[monkeyteg]

I have a 98 integra GS with I.H.E. I would really like to get some more power out of this motor but have been told that i wont get much power from just motor work. I have been told that this motor doesnt really get any power without forced induction. Is this true? How much will i benefit from new cams? any info would be great. Also, is there any way to actually build a reliable ls/vtec and is it worth it?
Thanks

 

[Strong Civic]

LS Advice: Get Vtec.
Where: www.prospeed-performance.com
30,000 miles and still going strong

 

[LSBlackInteg]

Get a Carsound Cat and advance your timing with cams and other stuff. If u really want power, go turbo or lsvtec.

 

[G2Integrity]

My cams helped a good deal, that would be your next step.

 

[MRXMUFFIN]

I have a 98 integra GS with I.H.E. I would really like to get some more power out of this motor but have been told that i wont get much power from just motor work. I have been told that this motor doesnt really get any power without forced induction. Is this true? How much will i benefit from new cams? any info would be great. Also, is there any way to actually build a reliable ls/vtec and is it worth it?
Thanks

how much is more power? you get more power by going all motor, but the question is will it be enough to satisfy you. People say go turbo with the LS engine cause of the low comp, long gear blah blah blah and they are correct. its just the question how much power do u want?

for ls/vtec i hear people of having theirs for like 2 years and its still going strong. it really depends if the shop does it correctly and does it without cutting corners.

 

[GsrRacer]

Forced Induction will always get you more hp than NA. It just depends on how much work you want to put into tuning. There are many other things you could do to improve hp without going FI. Throttle body, Intake Manifold, Ignition System (spark plug, wire, coils), Fuel Components (pump, rail, regulater, injector), Electronics (Apexi AFC, Venom control module), Internals, Cams/camshaft. It all depends on how much youre willing to spend. The gains won be as much as FI, but theyre'll be less headaches than having FI.

Or you could just go all out and dual charge your LS Like that Meguiars Type R where HKS installed a supercharge and a turbo. Think it makes like 360 or 380 hp under stock internals and normal fuel timing and it makes over 400hp with tuned fuel timing.

 

[GsrRacer]

Check out this thread, http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2847 Its pretty much the same topic. Like Tuan told BODYROCK in that thread, u could always use some nitrous

 

[Etylorcen]

Dont bother w/ all motor on a ls. I too was thinking about it a long time ago and realized you're going to dump in a ton of cash and a lot of down time on your car and end up w/ like 170hp on a car w/ still a long geared tranny. If you're pretty satisfied with your car right now and you just want to do one little thing before you totally stop then get some crower cams. It'll give you an extra kick in the mid and high rpms. If you want raw horsepower and torque go turbo and if you're on a budget go get yourself a zex nitrous kit. They go for around 400-500 bones and its instant power on tap.

 

[monkeyteg]

NOS???AFC???

Well, the idea of nice did cross my mind but everyone has told me that no matter how well you use it NOS significantly reduces the life of your engine. Also what are the benefits of an APEXI AFC? I thought it only really gave you power if you were in need of a significant fuyel increase (ie FI).
Any info would be great.

 

[5speed98]

Go FI of you want BIG power or just buy a B18C5 but both are $$$

 

[GsrRacer]

Well...Even without FI you should still adjust the fuel along with ignition once you have a lot of parts on your car. It wont do much in the beginning when you have the basic I/H/E but later on when you do some internal work/increase cr.

 

[White98LS]

You are on the right track. However where the LS lacks behind all other models is in the gearing. By switching to a JDM 98+ITR final drive which is 4.78 vs. your 4.28 final drive or an aftermarket ATS of KAAZ final drive at 4.91 you will effectively shorten your gearing about 12% which should net a 12% reduction in 1/4 mile times. If you are going to stick to drag racing keep the LS if not switch over to a vtec motor which has its benefits on the road course.

