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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know most everyone thinks the dc sports ss header is a waste of money, but I can get one for about 250 bucks. Is it worth it? I really cant afford to spend anything more. I have a 5th gen with an aem v2 and a greddy evo2 and ur pullies. What type of gain would I be looking at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
honda_racing101 said:
Thats a waste. The only way i'd get a DC is if it were free. Even then I'd sell it.
Really....I tend to disagree. I cant afford anything better at the time. I will be doing a turbo once I get back from my next tour of Iraq but I don't deploy for like another six months and I want some more power to play wit before then. I have a little bit of money to drop right now but I spent most of it on a pspec ss and a spc camber kit. What do you think would be a better hp buy for the same cost?
 

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Two thing: one, you're not going to gain any power. Literally, the DC header is the same size as your stock one, you'll gain, at most 2 whp or so, you won't even feel a difference. Second, if you're going turbo, you you won't be using a header, save your money and put it towards your turbo setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Two whp? Ive heard of 5-12 if you have i/e to go with it. I know I wouldnt use it for a turbo setup, I may be a noob but Im not stupid. I just want some more power to play with for the little money I have left. I dont care if I loose it later down the road for the turbo setup. Any other suggestions???
 

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prelude2perfect said:
Two whp? Ive heard of 5-12 if you have i/e to go with it. I know I wouldnt use it for a turbo setup, I may be a noob but Im not stupid. I just want some more power to play with for the little money I have left. I dont care if I loose it later down the road for the turbo setup. Any other suggestions???
5-12 lmao?! Where did you see that? On ebay?

If you dont have money for anything better, then your better off just saving, becuase no header for 250 dollars will make any power. Just save for the turbo that your going to get if you actually have the balls to it.
 

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Having built several H22A's for street and track, and currently doing another I can honestly tell you a DC-S header won't do much even with an Intake. And in addition, most intakes will make you lose power. Save your money...The stock intake and exhaust may not look pretty but they do a very good job. On another note, I think you listed underrdrive pulley's too. That's fine for the accessories, but leave the stock crank pulley as is. If the engineers could have underdriven it any further without sacrificing the life of the crankshaft they would have to improve fuel economy. Hope this helps cheers...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I dont need to save. I'll have plenty of money in the bank when I get back to do everything I've been dreaming of, including buying a 00-02 S4 to be my new daily driver so I can devote my time into the lude. I'm just bored and want to do something small for now to keep me busy. If not a header then what else?
 

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Camshafts, plugs, wires, distributor, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, ecu, advance timing, lightened flywheel, just some basics that will net you some gains that will make use of the intake/exhaust to their full potential. Beyond that, you would have to open up the motor...
 

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prelude2perfect said:
I dont need to save. I'll have plenty of money in the bank when I get back to do everything I've been dreaming of, including buying a 00-02 S4 to be my new daily driver so I can devote my time into the lude. I'm just bored and want to do something small for now to keep me busy. If not a header then what else?
is your suspension still stock?
 

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Not really

I got mine for $200 ceramic coated and it was new and here in PR where everything is more expensive (except you Cali people :p)...

There is something people have forgotten to mention, if you have a JDM H22A its stock headers is exactly the DC Sports shape Header... however, if you have a USDM H22A then it will give you gains not like some haters mention here that won't give you none, not only it weights 1/3 less but the volumetric flow velocity is better.

But truly, don't waste your money on this if you're going turbo once you get back... if you want power, change the ECU for a P72 or P28, get some Cam Gears and Nitrous. Or just get Nitrous, you can use it in your Turbo Build up as well. ;)

Beleive me, a good turbo setup... of course if you are looking for mad power to the wheels the least you'll get is is about $7,000. Save your money, Mr. Rich guy...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
crdcz03 said:
is your suspension still stock?
These are my mods: AEM V2, GREDDY EVO2, UR PULLIES, EXEDY STAGE 1 CLUTCH, FIDANZA FLYWHEEL, KYB SHOCKS AND H&R SPRINGS.
I just resurfaced my rotors and put on some good pads. Brakes are good enough for me til I turbo. My SPC camber kit is on the way along with my pspec short shifter. I also just put on some new Kumho all seasons and am going to re-tint her cuz the tint I have on right now is sh!t. New Bosch platinum fours. I just crossed over 117,000 miles. I could probably use some new wires and fuel filter since I drive my car really hard, but I'm not sure.
 

