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Discussion Starter #1
What do i need to do to correct this?
 

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Well, 1400 watts might be a bit taxing for your stock alternator. A bigger battery under the hood will help out some. A bigger battery up front and one in the trunk will help out a lot more though. Look into an Optima Red or Yellow Top. Also you could use a capacitor, but they are way over rated. I would say definetely get a bigger battery under the hood, and consider a second for your trunk. There was another post on this forum by SpeedRacer about the same issue and lots of good advice was given, so if you want, check out that post too, it should help you out. If it doesn't keep posting here.:)
 

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a "cap" could help, but a second battery is the ideal way. the second batt should be stored out of sight. It could also be a back-up for an alarm.
 

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There was another post on this forum by SpeedRacer about the same issue and lots of good advice was given
The post was entitled "Need Help Dealing With System" by the way.
 

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1400watts on a standard alternator is bad news and im afraid the only permanent solution is a competition alternator and 2guage or 0guage cabling throughout, from my calculation u will need an alternator rated at around 120 amps or bigger preferably around 180 amps.
 

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im afraid the only permanent solution is a competition alternator
Not totally. 2 Batteries will solve the problem, as would a batcap. www.batcap.net They make some awesome products. An alternator is a possibility though, but I have seen a lot of cars running as much power and more that still run their stock alternators.
 

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if your amp is 100amp or more u will be good. i would recomened u buy a yellow top or compareble bat first..... if thats not enuff i would say add a second but u should be good with 1....

i will be running an accord alt in my crx with 1 yellow top and about 2500wrms so with 1400 u should be good......... remember your amp will not always be putting out 1400 watts.........
also upgrade the ground wire on your alt to bat to 4g and run 2 from the bat to the amp


just to make sure i will assume 1400 is the wrms rating and not max?

hope this helps
 

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the big thing is longevity. It will indeed be more taxing on your alternator to just leave it as is. Adding a cap, or another battery will help keep the hard spikes away from the alternator, but the power has to come from somewhere. If you are continuously draining your battery or cap and letting the alternator recharge it, you will cause your alternator to die. I'm running close to 1500wRms(via my kicker birth certificates), 300w power invertor, tons of multimedia toys(ps2, dvd, 3 screens), and all sorts of other toys since I'm a gadget freak, my stock battery lived about 3 months, my stock alternator lived for almost a year. In the beginning I had a 15farad Cap, when the battery kicked the bucket on me, I did all sorts of reasoning as to why it died so soon, so I replaced the 15farad with a little 1.5 farad, and replaced the my battery with an optima blue top(same as a yellow, it just has auxilary posts). When my alternator died a few months ago, I decided for the price Honda was going to charge me to replace it, I would just get a rebrushed alternator instead. Now I have a happy 180amp alterternator, Optima Battery, and 1.5 farad cap, and have no problems. My indiglo gauges don't even dim any more.(I have HID so headlights don't dim either way). With the stock alternator, optima battery, and 1.5 farad cap, my parking lights, and dash lights would dim like mad. It drove me nuts.

Moral of my usual long windedness. I'd go for all 3 if you can afford it. Alternator, Cap, and Batt..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So what else do i need when i add another battery? I heard that i need an isolator, but how big do i go? Is this all i need, that is, an isolator and an Optima red?
 

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So what else do i need when i add another battery? I heard that i need an isolator, but how big do i go? Is this all i need, that is, an isolator and an Optima red?
If you are only upgrading your factory battery you do not need an isolator. If you buy 2 Optima's and put one in the trunk then you will need an isolator. When you use an isolator it works like this:
Isolator has 3 pins: One goes to your rear battery, another to your battery under the hood, and the other goes to your alternator. The isolator makes sure one battery does not draw from the other, but allows both to be charged from your alternator. This means that when your bass hits really hard and draws max. current, it only draws from your rear battery. As for how many amps you need, look at your amps specs, and find out what it's MAX current requirement is, and that will also be the number of amps you need for your isolator. Don't be worried if you use a higher amp isolator, that will not hurt, plus it leaves you headroom if you want to install second/third amp later. Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
VTECnicalAccord said:


If you are only upgrading your factory battery you do not need an isolator. If you buy 2 Optima's and put one in the trunk then you will need an isolator. When you use an isolator it works like this:
Isolator has 3 pins: One goes to your rear battery, another to your battery under the hood, and the other goes to your alternator. The isolator makes sure one battery does not draw from the other, but allows both to be charged from your alternator. This means that when your bass hits really hard and draws max. current, it only draws from your rear battery. As for how many amps you need, look at your amps specs, and find out what it's MAX current requirement is, and that will also be the number of amps you need for your isolator. Don't be worried if you use a higher amp isolator, that will not hurt, plus it leaves you headroom if you want to install second/third amp later. Hope this helps!
So do you think that replacing just the factory battery with an Optima battery is enough? What about using the factory battery with an Optima in the trunk? Work the same, right? Thanks for all the replies!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
VTECnicalAccord
Do you have any pics of your car and install? Must be nice to have the CVA-1005!
 

