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Darth Chinko
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Too rich for my blood. I'd rather spend $500 on the motor without the trans. $50 on the pistons. $700 for the LSD trans. And then throw the rest into the head, flywheel, clutch, induction, and exhaustion. Then I'll find a set of mounts.

All in all, I'd spend about the same price for that motor with shipping for one from the neighborhood and shop.
$2900 isn't bad for a motor with a warranty that is a drop in (with some modifications).....and you'll prolly pay more than 700 for an lsd with trans...and you're buying used parts anyway....why not buy the used parts already assembled :lmao
 

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I think the LSD trans is an F20B one, but it's at the shop near my house. And that's the asking price for it. Doesn't need to be shipped which is good. All this talk is making me want to ditch my B series plans and build an H22. Lol
 

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So I was mulling over this silly build and others like it, such as the one the OP posted a link to. This 12.5:1 cr is just ridiculous.

I looked up max tq per liter and it belongs to a ferari. Which also happens to run a 12.5:1 cr. However the major difference between the ferari and the build this guy is wanting to make is the same as his engine and the mazdaspeed 3/6.

This would be DPFI(Direct Port Fuel Injection).

Instead of 8.5:1 cr the speeds are able to run 9.1:1 cr.

The other thing is he says he will tune out some of this compression with the cam gears. If he does this then power output will be sacraficed. So why not go less compression? Not to mention the engine he's building does not have coil on plug, which is much more critical as you exceed 11.1 cr on pump gas.

How much power does the new civic RR make with 2.0 liters? And what's he expecting to get out of a 1.8 with a cr of 12.5 to 13.0:1? Its not making sense. I know the k series is better but still when you get into performance builds like he's trying to do it doesn't make a whole lot more power. One of its real advantages comes from coil on plug.

If he needs yet another example look no further than the honda. S2000 engine.

Im anxiously awaiting the ignition timing this engine will have.
 

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Darth Chinko
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I think the LSD trans is an F20B one, but it's at the shop near my house. And that's the asking price for it. Doesn't need to be shipped which is good. All this talk is making me want to ditch my B series plans and build an H22. Lol
i know and it'd be sexy in my new dc-4 :p...k20 power without the price, and I'm sure i can get the A/C to work just fine in it. :p...i really don't care about p/s in these lightweight hondas....
 

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Darth Chinko
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I believe there is an AC kit out there. But on a DC, you can just use a half size radiator and have the space for it. Or so I would think. I've only ever owned a DA, and I miss that car.
yeah boltons and conservative tune would put you in the 215-220whp mark :-D
 

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Discussion Starter #47
The other thing is he says he will tune out some of this compression with the cam gears. If he does this then power output will be sacraficed. So why not go less compression? Not to mention the engine he's building does not have coil on plug, which is much more critical as you exceed 11.1 cr on pump gas.

How much power does the new civic RR make with 2.0 liters? And what's he expecting to get out of a 1.8 with a cr of 12.5 to 13.0:1? Its not making sense. I know the k series is better but still when you get into performance builds like he's trying to do it doesn't make a whole lot more power. One of its real advantages comes from coil on plug.

If he needs yet another example look no further than the honda. S2000 engine.

Im anxiously awaiting the ignition timing this engine will have.
Let's start with what I actually I said about cams and compression

sycosys;4361971 And the larger cams that I want to run will require a higher compression because of their long duration/overlap will inadvertently bleed off more compression.[/QUOTE said:
Not once did I say I would tune out the compression with the cam gears, I will set up the cams to where they make the best power with in respect to P2V, and V2V clearance.
And as far as my compression ration is concerned I have already stated that it will be a max of 12.5:1 that mean it might end up being lower but yet you keep mentioning 13:1??? and yes the little difference does matter. Also have you ever tried building a motor like this? Do you have first hand experience with this type of build? And if you haven't looked at the links to the dyno's i posted I suggest you take a look, and you could even call them and talk to them about their numerous 13:1 builds that run on 93 octane. And I'm aware that I don't have COP but I will be able to upgrade to them if I so choose.

