i got a set of DSD216 components and the DTC169 6x9 and running it on a MTX4202 2ch amp. i connected one side to a channel and the other side to the other channel. Right now the treble have that tinny sound and the bass is too flat. what can i do to help the treble and the bass?
MB Quarts hurts my ears
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Joined
·
1,685 Posts
Well, you can switch the xover point on the tweeters, but there are no mid adjustment levels on the xovers. An EQ would help you out a great deal.
Joined
·
1,531 Posts
MB quarts are known for their super high tweets. Try messing with the settings on the X over and your deck to get them down.
Joined
·
604 Posts
Also, make sure that they are wired in phase. If not, the bass response will be very weak.
Joined
·
604 Posts
Ok, here's how I'll help you out... tonight (10/9) when I get off work I'll rip a track off of a disc that I have called "Audio Toolbox" produced by Pandisc. It's a bass sweep from 1hz to 50hz I believe. On the disc, 1second on the time corresponds to 1hz, 2sec=2hz and so on. Hopefully, the time/frequency will record properly on a CD burner. You may need to record a dummy track as track 1 since some burners/software requre a 2second pause before the first track... so make it the second track, just set your pause to 0 sec.
Turn the power up until you can see the cones move in and out slowly; not too much power since the coils won't like much of this! What you'll do is make sure the cones are all synchronized with each other (they're all moving in and out at the same time). You might need a friend to check your rear speakers as you feel/watch the fronts and same with your subs.
This is also a good way to check the resonant frequency of your car: you'll notice that the bass will become very tight at a certain range of frequencies.
This file will be posted on my website as:
http://webpages.charter.net/pupascoopa/sweep.mp3
Turn the power up until you can see the cones move in and out slowly; not too much power since the coils won't like much of this! What you'll do is make sure the cones are all synchronized with each other (they're all moving in and out at the same time). You might need a friend to check your rear speakers as you feel/watch the fronts and same with your subs.
This is also a good way to check the resonant frequency of your car: you'll notice that the bass will become very tight at a certain range of frequencies.
This file will be posted on my website as:
http://webpages.charter.net/pupascoopa/sweep.mp3
Joined
·
604 Posts
It's ready!
orite...i gota new amp... a 6ch PPI PC650 that i bought froma friend. if i ran all my speakers (MBQ compnents & 6x9's) plus a 12" cerwin vega, how do you think it'll sound? will i be losin power? i just want a good enough sound like the Lexus LS400 w/ Nakamichi has.
Joined
·
604 Posts
It's a system setup tool. Play it on a disc and watch the speaker cones move in and out. Make sure all the speakers are moving in and out in sync. If they are not, they are out of phase. If they're out of phase you'll get crummy bass/midbass response. Disable any subsonic filter you may have since that'll prevent your system from playing that low.
Sometimes wiring gets switched around during the install, it happens. Simply swap the pos/neg outputs from your head unit or amp to revers the phase and correct any problems.
I bet it'll sound awesome!
with high end (more accurate) speakers you pretty much NEED an EQ. I would recomend a phoenix gold 15 or 30 band EQ. I had the same problem with a pair of Focal Utopia components. The tweeters are savage. As for your bass problem. If your phase is correct, try sounddeadening. it might liven things up a bit.
Why would you need an EQ with more accurate speakers? Seems counter intuitive doesn't it? The whole point of buying more expensive speakers is to get better response from them.01gsr said:
What you need (with any speaker) is to work on the instalation -- proper location choice, enclosure design, and proper crossover point and slope selection....as you force a driver to play across a wider range of frequencies it will require more EQ to smooth the response.
Now, I'm not saying that signal processing is worthless or that it's not used with high end drivers....what I am saying is that unless you know what you are doing, you are probably wasting your time.....things get even messier if you are using a parametric instead of a graphic EQ. EQ's are fine tuning equipment, not the wonder box that will correct poor speaker placement, incorrect mounting, phase and path length problems, or poorly selected crossover points and set gains.
Focal tweeters are known to be a bit "lively" Some people confuse this with accuracy, personally, I call them artificial.
I've owned a PG EQ230 and the matching MX3i....I found them to be a total pain to tune....breath on them, and their voltage would change...setting gains with them can be a bear...they also were not totally transparent when they were defeated. Not saying that they are bad pieces, but there are far more analog eq's out there that I would select in their place.
01gsr said:
Now I'm really confused, you like an EQ so that you can make your system less accurate? That's the opposite of what an EQ is intended to do, but it's your ears, your system......personally I strive for accurate reproduction of what the live performance/recording session would have sounded like...but hey, that's just me
This is making less and less sense - is anyone else confused?
Joined
·
604 Posts
When you listen to music in your car without any EQ with your head unit's bass/treble set to 0; the sound will not be flat. What I mean by flat is if you put a real-time analyzer (RTA) in your car while playing some white noise (sounds like static that plays across the entire range from 20hz to 20khz) you'll see some regions that are louder and some that are softer.
If you want the most accurate sound quality, you'll strive to make everything flat. With an EQ and RTA (while playing white noise), you can can boost or cut certain frequencies to accomplish this.
If you want the most accurate sound quality, you'll strive to make everything flat. With an EQ and RTA (while playing white noise), you can can boost or cut certain frequencies to accomplish this.
rcurley55 said:Now I'm really confused, you like an EQ so that you can make your system less accurate? That's the opposite of what an EQ is intended to do, but it's your ears, your system......personally I strive for accurate reproduction of what the live performance/recording session would have sounded like...but hey, that's just me
This is making less and less sense - is anyone else confused?
Have you ever heard a system tuned perfectly flat using an RTA?PupaScoopa said:
They sound like SH!T.......NO ONE tunes their systems perfectly flat...why? They sound unnatural. The goal of RTA testing is to provide a baseline or a starting point for your tuning.
The goal is not to create a flat line across an RTA, the goal is to have smooth transitions. An EQ is there to adjust for peaks and irregularities in the system's response. For example, IASCA Street competitors are tested to see that there are no band-to-band deviations greater then 6dB and that all 30 bands are visible...that's it.
Keep in mind that many competitors have separate EQ settings, or even additional EQ's to pass this RTA test. Why? Because they can make their car sound better without trying to get a perfect RTA curve at the same time.
If a system tuned flat to an RTA also sounded the best, why would all of these competitors go through the trouble of adding more eqipment or making changes to thier gear on the fly?
Need more evidence? IASCA will be dropping the RTA portion on the score sheet. Why? Two main reasons....the first, not all shops have an RTA on hand....this means that more shops can hold contests, exposing more people to the "sport" The second reason....an RTA is a terrible judge of SQ. With the new format that allows you to make adjustments between stations, it has become a pointless test.
Remember, an RTA is a tool, not a subjective test of a system's sound quality. Trust your ears!!!
BTW, it's called Pink noise, not white noise.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