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So do you think that replacing just the factory battery with an Optima battery is enough? What about using the factory battery with an Optima in the trunk? Work the same, right?
My advice would be to try out a single Optima under the hood and see how much help it provides. That way you don't run out and buy 2 batteries and fnd out that 1 would ae done the trick. If yodo decide to go to a second battery in the trunk, it is almost a must that it is of the same make as the one up front, meaning don't run yor Honda battery with an Optima in back.

VTECnicalAccord Do you have any pics of your car and install? Must be nice to have the CVA-1005!
No, I am too poor right now to buy a digital camera, but I am working on getting some pics up. As far as it being nice having a CVA-1005, it is. Did I mention I have a dvd player right underneath it too? LOL! Believe me, it's nice, but I work my a$$ off to get it and eerything else. I don't know about you, but I am 21, a full-time college student, and I work 2 jobs. I was working 50+ hours a week on top of going to college when I bought it. Now hours got cut at both jobs, so I am only getting about 24 per week and it sucks. Take out car insurance and gas money and I don't have much left to save for my new system. But, those are the breaks, I imagine hours will develop again this spring and I will get back on the money track
 

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the problem with just adding two batteries would be the same with just having a battery and a cap. If you are pulling more juice than your alternator can recharge, you will hurt the batteries, and the alternator. But yes a good first step is just upgrading your stock battery. Personally I'd go for an optima yellow or blue(same as the yellow with extra posts). They are deep cycle and will support your stereo for longer periods of time, say at a drive in or a gathering on a friday night. Nothing worse than showing your system off to everyone, then getting in your car, and not having enough juice to start it back up. Optima Red is a high CCA battery, with more a lot more oomph behind it for starting(I use one in my bel air), but they discharge much quicker. Another point of a deep cycle is it is made to be discharged and recharged many many times where starter batteries like the red top won't tolerate you taking them down below 90% charge to many times without kicking the bucket.

Just some things to think about down the line. You can pay for things up front, like getting a new battery and a new alternator. or you can pay for them down the line, and risk them failing when you need them the most.
 

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Hey illusion. I was thinking about something the other day while taking a crap and reading a Cabela's catalog. Wonder what a 24volt deep cycle trolling motor battery would do for a system. Or hell, even one of those 12 volt monsters. An Optima is beefy, but there are some marine batteries that ae HUGE!.
 

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some of the 24v batteries are just two 12v hiding inside of the case, depending on weather you wrie it in series or parallel get's you 12 or 24v. One of my friends has 3 optima troll furys in the back of his denali, those things are freaking huge!! but then again he's running 8 mmats D100HCs with 8 juggernaut 12"s so I guess he needs a bit more power than me. jeez think about it, almost 10000w on subs alone YIKES!!! he's running twin stinger 300amp alternators too lol. Some things are just a little excessive, he doesn't even show the truck, it's just his friday night pimp mobile..



The troll fury is the one with two batteries hiding inside of it. mine is the middle one.

I think my max is about 2000w, I have another DX-700 I might add(along with another pair of L5's(well they were L7's when I bought them) which will make it about 2200w which isn't too horrible, my electrical system now should be able to handle it. Or I might ditch the whole setup and go with some mmats monsters, then at the most I'll put a batcap in the back or get another 15farad cap. The only way I'll put a full sized battery in the back is if comptech has it's way and forces people to put in a tiny battery up front to install their supercharger, then I'll just put a meaty deep cycle in the back to keep it going.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just out of curiousity what will happen if I leave the factory batter under the hood and add an Optima Yellow in the trunk?
 

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that would work out ok, it would help a lot. Just need to get a high current isolator, like 150A plop that under the hood, run some 2ga to the back(fused right at the front battery of course, and fused again right at the back battery) find a happy home for the back battery and you should be set.

eventually(maybe a year or two or possibly longer) you will probably still kill you alternator, but that setup will make it much happier, and you'll be isolating your system from the rest of the electrical system which will make the car much happier.
 
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