a few things i wanna point out in your last post there. hondata, crome, uberdata, and neptune are not standalones. they are forms of rom editors using the stock ecu. standalone would indicate a standalone ecu being used.
also neptune isnt freeware. it's cheaper than hondata s300 and allows a few more features.
and last but not least, piggyback's in general just suck and arent worth the money and should be avoided when you have much cheaper options like hondata s100 or crome and uberdata, which are freewares and allow tons more adjustability.
a few things i wanna point out in your last post there. hondata, crome, uberdata, and neptune are not standalones. they are forms of rom editors using the stock ecu. standalone would indicate a standalone ecu being used.
also neptune isnt freeware. it's cheaper than hondata s300 and allows a few more features.
and last but not least, piggyback's in general just suck and arent worth the money and should be avoided when you have much cheaper options like hondata s100 or crome and uberdata, which are freewares and allow tons more adjustability.
the air that the sri draws in is not hot when your driving
guy on TI tested it with lots of equipment
"Cliff Notes: the most important factor is not cold air. Instead, it's the diameter and length that determines powerband location...the worse thing you can do is choose one that's too small for your eventual peak power goal. 3 in. ID is more than enough. Not much more to say than that...
Those chambered, tapered Carbon Fiber intakes (J's CF or Password CF clone) or Tsuchinoko style chambered intakes ? Great for low to mid rpms. Looks great as well.
But at high rpms? It compromises the top end tq for high rpm'ers since the taper increases flow speed into the TB entry at the bend of the intake which kills the pressure at higher engine speeds. Net result at higher flow speeds at higher rpms?: turbulence at the TB entry. Basic flow dynamics at bends...read up on it and learn. A neat trick is to open up the diameter just before the bend and slow flow down so it doesn't shear and induce turbulence as the rpms rise and entry flow speed into the bend rises at the same time. Or you can open up the diameter just before it reaches the TB after the bend to slow down the flow at high rpm and hopefully reduce the turbulence that way."
"for comparing 2 different intakes, if the diameter is the same in both, different lengths (short ram vs. long tube) results in tq gains in different places along the rpm range or powerband. Longer lengths tends to move the peak tq down to a lower rpm (affectionately called the AEM hump because it was first seen in the AEM CAI back in the early 1990's on Bseries engines).
if the length is kept constant, bigger diameters shift the peak tq location to a higher rpm location along the rpm range in WOT. There is a max out point though. The law of diminishing returns has shown us by experience that for a 1.8L NA motor, there's not much point in increasing the ID past 3 in. because if you keep on going bigger, there isn't any more major gains to be seen.
So you choose the right intake dimension to suit where you want to see tq increases. We are talking about full throttle or wide open throttle powerband shapes here. You haven't even talked or considered part throttle performance and peak tq location yet either. (Again...if you had read the "I have a Teg. I want more power. Help me." thread in the Intense Learning link pinned on top of this forum, you would not be so ignorant of these basics)."
and all you need to know about intakes here http://www.team -integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=10&TopicID=65561&PageMsg=Viewing+Common+Topic
everything you need to know about different headers http://www.team -integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=10&TopicID=70812&PageMsg=Viewing+Common+Topic
Straight pipe /Testpipe vs High Flow Cat http://www.team -integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=10&TopicID=3110&PageMsg=Viewing+Common+Topic
"Carsound cat vs. test pipe on a modded N/A Integra. The Carsound is the blue line. The test pipe did not outperform the cat anywhere on this dyno as you can see. The 2whp peak gain of the test pipe doesn't even count as it was just the leftover inertia on the rollers at the end of the run."
bbk , Sk2, AIR, JG intake manifold IM http://www.team -integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=10&TopicID=122952&PageMsg=Viewing+Common+Topic
Bobinika, Ive seen people try to say that high flow cats do not have any performance difference when compared to a test pipe, but I have done the test myself. Same day, same temperature. 2.5" carsound high flow cat vs 2.5" test pipe. The test pipe made 6whp over the cat after 6200rpm. The mid RPM was the same. So as far as im concerned, the T-I test is wrong, because I did it myself.
