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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all :) My first post in these forums.

Ok, I just bought my daughter an automatic !991 Integra LS for her first car. It seemed to be going ok when we got it, though the previous owner said that sometimes "it lost revs", usually when stopping at lights etc. I assumed it was an air or fuel issue that could be easily fixed.

Anyway, the car started passing out completely within a week or so. Just every now and then it would stop, usually when hot eg been for a drive, turned it off, and restarted soon after.

Quite dangerous, since it gave no warning and passed out under various driving conditions.

We gave the thing an amateur service (oil, coolant, transmission fluid, replaced fuel and air filter) but no joy.

Finally we threw it on a friend of my son's diagnostic computer. It gave back the code for faulty map sensor. We weren't sure that we'd be able to get one and so just rebooted the onboard computer. This actually seemed to fix the car for about a week, but then it went back to the way it was, probably worse actually.

Anyway, I finally managed to get a new map sensor (correct for the car (auto, a/c etc) and installed it with a computer reboot. Part was nearly 500 bucks Australian. Ouch...:cry

The car seemed to be fine for a few days but is now passing out again as before. Diagnostic is again faulty map sensor.

So, I'm at a loss what to do. All up I've spent a bit of money now on this little car. It flies when it's operational, but is simply too dangerous for my daughter to drive.

Any ideas???

All input appreciated!

Cheers!
 

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Do you know the actual code the ECU was throwing? Sometimes a faulty mass-air sensor code can come up when you actually have a faulty O2 sensor(s).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So, I've been doing a little homework....

Seems as though I probably wasted my money buying a new map sensor for this car since the 'map sensor' error code seems to be kinda generic for 'electrical problem'...

Anyway, last night I drove the car until it passed out. Normally when this happens the car won't start again until it's cooled a little, mebbe 5-10 minutes. However, what I did was take a wet cloth (and a bottle of water) with me and wiped the distributor down to cool it a few degrees. The car started immediately whenever I did this. The intervals between the drive passing out got shorter and shorter (as it got hotter, obviously) but, as I say, if I managed to cool the distributor a little each time the car would actually start.

So, hot distributor seems a definite symptom.

Ignition module???
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My gut feeling is that it is indeed the ignition module, but I can't be absolutely sure.

Problem is, price for a genuine Honda distributor (whole assembly) in Australia is $1481... Just the module itself, $376.

After-market price is about a third, but I know how absolutely specific these parts need to be...

Thinking of walking away from this car, which would be a pity. It's only done 160k kilometers, absolutely flies when it's going, and is otherwise in immaculate condition. But the price for parts in this country is staggering. A top radiator hose, for example, just recently cost me $66.
 

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My gut feeling is that it is indeed the ignition module, but I can't be absolutely sure.

Problem is, price for a genuine Honda distributor (whole assembly) in Australia is $1481... Just the module itself, $376.

After-market price is about a third, but I know how absolutely specific these parts need to be...

Thinking of walking away from this car, which would be a pity. It's only done 160k kilometers, absolutely flies when it's going, and is otherwise in immaculate condition. But the price for parts in this country is staggering. A top radiator hose, for example, just recently cost me $66.
jesus.

You cant junkyard source one or anything? And nothing wrong with going aftermarket if its cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
jesus.

You cant junkyard source one or anything? And nothing wrong with going aftermarket if its cheaper.


"jesus" is right. I looked on the web at what you guys would pay for the same part and spotted one for $250, so about 375 Australian.

Imported 4x4s are common in this country, because they're relatively cheap for some reason, but mostly people own locally made GM and Ford variants, and parts for those are inexpensive.

I've emailed every specialist Honda recycler in the country (there are only 6-7) and have only yet had a single reply. No joy. I'll start trying some local generalist wreckers just in case.

The after-market distributor quote I got was $491, so still a bit pricey for a guess. They don't stock the ignition module only.

*sigh*

Quote for a genuine module was $376, as i think I noted above.

What would you guys do? Grab the genuine module or the after-market distributor. I've already spent a bit of money on the car but might be up for another $400 or so. Though if I go for it, and it doesn't fix it, you guys will hear my aaaarrrrgggghhhh!!!!! all the way over there :)

Cheers!
 

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you can easily test the ICM. really easy. although, not sure if it would indicate faulty or not. Just the fact that it works till it overheats. But test it anyway. You will need a multimeter and the manual which you can find on the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
you can easily test the ICM. really easy. although, not sure if it would indicate faulty or not. Just the fact that it works till it overheats. But test it anyway. You will need a multimeter and the manual which you can find on the internet.

Cheers, mate :)

That'd be the 'Haynes' manual, right?

I haven't been messing with the car at all this week, though I did find out that the previous owner had installed an alarm/immobilser, which had been causing her some grief ie alarm used to just go off randomly. She'd just cut the wire to the alarm speaker/horn thingie. We don't get any lights when the thing shuts down but perhaps that's the problem.

Anyway, my son knows an autoelec who, hopefully, will pull out the alarm/immobiliser and give the thing a general eyeball.

I WILL fix this thing....

Thanks for your reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
@ mattlison: Great link, bro. Thanks a bunch :) Shipping (to my door presumably) is actually $65 but that's only to be expected, and quite reasonable. So all up that'll make it $230 US, about 350 bucks Australian, which is way cheaper than the best quote I've had here ($491).

We'll diss the immobiliser/alarm just as a matter of course, but I'm almost certain (from my own experiments, and reading I've done) that the problem is distributor related.

Thanks again, mate. Appreciate it. I'll recharge my paypal account ;)


@ CapnToll; Mate, as I said via PM, you're a freakin' legend. I grabbed the manual you uploaded and it's sure to be handy indeed despite the model differences. Theory is theory, and as you pointed out differences should be readily identifiable.
I had a quick squizz at it and feel certain it will be invaluable. I owe ya :)

Pretty cool forums you guys have got rockin' here. Goodonyas!
 

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Glad to help :btu PM me for my paypal for donations :lol
 

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really hope you can get this up and running now.

I say, I have a spare dizzy, a shame it wouldn't work with your car, otherwise I would have sold it to ya.

I'm still in awe at the price of parts there tho, WOW
 

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its because almost EVERYTHING is imported
 
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