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aight ppl, i've just gotten an 95 LS, i know nothing about integras

i used to have a civic, but thats not the point. i want to know if i want to make it into a Vtec wht head should i use?...the b16a? or b18 gsr head?
wht is the b16a head? the sir?
the b18 head is the gsr one rite?
wht head would be the better choice?
and wht else do i need w/the head in order for it to work perfectly??

thankz
 

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first off....
the B16A head is off either 1st or 2nd gen SiR's and also can be found in some Del sol's known as the B16A3
1 gen B16a1 or B17A(92-93 GSR)
2 gen B16A2
Del sol B16A3
Best used because of better flow through the head

and it will tell you on the head it self it should say above the exhaust ports PR3-1( 1 gen) PR3-2( 2nd gen ) PR3-3 ( 2nd Gen usdm delsol

the GSR head is a B18 head and it will also say above the exhaust ports P72
not good in the flow ports ... too restricted..

Type R P73 code

Perfrect flow through the ports...


your either better off getting a Type R head.... or if your low on doe get the B16 head and put the type r valvetrain in it, almost like a type R head.... just more affordable


also to get the head ot fit right you have to re-locate the dowlpins to the other side .. also tap the oil line and plug it.... get a machine shop to do all this stuff..... there experts in the field or doing that stuff...

go to : www.c-speedracing.com they have a good article about it
i think they got it from www.diyracing.com?? im not sure if that is the site they got it form... but c-speed has a better way of tell ing you.

hope that helps
 

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which ever you can get your hands on for reasonable price, but you also need the ecu for the head that you get. Type R head is the best I say, but it's spendy with ecu .make sure you get the whole assembly.:D
 

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B16

-good air flow characteristics
-capable of adding ITR intake manifold
-combustion chamber is not that tight to that of a b18c1

B18c1

-air flow characteristics are not that good as a B16
-Uses Dual-Stage IM, can be upgraded with a Single Stage IM(Skunk2 )
-combustion is tighter, which yields higher c/r

B18c5

-Hand p/p
-ITR valvetrain
-All around good flowing head

It all depends on you and the availability of the heads, most likely youll find a b16 head. All heads are commonly alike, they are different beacuse o the internals in the block.


*by randyman
 

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well im not to familair with ls/vtec, but just a question. wouldn't you have to replace the cams too? because isn't that what vtec is all about, switching over to a differn't set of cam lobs? and the ls cams dont have the lobs that you need? i am just curious about this because i always here people talking abotu the head and which is the best, but no one ever mentions cams.
 

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Shane said:
well im not to familair with ls/vtec, but just a question. wouldn't you have to replace the cams too? because isn't that what vtec is all about, switching over to a differn't set of cam lobs? and the ls cams dont have the lobs that you need? i am just curious about this because i always here people talking abotu the head and which is the best, but no one ever mentions cams.
yes...thats what you need vtec cams. The reason why people talk about which head to get is because that is the primary part of the ls/vtec setup. The head is what makes the big difference. If you see the graph above...its a b16vsb18c1 head with identical cams. Its not only the head, you're also forgetting the IM design. The one with single-staged runners or the one with dual-staged runners. Better air flow or tighter combustion area is what makes the difference and imprtance in which head to get with ls/vtec.


Adding different cams will make different power...but thats a whole new subject.
 

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i have a 2001 LS, and know a guy selling a 99 gsr head, are those a good match? good for added hp/reliablility?
 

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eppo said:
i have a 2001 LS, and know a guy selling a 99 gsr head, are those a good match? good for added hp/reliablility?
I have it on my setup...good head, and since its out might as well p/p it, upgrade the valvetrain, clean it up, many optons.And since its out you should concentrate on that could youll save time and money in the long run.
 

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sounds like a good idea, but i was wondering, i want the car to pass immissions inspection, so should i really change the cams, or are there some that i can get that will not make me run too rich to pass inspection. what are the pros and cons of port and polish?
 

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was also wondering what stuff on my car now will i have to replace when i get the new head, i know i will need a new intake manifold, would my AEM CAI still fit? would my greddy 4-2-1 headers still fit. want the head swap to go as smooth as possible.
 

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there sooo needs to be an ls/vtec sticky somewhere... this has been explained too many times.
 

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STUCK!!! by popular Demand...

Now, make it all as clear as possible and when I have more time I'll edit and add my own info.

A.
 

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YAAAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!!


way to go greyteg!!!!

all are in debt.


all hail 1 greyteg!!!
 

