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Check out these dyno charts from jackson racing....and someone tell me why should I bother adding things like intake, exhaust, and headers to my lude for about a $1000 total cost when all i'm getting is like 5hp at the wheels difference?

here's a dyno with a stock 99SH in RED
155hp and 132ftlb of torque:


and

here's a dyno with one w/ a AEM intake, DC headers, and Greddy cat back exhaust in PINK
161hp and 133ftlb of torque:
 

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so what are you asking?

obviously small bolt-ons arent going to make as much of a difference, but it will be more than 5hp to the wheels. you can shell out A LOT more money for a supercharger, then MORE money to buy all of the things to safely run your car with the supercharger, and then join the community of JRSC ludes in which more than half have still blown their motors.

the more power your engine puts out/has, the less reliable its going to be. the extra power is going to add stress to the engine. thats why i spent less than $500 on a nitrous kit so that i can have power when i need it, and i dont need to submit my engine to abuse everytime i drive it.
peace
 

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here is a dyno with bolt ons tuned with a vafc. he baselined higher in a previous dyno, so the numbers are a little low. he has intake header exhaust and pulleys. he also dynoed with i/h/e and then with the pulleys and got a 7-9+hp gain during vtec with just the pulleys. so not all bolt-ons are worthless, they usually make good power as a combined effort. one big bottleneck to people's systems is the cat. if youre gonna get i/h/e you need to get a hi-flow cat or a test pipe.

i know what youre saying though. i bought nitrous after all i had was intake and pulleys. the only reason i ended up purchasing an header and an exhaust is because first my flexpipe on my header rusted through, and then my stock exhaust rusted through as well.

remember, an intake also sounds good... as well as an exhaust.

peace
 
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