Sorry, dude, but I don't think that 12% shorter gearing necessarily equals a 12% better ET. According to my calculations, that would drop a stock LS's time from a 15.9 to a 14.0, a mighty big drop for just gearing. It is still a 2600-lb. car with 140hp. Plus you have to factor in the extra shift or two it'll take to get there. The GS-R's final drive of 4.40 is about 3% shorter than the LS, which easily takes care of the whole 0.3 second difference between the two stock. Not trying to hate, just saying that I don't think that it is quite right.

 

[White98LS]

I dunno I still find it hard to believe that my ET would drop from 15.9 to 14.0 because of gearing. Not saying you're wrong necessarily, just find it kind of obscure. However, your top speed would go down 15% only if it is limited by gearing, which on most cars, like Integras, it is not. Take a Viper, for example. It reaches top speed in 5th gear, and not at redline, because 6th is super-long and even the 8-liter V10 can't pull through it. So shortening its gearing by 15% would probably actually improve its top speed. Just food for thought.

 

[nonvtecDA9]

b20 block, crower 403s, high comp pistons, shorter geared trans, and basics make you hit 14s ez. heard that from HXGUY i dunnoe how he spelled/word it.

 

[nonvtecDA9]

oki that setup was in a 6th gen civic coupe, something close to the weight of an integra. of course you''ll hit lower times with a stripped to the bone vx/cx hatch but this was done on a NONvtec motor in a full interior coupe. but 12s & 13s with just that i think is a little of a stretch, maybe with a TWM manifold and race header not far of a stretch. but i kno for a fact cams and basic bolts on in a RS/LS/GS will really change how it feels.

 

[NOSed_b18b]

Actually, very far fetched should be the proper words.

 

[Ludist]

Umm....

Yeah... Well, about this whole gearing thing... I dont know where you get your information but it seems that White98LS has got a few points that seem to disprove your argument to say the least...

1. reducing you final drive by 12% will not "net you a 12% reduction in quarter mile times. Sorry. An engine's power band does not peak at the redline on most cars, and having shorter gearing will not necessarily put you in the prime power band.

2. getting traction would not result in a felt "14.78% increase in engine SIZE". yeah. As honda has proved repeatedly, engine size is not really a determining factor in performance. Yes "there is no replacement for displacement" but you can come pretty damn close with technology. Getting traction is always a factor, but you have to realize that just because you change the final drive by a certain percentage that does not directly translate to a certain change in you timeslip. It is not a direct linear relationship.

3. "However on the flip side you will also lose 15% of your top speed" Once again you are trying to assign a linear relationship to something that is clearly non linear. A car does not have a straightline graph that depicts what sort of power it makes. I'm sure you have seen a dyno graph so it is kind of ridiculous for me to describe it in detail here. In addition, as White98LS was saying, most cars do not max out their gearing achieving top speed. Cars are drag limited by aerodynamics and rolling resistance. Just reducing a car's gearing will not eliminate these factors, rather it might help to overcome them, as the car now may have a greater mechanical advantage, not really having an easily predictable effect on the top speed of the car. ie, its not just simple arithmetic here.

4. The points you made about the LS's top speed being 170 ish and the Viper being capable of 220 according to gearing just strengthens the position that I am taking. You yourself point to aerodynamic drag as the deciding factor. Logically, if you are not winding the car out as far as the gearing will allow, then realisticly if you lower that limit by 14.73% you will not see an equivalent 14.73% reduction in top speed.

I'm not trying to flame you or tell you that you are completly wrong, just that the percentages and numbers that you claim are optimistic at best. If it were really that simple to calculate what changing the gearing would do to the drivability and overall performance of the car everyone would be dialing in their ratios for their optimum mix. Clearly this is not the case. This is the fundemental flaw in your argument. There are performance benifits to be had from changing the gearing, but they are not as clear cut as you seem to present them.

Sorry for the long post.

Oh, and don't flame me for being a newbie, I have had plenty of posts under my belt, this just happens to be the first after I reregistered.

Thank you

Dan