So as far as my "silly build" is concerned I would appreciate it if you left out your opinions based on why it won't work and find me some solid examples of it not working, but in doing so I am pretty sure that you will find more builds like mine that work than those fall flat on their face.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
i know and it'd be sexy in my new dc-4 :p...k20 power without the price, and I'm sure i can get the A/C to work just fine in it. :p...i really don't care about p/s in these lightweight hondas....
I was only referring to the A/C not working in conjunction with the QSD H2B conversion because they informed me that I would have to cut into the frame rail due to having to use the stock crank pulley which is to wide to fit with their kit.
 

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Darth Chinko
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I was only referring to the A/C not working in conjunction with the QSD H2B conversion because they informed me that I would have to cut into the frame rail due to having to use the stock crank pulley which is to wide to fit with their kit.
I will find a way to make A/C work if i do that....but i'll prolly just be lazy and do a b18b-t lol.....
 

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Hey guys I know I’m new here and all but I thought some of you would be interested in my NA B18C1 build. Now I’m not saying it’s something special or anything but since I started coming up with the parts list I’ve had one goal in mind a 205-215whp daily driver and a motor that will last 80,000-100,000 miles before it needs tearing down again. Up until the other day I was still undecided about valves and I still kind of am but I am pretty sure on what I have listed. I’ve been working on this list for about a month now doing constant research and decided it was time to post it up because I just ordered some parts last Friday, so If anyone has questions on why I chose certain parts I would be kind to let you know why.

Here's my project

IMAG0157 by Sycosys, on Flickr

Oh yea I almost forgot to let everyone know why this happened, well about 3 months ago shortly after putting my new clutch and lightweight flywheel in I did the infamous Money shift (3rd to 2nd for those who don’t know) sending my motor to 11,300rpm. btw this motor had 150,000 miles on it and all that happened was 5 bent exhaust valves and 5 cracked valve guides, only if my exhaust valves would of had dual springs I wouldn’t have to be doing this, lol. But now I get a lot more power so yay for me.
Thanks for checking out my build guys I’ll upload some pics when I get parts :)

Mahle pistons 9cc High Compression 81.25 12.5:1-13:1
These allow me to run tighter PTW clearences because they are made of 4032 alloy, their only .25mm oversize so I have extra room to overbore if I need to, and I like their side skirt coating more than Wiseco.
Brian Crower lightweight Sportsman Rods w/ARP2000 426g
I chose these because of their lightweight to make my engine more responsive and they were fairly cheap as well. also I wanted to replace the old ones that have 150,000 miles on them.
OEM Honda Main/rod bearings, thrust washers, complete set.
OEM bearings allow me to run my deisred clearences much easier.
Skunk2 Pro series Intake Manifold
It was either this or the blox and I like the quality of skunk2 products so I chose this one.
Larger throttle body but not sure what kind and size
Skunk2 Pro Valve Spring set
Because they have a lower seat pressure than most aftermarket springs which will reduce wear and they are reccomended for their line of pro cams.
Skunk2 Cam seal
Skunk2 Pro1 Cams (I’ll have to wait on those so ill be using my GSR cams for a few months)
Brian Crower steel retainers
Because they don't wear as fast as the titanium ones and I won't have to check them as often and or replace them.
Ferrea completion plus Valves
It's a little over board for my build but this way I don't have to worry as much about valves handling the abuse.
Ferrea valve locks Hylokeeper
stronger than OEM ones to handle the increased spring pressure/valve lift.
OEM Honda Valve guides
I chose the OEM guides because the bronze wear out to quickly any where from 30,000-60,000 miles.
OEM Honda Valve stem seals
I almost always use oem seals because of their high quality.
ARP Head bolt kit
to handle the increased RPM and power
ARP Main stud kit
I might not be using this acutally because it requires a line hone to be done.
Hondata Intake manifold gasket
to reduce intake temps.
Extended Intake manifold studs
to make it easire to use the hondata gasket.
Avid torque mounts
old ones were worn out.
Larger injectors when I get the money
B18C Oil pump OBD2
B18C Lower timing cover OBD2
B18C Water pump OBD2
B18C Timing belt w/tensioner
B18C Oil pickup (strainer)
All OEM gaskets for the rest of the motor

Like I said before I’m still kind of undecided on the valves it was either that, Brian Crower, ITR Intake w/oem exhaust, or ITR Intake with Ferrea for the exhaust. But if anyone has any advice for me regarding the valves or anything else in my build I would be glad to hear it.

