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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i think im pretty close. right now i have 178 whp (in 3rd gear) and 167 (in 4th gear). both runs where with 2 step colder plugs, so that would make me lose some hp (as i heard).

well here are my mods: i/e/dc header, aem pullies, no egr and balance shaft belt, walbro fuel pump.

now my question, what would be the cheapest way to hit 190+ all motor? here are my plans...
- change back to stock heat range platinum plugs
- modify the dc header to a 2.5" collector.
- get a chipped ecu from phearable (will have a basemap)
- crower stage 1 cams (stage 1 because i dont want to have to upgrade the valvetrain - it will be costly)

will i need a new manifold and or throttle body to get myself there? do u think ill make it with those mods as is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
preludeh22a said:
do you have power steering? that frees up a few horses if you remove it. i'm gonna go for 200 whp pretty soon here. putting cams in this summer. just havent decided which yet.
ive seen a dyno of an h22 with i/e/dc header, t/b, cam gears, type s pistons, and type s cams get 190.
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/images/skunk2/h22_dyno/dyno1.gif

so if i dont have the gears, pistons, and t/b, and the crower stage 1 instead of the type s (i hear the type s is jus a lil more aggressive than the stage 1), and the dc header modded to a 2.5" collector, im guessin ill be in the mid to high 80's.

also i like my power steering ha. it's gonna be a d/d
 

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u should be able to get about 10 to 12 horses with the stage one cams...check on cardomain...this guy named prelude2sin has crower cams...he went from 147 to 160 with the crower cams...and i think he is hitting over 180 with nitrous...
 

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Get rid of those heavy ass 17" wheels...and get some lightweight 15" wheels and some toyo T1S tires.


That should free up 5-10WHP right there.

get a hondata set up to tune your car.

Get rid of the cat convertor and run a test pipe.

you will be very close to your goal if you do these above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
lOOkatme said:
Get rid of those heavy ass 17" wheels...and get some lightweight 15" wheels and some toyo T1S tires.


That should free up 5-10WHP right there.

get a hondata set up to tune your car.

Get rid of the cat convertor and run a test pipe.

you will be very close to your goal if you do these above.
yes, i kno about the 17 to 15 rim change. i was thinking about it, thinkin about goin to some rotas with some toyo proxes 4, but i decided the trade off money wise and looks wise vs power wasnt really worth it. i love my rims too much to let go. ha idk i might change my mind tho.

also i dont want to run a test pipe because i hear it makes horrendous sounds on hondas.

u dont think crome or uberdata is good enough? its not liek i have anything nuts on my car...

Si_g said:
u should be able to get about 10 to 12 horses with the stage one cams...check on cardomain...this guy named prelude2sin has crower cams...he went from 147 to 160 with the crower cams...and i think he is hitting over 180 with nitrous...
ive seen that dyno. the only thing is that that is for the h23. i havent seen any dynos for the h22. also ive heard that 10 whp from stage 1 cams is still a bit ambitious. im hopin someone can prove me that it can do that on an h22.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
94PreludeJDM said:
How about an RMF header?
too much money.

i wanna get there in the cheapest way possible.

chipped ecu w/ basemap - 175
stage 1 cams plus install - 650, more or less
new plugs - 35
modifying the collector - about 150?

total - 1010

unless if i can hit 190 whp with just the rmf header and chipped ecu and no cams...

thatd be about 700? for the header and 175 for the ecu, leading it to be 875, and i can sell the dc header for 150 or so.

edit: its about 800 at leats for the header...
 

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The easiest way to get there is to buy 15" wheels, buy some lightweight tires, tune the ecu with a hondata or uberdata or something, run a test pipe.


I personally wouldn't drop in different cams...thats just me. I think 15's look better than bulky 17's....and the tire selection for 15" wheels is SO much better...if you decided not to run the toyo tires.

you have a choice you need to make...power or looks.
 

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95hprelude said:
too much money.

i wanna get there in the cheapest way possible.

chipped ecu w/ basemap - 175
stage 1 cams plus install - 650, more or less
new plugs - 35
modifying the collector - about 150?

total - 1010

unless if i can hit 190 whp with just the rmf header and chipped ecu and no cams...

thatd be about 700? for the header and 175 for the ecu, leading it to be 875, and i can sell the dc header for 150 or so.

edit: its about 800 at leats for the header...
Being cheap on a N/A honda is always a bad idea.

Listen to lookatme, the 15's are going to be more beneficial than just getting more power to the ground.

If you honestly want to get 190whp out of your car N/A, you'll do what needs to be done, and hopefully realize that you do have to pay to play.

My opinion would be... stage 1 cams, nothing to serious. A custom header, RMF or SMSP being your best choices. Lightweight 15's opposed to your heavy 17's. Port and polish. And whichever tuning you want, other than a vafc. Oh yeah and a cut out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
expierence97 said:
Being cheap on a N/A honda is always a bad idea.

Listen to lookatme, the 15's are going to be more beneficial than just getting more power to the ground.

If you honestly want to get 190whp out of your car N/A, you'll do what needs to be done, and hopefully realize that you do have to pay to play.

My opinion would be... stage 1 cams, nothing to serious. A custom header, RMF or SMSP being your best choices. Lightweight 15's opposed to your heavy 17's. Port and polish. And whichever tuning you want, other than a vafc. Oh yeah and a cut out.
wats a cut out?

i didnt mean going cheap as in buying cheap parts. i meant as in part choice wise if u kno wat i mean (as in header vs cams, rims vs this or that, etc.) if i was truly going cheap, i would be getting some obx cams n call it a day.

stage 1 cams and an rmf header would get me there w/o a doubt. but that would also leave my pockets empty. my debate its now either:
cams and tuning
or header and tuning.
or rims, tuning, and modifying the collector on my header.

which one do u guys thing will get me there w/o a doubt? or will none of them get me there..?

the tuning is not a vafc, i NEVER said i was going to get that in this thread.
 

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I think you'd benefit a lot from the headers, especially because you have a few mods, correct me if i'm wrong but he should be looking at 15-20 whp with an RMF or SMSP. I think with the header and some tuning, you can do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yea, i heard its possible. actually i really dont want to give up my 17s ha. so now its between:
cams, modifying the header i have now, and tuning
or a nice header and tuning.

cams + modding the header i have now will prbly come to the same price as the nice header. but will the cams and 2.5" collector give me more, or will the nice header give me more?

obviously, ill go with watever one adds the most and costs the least. thats what i meant by i wanted the cheapest way of getting there.

i actually thing the cams and the collector will get me there and a lil more.
 

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95hprelude said:
wats a cut out?
Its a cut out right after the header that dumps the exhaust gases out and saves it from having to travel through the rest of the exhaust system. You can get an electronic cut out where you just flip a switch in the cabin to open and close the cut out
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
h22lude said:
Its a cut out right after the header that dumps the exhaust gases out and saves it from having to travel through the rest of the exhaust system. You can get an electronic cut out where you just flip a switch in the cabin to open and close the cut out
o yea i heard about that. does that work?
 
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