it depends on what you want... you wanna eventually go FI, or stay all motor... the ls block would be nice with turbo... but it all depends....
modified B18C1 vs B18C5
I have a 95 GS-R. I have been thinking about swapping out my block and putting in a LS block. Ive heard that the LS block will increase my torque and let me compete with Type R's. Ive heard some say that the modified engine will beat a Type R. but Im not sure bout that. So, what do you guys think? Do u think the GS-R would be better than a R?
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I wouldn't mess with a good thing. You have a good setup now. Instead of swapping blocks with a LS, why don't you spend the money on some higher CR pistons and some cams. You will be surprised with the results.
If you bump your compression up two points and got some agressive cams in there you could take type r's.
If you bump your compression up two points and got some agressive cams in there you could take type r's.
I own a slightly modded GSR, here is my dyno. keep in mind this is actual wheel horsepower. A stock Type r produces 160-165 HP at the wheels. With the addition of Cams, adjustable gears and Skunk intake i believe it will be easy to hit 180+ at the wheels. this is well over a type R at a huge cost savings. initial investment 18000 out the door price. approx 1500 in mods so far. From a cost perspective mod what you got.. you wont be sorry.
im sorry but im not buying that dyno comment in your sig with those mods. . .
195 at the wheels with those mods. . . there is no way in the world. those are not corrected figures.
if so then you the absolute best whp gains i have ever seen in my life.
considering your car ususually puts out about 150 or so at the wheels.
either you got something else on that thing your not telling or those are uncorrected figures. (flywheel or crank horsepower)
195 at the wheels with those mods. . . there is no way in the world. those are not corrected figures.
if so then you the absolute best whp gains i have ever seen in my life.
considering your car ususually puts out about 150 or so at the wheels.
either you got something else on that thing your not telling or those are uncorrected figures. (flywheel or crank horsepower)
just out of curiosity..the dyno charts show that you have 162whp...and yet you list (im assuming) crank hp at 195..but you put, dyno tuned....
dyno tuned would be whp numbers..notice my sig, it says untuned but those are the whp numbers...I dont go put 215 hp dyno tuned...I mean, its your sig, you can do what you want, but its just very misleading to many...
decent dyno tho....
and hell no, dont get rid of your block for an ls....if you had an ls, yeah it would be worth it to get a vtec head, but please god you could just overbore your block or go with higher compression pistons..
dyno tuned would be whp numbers..notice my sig, it says untuned but those are the whp numbers...I dont go put 215 hp dyno tuned...I mean, its your sig, you can do what you want, but its just very misleading to many...
decent dyno tho....
and hell no, dont get rid of your block for an ls....if you had an ls, yeah it would be worth it to get a vtec head, but please god you could just overbore your block or go with higher compression pistons..
definitely stick with the gsr block, no doubt about it. if you want a torque monster go b20 or sleeve it. i have b20 hybrid and there are small headaches and sacrifices made with a hybrid. for the extra 40cc its not worth the cost of the block and conversion, your money will go farther in other areas.
leave ls hybrids in the ls integras.
leave ls hybrids in the ls integras.
if your going to rip aprart your motor block...i would just get the LS or CRV block and throw on the head..and work with the longer strokes...*more torque*
but if you motor is good and it runs well...then dont bother to rip it apart...just throw on the mods..and if you really want to run with the "R".
take you head off and take to a machine shop and port polish it...and you will get a extra 30-40.....and if you have headers, intake, and exhaust...you have a nice setup there....
LS/VTEC's are always being put down by people.(i am used to it from GSR owners, till they step to the plate..LOL)..only becuase some dont take the time to build it properly and when it BLOWS, they spit at the whole idea.
remember no matter what engine u build...it has to be dun properly.
your main objective is to run with the "R", you have to think like it...the R has a much better mod head intake manifold, and headers...so ..take it from there............
later
but if you motor is good and it runs well...then dont bother to rip it apart...just throw on the mods..and if you really want to run with the "R".
take you head off and take to a machine shop and port polish it...and you will get a extra 30-40.....and if you have headers, intake, and exhaust...you have a nice setup there....
