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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I've got another grand to dump into the civic, now I'm trying to decide which to purchase first, and I hope that you guys can give me some good ideas. It's a D16Y8 w/60k miles, T28BB turbo @ 7psi. It's the edelbrock kit, comes with its own piggyback.

I'm trying to decide which of these 3 things to get first, I do plan on getting all three eventually.

Internals: Forged rods/pistons, thinking about stepping up the compression a bit as well. Reason, the T28BB is pretty small, so I wouldn't be looking to get any more than 14psi or so out of it.

ECU: I know everyone loves Hondata, and with great reason. But I've been told that they dont support 8 injectors, (and the edelbrock intake manifold comes with 4 extra injectors). The AEM EMS looks like it'd be sweet for my setup, it does support 8 injectors. Just have to find a good price on it.

Clutch/Fly: I'm still running the factory clutch/flywheel. I know im going to need to replace that clutch soon and I wouldn't do that without upgrading to a stronger flywheel while I'm in there as well. I was thinking, /the 12lb X-ACT flywheel, what do you guys think?

I'm not really sure which of the 3 to get first, so thanks for your help guys =)
 

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GreenGO said:
Clutch/Fly: I'm still running the factory clutch/flywheel. I know im going to need to replace that clutch soon and I wouldn't do that without upgrading to a stronger flywheel while I'm in there as well. I was thinking, /the 12lb X-ACT flywheel, what do you guys think?
[/B]
how soon do you need the clutch? id say if theres a chance of anything wearing out or going bad, replace that first. its gotta work right in order to be imporved upon. but that's only if u cant wait till the next $1k comes around. itd also be nice to feel the gains of a lighter flywheel, and then to improve on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The clutch is starting to wear out, but honestly im starting to think that getting the EMS might be my best bet to get first because I'm beginning to wonder exactly how well the edelbrock piggyback is "tuned".. And I don't want to end up buying a new motor. I know some other people are having problems with leaning out in the upper RPMs, and I've experienced a bit of that as well. Anyone know if the edelbrock piggyback can be dyno tuned or not?
 

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I would go with the clutch and flywheel. I wouldn't consider an AEM EMS unless you really plan on turning up the boost.

I think that the ACT 12lb'er is a good way to go, but you are going to need a very aggressive clutch if you plan on turning up the boost to 14psi and raising compression (wouldn't recommend with that much boost).
 

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clutch and flywheel is my vote as well... your edelbrock system is designed to keep your motor running @ stock settings for quite a while. your driving however will probably fry your clutch very quick. :)
 

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Something else I saw...you wanted to raise the compression...isn't high compression bad for a turbocharged motor?
 

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Depends on a lot of factors. How high the wants the CR, how much boost is being run, and how well the system is tuned. However you typically don't want to raise compression on a turbo setup.

Personally I would rather raise compression and just run low boost, but that is a whole other discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
kommon_sense said:
Depends on a lot of factors. How high the wants the CR, how much boost is being run, and how well the system is tuned. However you typically don't want to raise compression on a turbo setup.

Personally I would rather raise compression and just run low boost, but that is a whole other discussion.
I'm right with you on this one Kommon. The thing is, the T28BB is such a small turbo, afaik it's only really good for 13-14psi max.

My thinking is that if I'm going to replace the pistons/rods, I might as well get something along the lines of 10:1 compression. ~12-13psi on a 10:1 motor (as a final goal) would be killer, and I think I'd be quite satisfied. I've heard good things about "V-dish" pistons, namely JE/SRP, can anyone give me feedback on them? I've already got an 8 injector setup, I might as well take advantage of that.

As far as the clutch setup goes, would it be wise to stick with a clutch/flywheel both from the same manufacturer or does it really not matter?
 

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GreenGO said:
I'm right with you on this one Kommon. The thing is, the T28BB is such a small turbo, afaik it's only really good for 13-14psi max.
Yeah, the t28 sucks... I'll be a good e-buddy and take it off of your hands for you :)


My thinking is that if I'm going to replace the pistons/rods, I might as well get something along the lines of 10:1 compression. ~12-13psi on a 10:1 motor (as a final goal) would be killer, and I think I'd be quite satisfied. I've heard good things about "V-dish" pistons, namely JE/SRP, can anyone give me feedback on them? I've already got an 8 injector setup, I might as well take advantage of that.
10:1 sounds like a very good way to go. Just be aware that you will need a good management system (like the AEM that you mentioned) to properly tune with that CR and boost level, but you are right, should do well. I've *heard* not so great things about the JE/SRP pistons. Just spend the extra dollars and go with Arias or someone.

As far as the clutch setup goes, would it be wise to stick with a clutch/flywheel both from the same manufacturer or does it really not matter? [/B]
Doesn't really matter. You don't have a lot of choices on flywheels for a d-series. The ACT and kaiten are the only forged chromoly flywheels available for the d-series. I bought an ACT. Not familiar with the Kaiten. You don't wanna go to light w/turbo. 12lbs is probably as light as you want to go. As for clutch, you will probably need a 6-puck or exedy cerametallic or something like that, because you will be in the 250-ish whp range @13-14psi.
 

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kommon_sense said:
You don't wanna go to light w/turbo. 12lbs is probably as light as you want to go.
ok i'm not flaming you, nor am i trying to make you look dumb... but please explain the logic behind that... why wouldn't you want to go for a lighter flywheel on a turbo motor?
 

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5gencivic said:
ok i'm not flaming you, nor am i trying to make you look dumb... but please explain the logic behind that... why wouldn't you want to go for a lighter flywheel on a turbo motor?
A heavier flywleel helps your motor keep its momentium, and that keeps you spooling longer,, well if you granny shift anyways.
 

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5gencivic said:
ok i'm not flaming you, nor am i trying to make you look dumb... but please explain the logic behind that... why wouldn't you want to go for a lighter flywheel on a turbo motor?
A heavier flywheel will not drop rpms quickly when shifting which will help keep the turbo spooled.

Also, as I understand it (somone jump in if I'm wrong), turbos work best when there is a load on the engine. A heavier flywheel causes a heavier load. Might want to do a search in the turbo forum for a good explanation of this. It has popped up there several times.
 

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kommon_sense said:
Also, as I understand it (somone jump in if I'm wrong), turbos work best when there is a load on the engine. A heavier flywheel causes a heavier load.

Your right on that one;)
 

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damn i'm too much of an n/a man then... my personal pref is that the engine responds as quickly as possible. this means that i use a light flywheel in my vehicles and had planned on getting one when the R32 GT-R appears in my garage. apparently i need to re-think... damn.
 
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