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rufus`` said:
YAAAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!!


way to go greyteg!!!!

all are in debt.


all hail 1 greyteg!!!
Good stuff...Im tired of seeing ls/vtec questions over and over again. *Jayman320 sighs...and goes to sleep*
 

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nice sticky greyteg! :) let's just hope that newbies inquiring for ls/vtec setups read these first before posting related topics.
 

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ls/vtec link on SHO


http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35349

"LS/VTEC Information:

**Things You'll Need for the Setup***
You will need atleast the following...
-Head Info
You must use a B-series DOHC VTEC head. A Prelude H-series head will NOT work.
You can choose a head from the following list by code....

--B16a1: thiss engine came in the 89-91 civic SiR and the Integra XSi in Japan. This is the easiest motor/head to use for 4th Gen civic (EF) swaps.
--B16a2/3: thiss USDM motor came in in the 94-97 DelSol (a3) and is still available in the 99+ Civic Si (a2). It was also available in Japan from 92+ in the Civic with 170hp compared to the USDM models' 160hp. It has upgraded pistons and slightly more aggressive cams when compared to the B16a1.
--B17a: came in the 92-93 USDM Integra GSR. This motor is kinda rare as it was only sold in 92 and 93, additionally it was only available to the US market. It is overall quite similar to the B16a engine with the exception that it is slightly stroked to achieve the 1700cc's. The B16a and B17a heads are VERY similar.
--B18c1: thiss came in the 94+ Integra GSR. A good head for raising compression due to its smaller combustion chambers(than the B16a), however it uses the dual-stage intake manifold which some people do not like and it is usually hard to find.
--B18c5: bettter know as the Type R or ITR. This head is very similar to the B16a head with the exception of mild port work and upgraded internals(ie. cams, valve springs, valves). Overall this is a strong engine and if you were ever to come by one, you should skip going LS/VTEC altogether because of its similar power potential.
--B16b: the Civic Type R or CTR. This engine is mainly a destroked ITR motor with further upgraded internals than the ITR(ie. high-comp pistons, more aggressive intake cam). This head most closely resembles the ITR head.


Either way, get the head of your choosing welded and machined by a machine shop. This involves welding the vtec oil galley closed and then decking the head to assure a flat surface. You must do this because the LS block does not have this galley as it was not originally intended as a VTEC engine. Welding and machining this oil galley closed will keep oil from sitting on the headgasket which could lead to a potential leak.

-New timing belt
This all depends on the water pump you go with. You 'SHOULD' go with the B16a/B18C water pump as it is superior to the B18a/b pump and will provide more cooling to the now higher revving motor setup. Either way if you use the B16a/B18C pump, then you should use the GSR timing belt. Why? Because the b16/B18c water pumps have more teeth on them which will cause the LS timing belt to misalign the crank with the respect to the cam gears at TDC. Thus if you use the LS water pump, then you should use the LS timing belt as the water pump has fewer teeth. This will assure that everything lines up properly at TDC.
So once again...
B16/B18c Water Pump ------> B18c Timing Belt
B18a/B18b Water Pump -----> B18a/B18b Timing Belt
**IMPORTANT** The B16a timing belt will NOT WORK with an LS/VTEC setup. I've tried myself on my own setup and it WONT WORK. The B16 block is physically 8mm shorter than the B18a/B18b block resulting in the inability to use the B16 timing belt in an LS/VTEC setup. Dont waste your time and money with this belt for it simply wont work.

-ECU Choiices
This will really depend on the year of car you are swapping into, AND how you want everything to work. Here are a few ECU options.
Option 1. For all of you 92-95 civic owners.
-IF you are swapping into a 92-95 (aka EGs) civic then you can have your stock P28 ECU chipped to run a DOHC VTEC ECU Program. This works very well and its cheaper than getting another ECU(unless you are getting the ECU included with a swap/motor purchase). I think JDMHondaParts does this, and if not you can also try Locash Racing
Option 2. For all of you 88-91 civic owners.
-There are a two ways that this can be done(maybe more). You can either use a b16a1 ECU which will work okay especially since it will take care of the vtec activation for you. OR you can use 90-91 Integra ECU with a shift light or rpm activated switch to operate the vtec solenoid. I dont recommend doing this as the Integra ECU reportedly does NOT plug into the EF harness like the B16a1 ECUs do just making the swap harder but you do what you have to when you need your car running ASAP.
Option 3. For all of you 96+ civic owners
All I can tell you is that you need to run ECU's within your generation. 6G civics(aka EKs) will need to run 96+ GSR ECUs OR 96+ B16a ECUs as far as i know due to the differences between OBD 1 and OBD 2.

