Lets talk brake rotors.
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I've had Powerstops, (the cross-drilled ones), since 2001
and they're great. Stop better then oem, (but I think the
axis pads have more to do with this), and no rust on the
outside parts :clap. Maybe the "Parts Review" section has
some reviews on aftermarket discs/rotors?
and they're great. Stop better then oem, (but I think the
axis pads have more to do with this), and no rust on the
outside parts :clap. Maybe the "Parts Review" section has
some reviews on aftermarket discs/rotors?
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542 Posts
AEM drilled rotors arnt that great alota my friends bought them, and all of em warped.. strange.. but i wouldent trust it
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2,896 Posts
autozone rotors will be fine for you...buying expensive slotted rotors that won't be any more effective than blanks on a street car is just asking to spend more money when they wear out...but that's my opinion
I've got axis metal-masters on the Honda, and hawk's
on the Nissan, and they both have a low "metalic
grinding noise" at low speeds, but I like the Axis better. However, the Nissan's got drums in the rear, and the Honda's 4-disc, so everything I just said is purely subjective :lol. I like Axis, but heard nothing but good about the Hawk's; no "Axis option" for the Nissan that
I could find. Zegs is right about the pads, but my rotors sure are sexy
!
Still good after 4+ years, too.
EDIT: I think the Hawk's were a lot cheaper, but the
Honda's my "baby", so it gets nothing but the best=
$$$. Hawks are good :tu. I got, I think, the second
highest from "no name" that they offered.
www.tirerack.com
I got these for the Nissan:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...lar=&make=Hawk&model=Performance+Ceramic+Pads
They screwed me/sent me the wrong rotors, though, so
install them asap, or get an rma number :lol2.
on the Nissan, and they both have a low "metalic
grinding noise" at low speeds, but I like the Axis better. However, the Nissan's got drums in the rear, and the Honda's 4-disc, so everything I just said is purely subjective :lol. I like Axis, but heard nothing but good about the Hawk's; no "Axis option" for the Nissan that
I could find. Zegs is right about the pads, but my rotors sure are sexy
!Still good after 4+ years, too.
EDIT: I think the Hawk's were a lot cheaper, but the
Honda's my "baby", so it gets nothing but the best=
$$$. Hawks are good :tu. I got, I think, the second
highest from "no name" that they offered.
www.tirerack.com
I got these for the Nissan:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...lar=&make=Hawk&model=Performance+Ceramic+Pads
They screwed me/sent me the wrong rotors, though, so
install them asap, or get an rma number :lol2.
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11,248 Posts
A slotted rotor won't stop any better than a blank unless under extreme track conditions. Also slotted rotors are like cheese graters on the pads and accelerate pad wear and if the pads are not seated properly then you can end up wearing your pads such that they look like a wedge.
I've had oem blanks, powerslots, brembo blanks and now carbotech blanks. I even had the powerslots and brembos while using the same set of brake pads. No difference whatsoever in braking. Braking is all about the brake pad and brake fluid.
As for pads, I've used oem, aem, and carbotech bobcats. As for braking ability :
bobcat > aem > oem
The bobcats squeal on occassion, but not enough to concern me. However they dust *FAR* less than the aem pads. It was a real chore to get the dust of the wheels from the aem pads. With the carbotechs, the dust is so light, that most of it will wash off with a good rain. You can get the wheels sparkling with minimal cleaning effort.
Search the review forum, and you will see info that I posted regarding the carbotech rotors/pads.
www.carbotecheng.com
I've had oem blanks, powerslots, brembo blanks and now carbotech blanks. I even had the powerslots and brembos while using the same set of brake pads. No difference whatsoever in braking. Braking is all about the brake pad and brake fluid.
As for pads, I've used oem, aem, and carbotech bobcats. As for braking ability :
bobcat > aem > oem
The bobcats squeal on occassion, but not enough to concern me. However they dust *FAR* less than the aem pads. It was a real chore to get the dust of the wheels from the aem pads. With the carbotechs, the dust is so light, that most of it will wash off with a good rain. You can get the wheels sparkling with minimal cleaning effort.
Search the review forum, and you will see info that I posted regarding the carbotech rotors/pads.
www.carbotecheng.com
I went with the Powerstop (cross drilled)rotors, AEM pads (Nissin) and SS braided brake lines. Everything went well for around a year, Emergency stopping was much imporved. Then the rotors warped. Had them turned by local brake shop and everything was good for another 6-8 months. Carried them back to shop and they said they're too close to their tolorence limit to turn again. I'm now in the process of looking for a 4 piston caliper upgrade or a complete big brake conversion like the Wilwood, but man they aren't cheap!