Furthermore, I dont think it is nessecary to call me ignorant. I actually find it rather immature. :td
Bobinika, Ive seen people try to say that high flow cats do not have any performance difference when compared to a test pipe, but I have done the test myself. Same day, same temperature. 2.5" carsound high flow cat vs 2.5" test pipe. The test pipe made 6whp over the cat after 6200rpm. The mid RPM was the same. So as far as im concerned, the T-I test is wrong, because I did it myself.
Furthermore, I dont think it is nessecary to call me ignorant. I actually find it rather immature. :td
Bobinika, Ive seen people try to say that high flow cats do not have any performance difference when compared to a test pipe, but I have done the test myself. Same day, same temperature. 2.5" carsound high flow cat vs 2.5" test pipe. The test pipe made 6whp over the cat after 6200rpm. The mid RPM was the same. So as far as im concerned, the T-I test is wrong, because I did it myself.
Furthermore, I dont think it is nessecary to call me ignorant. I actually find it rather immature. :td
You sure those weren't just peak numbers? I see a lot of people do projects, even in magazines that claim a header will increase 8hp. But when you look at the dyno plot, all it is is a gain at the very end of the plot. Nowhere else is it any different.
So looking at the dyno's provided by bobbinika, you can clearly see that they pots are pretty much identical. The main idea here is be environmentally safe and make power at the same time.
Because if power is want you are really after, why even have a test pipe when you can just run an open header?
Finally, seems like soo much info is pulled from that site, why not just tell them to go there for the info?
thanks for the good info Sirfallsalot243. it will def answer a lot of newb questions. here is one for you tho. in your cams part you never suggested any good brands really. ive bin looking into it and i think im going to go with crower stage 2's. good choice?
thanks for the good info Sirfallsalot243. it will def answer a lot of newb questions. here is one for you tho. in your cams part you never suggested any good brands really. ive bin looking into it and i think im going to go with crower stage 2's. good choice?
Yes, i have dyno numbers. The engine wasnt fully tuned at the time, but it made 6whp peak over the cat, and was making better power after 6200 all the way to the 8700 redline. It also made a few more ft/lbs of torque. Ill post up the dyno sheet next time I go home (may 8). Nothing was changed in the run except the test pipe.
thankfully for this thread it should be helping alot one thing i still dont understand which should i be running with forged or cast piston for my turbo setup i m still not sure if i wanted 851 or 901 compression i wanted a much boost as possible so u think i should go for 851 or is it too much low?
thankfully for this thread it should be helping alot one thing i still dont understand which should i be running with forged or cast piston for my turbo setup i m still not sure if i wanted 851 or 901 compression i wanted a much boost as possible so u think i should go for 851 or is it too much low?
keep in mind that with higher compression, the importance of a good tune is paramount. Its much easier to break or blow something up if its not tuned properly or at all.
Hi everybody, I just started working on my integra a few weeks back so far ive installed a cold air intake, I took out a welded diffuser that was getting in the way and just and re did the tubing. I also changed my oil pan. When I go to start the car now it sounds almost like a grinding noise...
So I have a 91 integra with a b18b1 USDM according to owner it was previously converted to obd0 from obd1. The transmission is a GSR cable transmission.
Currently the transmission is shot whines like crazy in all 5 gears 4th gear went out.
I have a JDM b16 transmission I bought in cali i took...
Good old days...The snow tires I was using weren't cutting it. Couldn't get any traction in 1st and 2nd even on a drag strip. Found a set of 2 drag radials on craigslist (size 195/60/R14), and decided to put to use my old rusted steelies:
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I have recently completed upgrading front suspension on my 1995 Acura Integra GSR. Wanted to share a quick video with you guys. Perhaps it could serve as an inspiration to folks who also considered doing it. All it takes is a bit of effort and some patience:
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