LS/VTEC's are always being put down by people.(i am used to it from GSR owners, till they step to the plate..LOL)..only becuase some dont take the time to build it properly and when it BLOWS, they spit at the whole idea.
remember no matter what engine u build...it has to be dun properly.
your main objective is to run with the "R", you have to think like it...the R has a much better mod head intake manifold, and headers...so ..take it from there............
later
aiight heres my catch on this if you want to run with the R you have to decide BEFORE modifyin ya ride are you goin all motor or FI. i went through 6 motors already ls, 3 ls vtecs and im on my 2nd gsr turbo. at 8psi stock block stock cams i had 216 hp and 196 tq at the wheels, right there im eatin R's for breakfast now im puttin je pistons crower rods and nuformz block guard arp headstuds and runnin 16 psi daily and 20 at the track with race gas, i should hit 11's once my LSD is installed it is easier to go FI than all motor. all motor take alot of patience and money, turbo is cheap and lots of hp its all up to you man
jay~~
jay~~
There ya go bro.. changed my Sig just for you.
first response: slapping on the head doesnt just happen, youre losing the oil sprayers in the bottom end, youre taking a risk of an oil leak that could ruin the whole setup, and if its not done right youll probably have nightmares.
longer stroke causes higher piston speeds which will lower your redline. for the 40 cc id rather spend the money from the conversion and block on a cam setup, raised redlines are more fun to drive in my opinion. but if you want the torque get something with a bigger bore, not just a longer stroke.
second: turbos are great if they are setup right, otherwise youll go through motors. a daily driven turbo car will cost big bucks unless youre willing to deal with all the shit involved in basic setups. turbos also make big power numbers, but whats important are 1/4 mile times. look into that instead of peak power and youll be surprised.
longer stroke causes higher piston speeds which will lower your redline. for the 40 cc id rather spend the money from the conversion and block on a cam setup, raised redlines are more fun to drive in my opinion. but if you want the torque get something with a bigger bore, not just a longer stroke.
second: turbos are great if they are setup right, otherwise youll go through motors. a daily driven turbo car will cost big bucks unless youre willing to deal with all the shit involved in basic setups. turbos also make big power numbers, but whats important are 1/4 mile times. look into that instead of peak power and youll be surprised.
didnt mean to be a dick about the sig man...keep it like you want it..no hard feelings..
as for the 30-40 whp off of headwork, I can tell you right now it aint happenin...look for 7-10whp for a good port job..but then again, it also depends on the rest of your mods...
Good luck
as for the 30-40 whp off of headwork, I can tell you right now it aint happenin...look for 7-10whp for a good port job..but then again, it also depends on the rest of your mods...
Good luck
sorry about that...a machine shop around where i live said if i bring my head and $350, he will add 30-40 HP....i honestly dont know what he was going to do..so i cant argue that.IntegD said:
as for the 30-40 whp off of headwork, I can tell you right now it aint happenin...look for 7-10whp for a good port job.
and a customer at the shop where i work, through us sent his head to the machine shop. so i am waiting to see the results.
My GSR will smoke a type R. I would just build the gsr motor, because it is a great motor to build on.
yea man ill give you that , that is a great motor to go fi on .
just the right compression . ive seen some really impressive c1's before ,. they were all boosted, but they were very impressive
if i were to do it again i would have either kept my ls and went turbo or got a gsr and went turbo .
i will have a harder time doing that with my r .. .. i cant complain though with a few mods i was easliy in the 13's all day and with the bottle just in case, im in the 12's garunteed.
so i cant really complain that much , i just wont turbo this one , . . . damn guess i gotta get a hatch and put a boosted c1 in it .
just the right compression . ive seen some really impressive c1's before ,. they were all boosted, but they were very impressive
if i were to do it again i would have either kept my ls and went turbo or got a gsr and went turbo .
i will have a harder time doing that with my r .. .. i cant complain though with a few mods i was easliy in the 13's all day and with the bottle just in case, im in the 12's garunteed.
so i cant really complain that much , i just wont turbo this one , . . . damn guess i gotta get a hatch and put a boosted c1 in it .
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