I'll probably just run the stock rotors and AEM pads untill I can afford the Wilwood.
I'll let ya know how it stops.
I'll probably just run the stock rotors and AEM pads untill I can afford the Wilwood.
I'll let ya know how it stops.
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11,248 Posts
don't waste money on slotted rotors. blanks will work every bit as well. As for pads, I recommend carbotech bobcats. www.carbotecheng.com98Vtec said:
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21,366 Posts
the amount slotted and/or crossdrilled helps in braking is very insignificant compared to increasing rotor size and caliper clamping force. if you want stronger brakes, get big rotors and big calipers. and of course, like what everyone said, the pads will make a bigger difference than OEM sized slotted and/or crossdrilled rotors. that being said, they do look uber sexy and are generally cheaper than oem blanks :hehe
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11,248 Posts
Don't forget, no matter what you do to your brakes, they don't actually stop the car... the tires do ...
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21,366 Posts
this is very true....get a rim/tire combo w/ a bigger contact patch and it will help out much more than those slotted/drilled rotors :nodkommon_sense said:
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2,896 Posts
well the slotted and/or crossdrilled rotor doesn't help braking AT ALL...imo they should actually INCREASE braking distances (as long as you're not exceeding tire's grip) but have no way to prove thisUltraMagneticAL said:
why? less surface area = less friction = less braking
only reason to get drilled or slotted rotors is to help prevent the pads from fading (which won't happen on the street) , to help in wet braking (let's water escape so there's no interferance between the rotor and pads contacting...porsche actually did a comparison between drilled and blanks in the wet and drilled rotors stopped faster), and weight reduction
let's take porsche for example...they have huge ass rotors and calipers...i bet they already have enough clamping power to exceed any tire's (even slicks) potential grip...so they use drilled rotors to lighten the weight of the rotors and we all know what that does...i believe the gt3's, each rotor weighs like 4 pounds or something
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4,072 Posts
how about this whole kit how much more stoping power do you think this would give you?
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The endless big brake kit :hehe thats what I want :bow
The endless big brake kit :hehe thats what I want :bow
The tires are more responsable for stopping the car then the brakes. However, the 4 pot big brake kits do allow for better feel and brake control. What am I getting at? Well...larger rotors with bigger calipers allow for more brake control because there are mulitple pistons in the caliper to allow for more precise brake control. The larger rotor allows for a larger surface area for the pad to contact with, while at the same time, allows for less heat build up. At the same time though, a larger brake setup tends to require larger rims and tires as well. Yes, everyone ends up costing more, but with the larger rims and tires, that allows for more of a contact patch. That's something to consider for competitive racing. For the street and occasional spirited driving? I like my Nissin pads just fine.4_door-Johny said:
Ok people, just a little insight on Powerslot rotors. In August of last year I replaced my OE pads and rotors (which were worn out after only 92k miles ) with Powerslot rotors and AEM (Nissin) pads all around. They stopped GREAT but squealed at all four corners under light braking. Around the first of the year, I noticed a little warpage beginning to develop. The rotors are now full fledge WARPED in the front, most noticeable between 60 and 40 mph. I emailed Powerslot about warranty information, and they said basically they offer NO warranty coverage for warping. The only way they would replace the rotors is if they were warped when I put them on the car... :mad PLEASE. So I just wrote them back asking if they would be willing to replace my warped rotors in the front, and we'll see what the response is. I'm guessing they dont give two shits about it. So just an advanced warning if you are thinking of getting Powerslot rotors... DONT. Do some homework and get some good slotted ones like Brembo or whatever, or just do blanks, which is what I should have done.
BTW does anyone know if the Brembo blanks are good? NOPI has them for like $30 per front rotor, and I may have to break down and buy some if Powerslot doesnt come through with anything.
) with Powerslot rotors and AEM (Nissin) pads all around. They stopped GREAT but squealed at all four corners under light braking. Around the first of the year, I noticed a little warpage beginning to develop. The rotors are now full fledge WARPED in the front, most noticeable between 60 and 40 mph. I emailed Powerslot about warranty information, and they said basically they offer NO warranty coverage for warping. The only way they would replace the rotors is if they were warped when I put them on the car... :mad PLEASE. So I just wrote them back asking if they would be willing to replace my warped rotors in the front, and we'll see what the response is. I'm guessing they dont give two shits about it. So just an advanced warning if you are thinking of getting Powerslot rotors... DONT. Do some homework and get some good slotted ones like Brembo or whatever, or just do blanks, which is what I should have done.BTW does anyone know if the Brembo blanks are good? NOPI has them for like $30 per front rotor, and I may have to break down and buy some if Powerslot doesnt come through with anything.
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