Technically, yes. Though that small ammount of increase won't matter much. so it can wait if your worried about it. Its less than a 5% increase in injector size. BUT you could end up with an injector on the higher side of the tolerance band( i have no idea what tolerances injectors run) EXAMPLE: say it had a 3% tolerance a 675cc could end up operating more like a 695cc. It can also go the other way, a 675 could end up being as low as a 654cc with a 3% tolerance.
What AFR did you get tuned to? If you were already running a richer mix on your turbo setup then it may be worth while. If it was conservative I wouldn't worry as much. Likewise if you went down some CC's and had a conservative tune with your turbo setup I'd get it retuned.
Why are you thinking of switching injectors?:confused
Ahh but another reason I'm going to just dish out some money for Crome Pro and an Ostrich. :ninja
if you have hondata s300, it should be no big deal to get bigger injectors, as that system allows for those kind of upgrades, but you HAVE to tell it. It cant figure it out on its own. Although this upgrade is prolly not necessary (bigger injectors) maybe they are tellling you because the saftey margin is too small. unlike the stock honda sytem which is 95 or 100% injector duty cycle ( you use the max flow of your injectors) most tuners will use roughly 80% or less, depending on theapplication. That extra 15cc rate might increase the saftey margin to what the tuner thinks is necessary.
I advise you to ask your tuner why you need the upgrade, and ask questions about things like saftey margin. They would be happy to tell you, I would imagine. Its not a huge deal on NA apps, but since a turbo can fluctuate its boost depending on how you drive it, that safety margin needs to be increased along with it
Long story short, got robbed. I'm tryin to piece together my old setup. Sum guy sez he's got 660's for sale but i dont know if they'll work. Old injectors were mototron, he's got accel. Inline pro makes 675 so does RC but then i'd have to get retuned. Tryin to get running without spending a G. All car theives should die slo
You can always have a friend drive the car hard while you follow to check for a rich burn after getting the new injectors. Thats what I'd do. If it came out running too rich just weasel em out of a tiny bit of tune time.
Technically peak and hold injectors are better because they open faster, but this benefit is most realized with injectors in higher flow ranges where very short open times are needed to get proper low load AFRs. Using a saturated driver with resistors will considerably slow down peak and hold injectors.
I agree, having a setup and goal would help A LOT. Four 660cc squirters are good for ~350-400bhp, FYI.
Peak and hold just peaks electrical current and then drops a little and holds there before reaching zero. Saturated holds the injectors open for the same amount of voltage all the way through. None is really "better" than the other.
Get what your ECU requires.
I would be more worried about the spray pattern than which type is best.
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