For more information on ECU's, visit our reference section: http://www.hondaswap.com/reference/?mode=ecu

-External Oil Line
You will need an oil line running from the back of the block to somewhere on the head. This will substitute for the vtec oil galley which raises the oil pressure once vtec hits, to about 55psi.
Tap the block where the oil pressure sensor is on the back of the block with a 1/8" tap. Now here is where a few options come in.
Method 1. **Do this only to get the engine running if you dont have the funds or time to run stainless lines!**

(1) T-fitting with ONE Female and TWO Male thread sections with 1/8" NPT threads all the way around
(1) 90 Degree bent elbow fitting with an 1/8" NPT male thread
(1) Straight fitting with 1/8" NPT male thread
AND 3 feet of 3/8" fuel line for the hose which you can cut to fit.
(all parts above can be purchased at Pep Boys)


FOR THE BLOCK...

What you do is screw the t-fitting into the block. Use teflon tape to seal the piece at the block. Then screw the elbow fitting into the end of the T-fitting and use more teflon tape to seal. Now you can screw the Oil Pressure Sensor into the top of the T-fitting and again seal it with teflon. From hear you can run a rubber fuel line to the fitting in the head.
FOR THE HEAD...
You can tap the head just under the water neck. This works well but you might need to slightly modify the water neck to make room for the fitting. Again use the 1/8" NPT tap. Now screw the straight piece into the head and seal it. Here you can then run the 3/8" fuel line to the elbow piece at the block and use hose clamps to clamp it off.

Draw Backs to Method 1
Reason 1. Running the hose clamps on the fuel line and fittings, two times the clamps have loosened causing an oil leak on my own setup. I havent had the problem however, since re-tightening the clamps.
Reason 2. There is a possibility that the t fitting will break due to stress. This would be a nice thing to avoid which is why I recommend stainless braided hoses and fittings.

Method 2.HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
-Run Stainless Steel Braided hoses and fittings which can all be purchased through Summit Racing
. But use -4AN Line with 1/8" NPT threaded fittings. Here is how they SHOULD be run.
-Use a straight piece at the block thiss time and then run into the braided line. take this line to the firewall bolt it up somewhere and THEN use a T-fitting. There you can screw in the Oil Pressure Sensor and run the Stainless line to the head where another piece will sit. THIS will prevent BOTH of the above problems from happening to you.


-Head Gasket
You need to use the B18a/B18b head gasket. Because the B18a/B18b block doesnt have the vtec oil galley like the b16a and b18c heads do, it can cause a potential oil leak if you use the vtec head gasket. Stay away from them and run the LS gasket instead.

-DOHC VTEC Head Bolts
GSR or B16a bolts will work, but old bolts can break after repeated use so recommend upgrading to new factory OEM bolts OR ARP bolts.

**Suggested** -Upgrade the water pump to a b16/b18c uunit
-Balance the rotating assembly(ie. crannk, crank pulley, and flywheel)
-Replace the main and rod bearings
-Replace all gaskets with new ones(ie. head gasket, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold, and oil pan)

***Recommended*** If you plan on going NA, then GET RID of the POS LS pistons as your CR will only be around 9.6:1(with a b16a head) and the LS pistons have hardly any valve reliefs at all meaning you cant run larger cams(Toda, JUN) like you will want to eventually because of piston to valve contact which can result. Otherwise this might be a nice build for a low boosted turbo setup.

->Piston INFO
Here are a few Compression Ratios relating to B16a heads on LS/VTECs courtesy of some calculating done by David Newman of the Hybrid Boards in an email he sent me...
"Well, first off, with what I've figured out in the past, compression ratios go for the following with LS/VTEC motors:

9.6:1 - P74 LS Pistons
10.0:1 - P72 GSR Pistons
10.8:1 - P73 US ITR Pistons
11.0:1 - P73 JDM ITR Pistons
11.5:1 - PR3 Pistons
11.7:1 - P30 Pistons
12.4:1 - CTR Pistons

And that is with a 'stock' B18A/B block using B18A/B rods, and any B16A head (compression ratios between the different B16A generation heads are very nominal)."


I strongly encourage experienced engine builders to this swap only."
 
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