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prelude2perfect said:
These are my mods: AEM V2, GREDDY EVO2, UR PULLIES, EXEDY STAGE 1 CLUTCH, FIDANZA FLYWHEEL, KYB SHOCKS AND H&R SPRINGS.
I just resurfaced my rotors and put on some good pads. Brakes are good enough for me til I turbo. My SPC camber kit is on the way along with my pspec short shifter. I also just put on some new Kumho all seasons and am going to re-tint her cuz the tint I have on right now is sh!t. New Bosch platinum fours. I just crossed over 117,000 miles. I could probably use some new wires and fuel filter since I drive my car really hard, but I'm not sure.
You're on the right track!!! :btu
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Freakin'H22A said:
I got mine for $200 ceramic coated and it was new and here in PR where everything is more expensive (except you Cali people :p)...

There is something people have forgotten to mention, if you have a JDM H22A its stock headers is exactly the DC Sports shape Header... however, if you have a USDM H22A then it will give you gains not like some haters mention here that won't give you none, not only it weights 1/3 less but the volumetric flow velocity is better.

But truly, don't waste your money on this if you're going turbo once you get back... if you want power, change the ECU for a P72 or P28, get some Cam Gears and Nitrous. Or just get Nitrous, you can use it in your Turbo Build up as well. ;)

Beleive me, a good turbo setup... of course if you are looking for mad power to the wheels the least you'll get is is about $7,000. Save your money, Mr. Rich guy...
whats the deal with changing the ecu? How would that help and how much would it cost, ect.?
 

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prelude2perfect said:
whats the deal with changing the ecu? How would that help and how much would it cost, ect.?
Well last week I was asking the same thing... here's what I encountered...

P13 - This is the stock H22 ECU. It's good for a stock motor (duh ). It has the capability to be chipped, but the maps that are available are very limited in scope. If your motor is near stock, you will be fine with this ECU. You can get programs that have slightly more timing and fuel with a lower VTEC engagement and still be fine. If you want the capability to do some tuning and change VTEC engagement, an Apexi VAFC or similar MAP signal altering piggyback will work well. This ECU cannot be used with Hondata.

P14 - This is the stock H23 ECU. I would assume this ECU can also be chipped, but I've never seen it done and don't know of any available programs for them. This ECU cannot be used with Hondata.

P28 - The civic ECU and the cheaper most common choice. The P28 will NOT control the secondaries (IAB's) in the intake manifold on the H22, H23, and B18C motors. The intake manifold will stay on the shorter runners, and you'll usually lose 5-10ish horsepower from your powerband under 5500ish RPM. After 5500, the air velocity will be high enough that the shorter runners will start making power. Unless you plan on racing in the 2K to 5500 rpm range, this shouldn't affect you much.
The P28 also doesn't have a knock sensor like the P13, P14, and P72 ECU's. These ecus only use the knock sensor to alter timing under 5500 rpm. After 5500, the knock sensor can no longer make timing adjustments anyways. If you think that having a functional knock sensor under 5500 rpm is going to save your motor, you're wrong
The P28 IS Hondata compatible. In addition, there are TONS of various chipped programs available for the P28. If you're planning to run a chipped program in a P28, make sure the program is for your motor and not a civic. There are P28 programs available that mimic the stock P13 fuel and timing maps, but I don't see the point in changing out your ECU so you can run the same maps........

P72 - The GSR ecu. This ECU does control the IAB's and also has knock sensor capability, but is more expensive than the P28 ECU. Technically this is the best ECU to use, because it has all of the features, but usually these ECU's are overpriced. Knock sensor capability is mostly useless, but if you're running an N/A motor the IAB control might be something you want.
I've heard stories about people running stock P72's on prelude motors and claiming power gains. These people smoke crack. The maps on the stock P72 ecu are designed for the B18C1 motor, NOT for the H22. If this ECU makes more power, it's probably because it's running more timing or less fuel than it should be.
The P72 IS Hondata compatible. In addition, the Hondata software allows you to change where the IAB's open/close, so you can engage the shorter runners earlier or later if you'd like.

P74/P75 - The integra LS ecu's. These ECU's do not offer VTEC control, IAB control, or knock sensor control, and thus are perfect (and the cheapest) options to use on the H23 motors. These ECU's ARE Hondata compatible.


Hope this helps....

P.S.
Even though P28 has so much popularity I don't get what are the outcomes from this device in use? :confused... I mean... don't the car behave weird with so much limitations?
 
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