light, then begin to blink. if not, check for an open in the pink wire between the indicator light and the PCM.

check your fuses for this circuit, #13 and #46, both 15A. Check for an open in the yellow/black wire between the PGM-FI relay and the immobilizer reciever. Also check for a faulty PGM-FI relay, it's located above the hood release lever.
 

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well the imm is a fuel cut off not an ingnition cut, and to bybass it you will have to only send power to the fuel pump by switch or buy jumping the wires on the main fuel relay. take ignition power and send it to the yel/grn wire on the relay and the car will turn on. but its kind of funny that way, cuz if you really did have a broke ignition all you would have to do is put the ignition back together and start it with the key, even though your steering wheel wont lock if they broke it like that.
 

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You can buy a Eprom Emmulator and get it installed in your ECU It will remove the immobilizer and change your ECU to OBD1. They are a bit exspensive though around 350-400. It will be cheaper to buy a chipped P28 and conversion harness.
 
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