Here's some more info on my current setup.
Mild port job on cylinder head
AEM Short Ram intake
DC 4-1 header
Omni power test pipe
Apexi WS2 Exhaust 60mm (2.36")
ACT lightweight flywheel Streetlite 12.5lbs
ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate/ACT Performance clutch disk 245ft/lbs
Hasport engine mounts

And yes I plan on a larger throttle body but Im not sure what size yet I would like a 70mm or 72mm opening tapered down to 68mm so i can make use of the Venturi effect but i'll have to see about that, and yes I know to get the intake manifold port matched to the throttle body. By the way I live in WI so almost every gas station has 93 octane.
Built alot of these type of motors in the last few months.. tuned quite a few too.

I've found GSR's typically will like 12.1-12.5 CR on pump gas with good supporting mods.

Before i go any futher.. I have a customer who has a bone stock USDM GSR, I/H/E with my custom cams, he's making 208whp. Compared to Crower2's which he was making 190whp on. I believe he's in the 12's on slicks..
You can find more info on my custom cams and valvetrain that i offer @ facebook.com/customcams.


-The performerX will be the best manifold for your setup right now. skunk2 wont even come close, plenty of dynos and research to show that the best off the shelf manifold for a 1.6-1.9 liter motor is a pX.
-Ti retainers last as long as you maintain them.. keeping up with your valvelash and correct vtec settings will allow them to live longer.. i had crower ti-retainers for over 4 years before i switched to skunk2's pro series valvetrain, and then to my custom valvetrain.

-65/68mm TB should be fine for your setup.

setup sounds "decent"

Make sure to run a 3'' exhaust at least, and a good header..
 

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do i even want to know how aggressive your cams are lol

but you added over 60whp with boltons and cams on a stock motor? you sure there was no internal work?
My stage 1's are more aggressive then the pro1's, but not as aggressive as the pro2's.

A perfect daily cam , if you would.

The guy was running a I/H/E/Tune with crower 2 cams, and ran 13.3's @ 100 mph in a full interior GSR
The only thing he did was switch to my cams, left the tune alone and made 199. After a retune he made 205. He's having launching problems but running 13.3's @ 104mph now.

His user name is SOLODC on Honda-tech, you can actually google DDTECH Cams or search my facebook or look @ my webpage to see the results.. i have the STD correct and uncorrect numbers.. its impressive..
 

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Darth Chinko
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My stage 1's are more aggressive then the pro1's, but not as aggressive as the pro2's.

A perfect daily cam , if you would.

The guy was running a I/H/E/Tune with crower 2 cams, and ran 13.3's @ 100 mph in a full interior GSR
The only thing he did was switch to my cams, left the tune alone and made 199. After a retune he made 205. He's having launching problems but running 13.3's @ 104mph now.

His user name is SOLODC on Honda-tech, you can actually google DDTECH Cams or search my facebook or look @ my webpage to see the results.. i have the STD correct and uncorrect numbers.. its impressive..
dude so i should just do lsvtec and get your cams?...lol what was hi comp ratio
 

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dude so i should just do lsvtec and get your cams?...lol what was hi comp ratio
stock, i'm assuming 10:1? He was on a bone stock USDM GSR Block with 150k+ miles..
 

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I'm making some SC LS cams right now.. Guy's building a b20 bottom end with a ls head, and a JRSC. 12lbs, with my cams, should easily do anywhere from 200-230whp.
 
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