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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
loosing coolant to my oil, it is milky looking. im not burning oil however, and my car doesnt even smoke, just looses coolant out of the rad. also, cyl #2 has 95 psi compression and my others are 180. i know that coolant is usually headgasket related, and oil can be rings as with low compression in just 1 cyl, so im kinda trying to put it together as to what happend. unfortunately, this is a fully built motor with less than 1500 miles. what do you guys think?
 

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Headgasket is blown between the cylinder and water jacket.
 

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sonictronic said:
Headgasket is blown between the cylinder and water jacket.
i second that
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hmm, thats what i was thinking, but this is a closed deck aebs sleeved block, i wonder how common that is to happeon on this. however, in the corner in between cyls the sleeve doesnt go all the way to the outside, and i wonder if thats my prob....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
alright, headgasket seems to be the vote. more than that, i almost wonder if the headstuds loosened up around that cyl. i know they are arp's but ive used them a handful of times already.

im thinking of pulling the head this weekend to see what the deal is, and perhaps ordering a thicker cometic gasket and a new set of headstuds. as of now im still driving the car over 100 miles a day. if you stay out of boost it barely eats any coolant. i mean it still drives fine, and even boosts fine without smoking, just eating coolant. ill probably change the oil in there too, just to get rid of the coolant ridden oil and protect my fucking 5k dollar motor
 

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Just another thing whoever built the block did they mill the head and deck to make sure it was absoutley flat? It also will not seal right around the cylinders if this is not done. Anytime I take a motor apart it will goto a machine shop to have it checked out before I put it back together?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
550whp said:
Just another thing whoever built the block did they mill the head and deck to make sure it was absoutley flat? It also will not seal right around the cylinders if this is not done. Anytime I take a motor apart it will goto a machine shop to have it checked out before I put it back together?
sleeving was done by z10, i was there when it was getting decked, took .010 off. the head is also 2500 miles since being milled as well
 

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take out the plugs, put a air line into each cylinder (one at a time) and slowly pressure them up to 100psi. remove the radiator cap and watch for bubbles. if you see bubbles, then the headgasket is bad or there is some wrong with the head, it could be cracked. If not bubbles, then you have a bad head gasket not by the firering, but between the oil and coolant passages (like someone alreasy said). you could have a cracked block or even a cracked head. if it is not smoking, then you are most likely ok then. a thicker head gasket will only lower the compression, not fix leaks due to unflat surfaces. if there is water in the oil, then you are decreasing the LUBE factor of the oil and you are going to start to wear bearings, cams, and turbo bushings or ball bearings. water lays on top of oil and is the first thing that gets pulled into the oil pump through the pickup. 100 miles a day of driving should be 0 miles a day if there is water in the oil, unless you don't care and someone else is footing the bill for your setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
0 miles a day is not possible, i have to be at work. the oil is being changed, im gonna see if i can make more sense of this over the weekend. if i have a cracked block im gonna kill someone, after spending 1300 bucks to have it sleeved
 

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well the sleeves might not have been set right in the bottom of the block and water getting in there, it is very possible. What sleeves do you have? If they are not right then it will leak. I know that if i had a built motor and there was water in the oil then i would get a different car to drive to work, so that my brand new motor would not be junk, but you can do what ever you want i don't really care. you obvoiusly posted here for advise and you did not like what you got.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i bought another hatch, ill have it by mon for work. the sleeves are aebs done by z10. ill be very mad if i have to take the whole block back apart and drive to jerz to have them fix the sleeves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
z10 just installed the sleeves. one of my friends put the pistons and crank in (he is a 8+ year cert. honda mechanic who has built 100's of motors). i did the rest. ive done it a few times, i think this was my 3rd time putting one together and installin it iin the car, i follow the helms, and have not had previous problems


i did another compressoin check today and all cyls were 180 dead on. did it 2x even. last time i probably had the bleed valve on the gauge open or it wasnt in the spark plug hole all the way. regardless, the good compression is confirmed by how the car still drives fine, and made the proper power (261/201 at 7 psi) on the dyno b4 i knew i had problems.

gonna retq the headstuds tomorrow, see if it helps, go from there
 

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Were you or anyone aware that you have to put the head on it and torque it down to specs for 3 days and check it once or so a a day to make sure the sleeves sit properly? This was done to my GE's.

When u did the compression check did you do it at WOT like it tells you to. Some people always overlook that when they do it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well i know that you are supposed to recheck the tq on the studs anyway, but ive personally never had a problem, and my friend who builds motors has never either. i didnt know it was a must do for aftermarket sleeves. could i have permenantly damaged the sleeves by not doing it?

comp check was done at normal operating temp, wot, 6 cranks per cyl
 
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