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Discussion Starter #1
im putting together a d16y6 with a 16y8 with /i/h/e port and polish head,zex cam, 7lb flywheel, obx intake manifold, gude 70mm thottle body and d16a1 (zc p29)pistons and rods, i need some tips on what else i should do and not to do whe building a high compression engine?

which rods are better to use d16a1 or d16y6 ? do i have to change stuff like water pump and oil pump ? rings ? the block is in good condition only has 70,000 miles on it
 

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Sounds good. what car is the d16y6 on? with that high of compression you may have detonation of pump gas, not sure. look in to air/fuel ratio tuning, ignition timing. i'm not sure about the d16a1 piston swap, i know it will take compression up a bit. you might want to look in to fuel upgrades like fpr, or rail, or something an air/fuel raito will help but it's hard say with all the mods you have to say with fuel upgrade is the best.
 

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mclean987 said:
im putting together a d16y6 with a 16y8 with /i/h/e port and polish head,zex cam, 7lb flywheel, obx intake manifold, gude 70mm thottle body and d16a1 (zc p29)pistons and rods, i need some tips on what else i should do and not to do whe building a high compression engine?

which rods are better to use d16a1 or d16y6 ? do i have to change stuff like water pump and oil pump ? rings ? the block is in good condition only has 70,000 miles on it

Dude,, there is no such thing as a Y6. there is a A6, and a Z6,, but no Y6.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: Re: mini me setup

infinatenexus said:
Dude,, there is no such thing as a Y6. there is a A6, and a Z6,, but no Y6.
oops my bad u are write i never even noticed what i was saying its a z6 but hey can you help me out with my questions ?

im putting together a d16y6 with a 16y8 with /i/h/e port and polish head,zex cam, 7lb flywheel, obx intake manifold, gude 70mm thottle body and d16a1 (zc p29)pistons and rods, i need some tips on what else i should do and not to do whe building a high compression engine?

which rods are better to use d16a1 or d16y6 ? do i have to change stuff like water pump and oil pump ? rings ? the block is in good condition only has 70,000 miles on it
 

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Discussion Starter #5
also which rings should i use ? stock ones or others ? which head gasket ? stock d16y8 ? or cometic head gasket any good ? can i use 1 layer and make compression even higher ?
 

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get rid of the obx manifold and stick with the y8 manifold.
use stock rings because they seal just as well as any aftermarket rings.
the a6 or zc rods will be fine.
forget the 70mm gude throttle body... you won't see any benefit from it. get a b18a/b throttle body it's plenty big.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
5gencivic said:
get rid of the obx manifold and stick with the y8 manifold.
use stock rings because they seal just as well as any aftermarket rings.
the a6 or zc rods will be fine.
forget the 70mm gude throttle body... you won't see any benefit from it. get a b18a/b throttle body it's plenty big.
damn thats sucks man you bursted my bubbles, so the y8 manifold would actually be better than the obx ? i thought that because it was shorter it woulkd be better, and the gude 70mm throttle body is crap ? but the b18a/b is only like 62 the most, which rods are better the d6z6 or d16a6, i was reading somewhere that the zc rods are made of different material ? and one is stronger ?
 

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sorry for bursting your bubble.
the obx manifolds are complete shit. just take my word for it. the design phase in that piece was all of ten minutes. those ten minutes were divided between getting the thing to bolt up correctly, getting the throttle body to adapt correctly and thinking about hot women naked while having sex with other hot naked women.
remember that bigger isn't always better. much like the exhaust problem where putting a 3 inch exhaust on a 1.6L honda motor doesn't get you crap unless it's turbo charged, a huge intake tract does the same thing. you're trying to keep velocity up.
and i'd say a6 rods because mine are over 150k miles old and they're taking 7200 rpm all the damn time.
 

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Hey what's up. Just out of curiousity, you already have a z6 but are swapping to a Y8 head? Not to burst your bubble but since someone else already did, that doesn't seem worth it. If you don't have VTEC and are going streetable all-motor then Y8 is good, but to spend on upgrading from the Z6 head isn't much value especially when you're swapping cams too.

Get some money back on that 70mm t/b and get something like a 62mm or so. Don't feel bad about the advice, think of it as opportunity to recover some money and get more parts, or spend on a p&p for the z6 head.

You won't need a thinner gasket with A1 pistons, you'll already get 12:1 c/r which you'll likely need ECU tuning to run on pump gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
klungemonger said:
Hey what's up. Just out of curiousity, you already have a z6 but are swapping to a Y8 head? Not to burst your bubble but since someone else already did, that doesn't seem worth it. If you don't have VTEC and are going streetable all-motor then Y8 is good, but to spend on upgrading from the Z6 head isn't much value especially when you're swapping cams too.

Get some money back on that 70mm t/b and get something like a 62mm or so. Don't feel bad about the advice, think of it as opportunity to recover some money and get more parts, or spend on a p&p for the z6 head.

You won't need a thinner gasket with A1 pistons, you'll already get 12:1 c/r which you'll likely need ECU tuning to run on pump gas.
good 2 see you klunge this site wad down for so long man anyway i already have a d15b with a d16y8 head on it and you said that the zc pistons couldnt work so im getting another 1.6 block now, thanks for all the advice, i already have port and polish head and a zex cam and an obx intake manifold, 7lb flywheel, stage 2 clutch, and 70mm throttle body which im contemplating putting on now so if i have every mod and zc pistons i still wouldnt be able to use this 70mm ? what kind of application is it for then turbo ? and how much do they sell for ? it came from gude
 

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It's not like you can't use it, I would just think one somewhere in the middle of what you've got and what stock is would be better. An ITR stock t/b is only like 64mm or something similar. And the flow of the head is much better, bigger valves, etc. The power you make will be from compression, not so much volume, so you need to be balanced in how you set your flow up. Your engine won't ask for as much air as a 1.8L or a 2.2L no matter what cam or pistons you put in it. You want to make sure you can flow what it demands but also do it fast enough. Too large of a t/b will allow the volume of air through but let it come through slowly. It's sort of like how an exhaust can be tuned to "scavenge" fumes, the pulse actually helps draw exhaust out. That's why AEM intake pipes are better than most others, they are smaller diameter, more suited to the flow demands of a D-series.
 

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5gencivic said:
sorry for bursting your bubble.
the obx manifolds are complete shit. just take my word for it. the design phase in that piece was all of ten minutes. those ten minutes were divided between getting the thing to bolt up correctly, getting the throttle body to adapt correctly and thinking about hot women naked while having sex with other hot naked women.
Why don't you like the Obx IM? Is it because it is made by obx or because it isn't worth it? Would a venom IM be any better? Are you seriously saying the y8 is better than both of them.
 

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fivepointhustla said:
Why don't you like the Obx IM? Is it because it is made by obx or because it isn't worth it? Would a venom IM be any better? Are you seriously saying the y8 is better than both of them.
People don't trust much in mass-market manufacturers. In all likelihood the OBX was not designed using flow-testing equipment, probaby just designed to fit the car, be larger and look nice. Top companies develop parts with machines that show them whether or not they're actually making gains over stock. Lots of research involved with trial and error. Plus they use castings instead of welded tubes so your coolant passages are still there.

Other performance manifolds are expensive because they have to recuperate the money put into research and tooling for the products. OBX is simply different diameter tubing welded together on a jig. So iin the end, I suppose it's possible OBX could offer a performance gain, but I don't think anyone's tested it, and since they probably don't even know it it offers performance gains it would be pure coincidence if it really does.
 

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klungemonger said:
Z6 or Y8 are the best stock ones period. The low/mid is good since the runners aren't too huge, but with a nice size plenum to maintain volume on the top end. Everyone knows the best stock manifold is the Y8 though.
I know that you've told me that a million times, but I meant after market.
 

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klungemonger said:
JG/Edelbrock & Skunk2 probably. I think the Edelbrock one offers nitrous ports though, so that's an added bonus.

yeah, you have the option of buying a manifold with 4 additional injector bosses already welded in on the edelbrock manifold.... the skunk2 and edelbrock manifolds are nearly identical after comparing them side by side.
 

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I think Edelbrock's actually tilts the t/b flange forward a little so it's on an angle to smooth the transition from the intake into the t/b. Don't know how that affects all the intake pipes made for stock location t/b though, or what happens to the throttle cable. Maybe it's subtle enough not to cause a ripple effect...
 
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