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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last summer I raced what I think was an early 90's Civic hatch (sorry I dont kno my Honda's very well) that supposedly had a B18 swap. The car was very loud and I was afraid I was gonna get killed (my Stang is basically stock), but I ended up killing him by nearly a second and a half (see timeslip, Im the left lane)... so my question is, are B18-swapped hatches supposed to be faster than this one was? Are there different variations of the B18? Im just curious but any answers would be appreciated!
 

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Welcome to SHO. The B18B makes 130 or 140 horsepower (depending on the year) and the B18C makes 170 to 180 horsepower, depending on whether it is USDM or JDM. A B18C swapped Civic will usually run high 13s to low 14s and will beat a stock 5.0 Mustang. These are generally crappy times if you consider yourself a drag racer, which is why most B18 Civics are tuned around their 4 wheel double wishbone suspension.
 

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Yes you got lucky. There is several different types of b series motors. And if you beat a hatch with b series it was either one of the watered down versions or it wasen't running right
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All right thanks! My guess is it was prolly one of the less powerful versions if anything... cuz I kno those hatches can be wicked fast and my Stang isnt anything special so I was pretty surprised to beat him as bad as I did!
 

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I have heard that 5.0 Mustangs can hit tens and do wheelies with only a few thousand dollars in mods. You really cannot build a faster car for the price. Once you have a decent income, you should get a Civic daily driver and mod the hell out of the Mustang.
 

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Very Very true. The only thing I fear is GOD and a Mustang Cobra that has a little work done to it. They dont play, for the money they cant be beat. When and if they get cheaper I will buy one.
 

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Yeah, there are tons of factors with this or any other scenario. Weight, driver skill/lack of skill, what chassis it was in, and of course if it was a watered-down older version, or a newer one, running condition of the car, etc. You take an EG (92-95 hatch, like a cv, or vx w/o powersteering, ac and the sunroof liek on the Si) and it's a 2048lb car. you can strip it out, lexan, seat/s, and have a 1800lb car, and drop in say an all-motor b18c1 (Integra GSR) motor, with slugs, rings, rods, good tune, good clutch and all, and if you know how to drive, turn out (estimated) high 12's, a friend of mine had an H23 block w/ an H22 head, all motor, in said chassis and ran high to mid 12's all day long. Way too many factors to take into account if you are going off what happened with one pass.
 

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Yeah, there are tons of factors with this or any other scenario. Weight, driver skill/lack of skill, what chassis it was in, and of course if it was a watered-down older version, or a newer one, running condition of the car, etc. You take an EG (92-95 hatch, like a cv, or vx w/o powersteering, ac and the sunroof liek on the Si) and it's a 2048lb car. you can strip it out, lexan, seat/s, and have a 1800lb car, and drop in say an all-motor b18c1 (Integra GSR) motor, with slugs, rings, rods, good tune, good clutch and all, and if you know how to drive, turn out (estimated) high 12's, a friend of mine had an H23 block w/ an H22 head, all motor, in said chassis and ran high to mid 12's all day long. Way too many factors to take into account if you are going off what happened with one pass.
nicely said
 

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nicely said
thx. I was gonna be doing a gsr swapped EK this summer, but I decided against it. I have gotten lazy and/or broke. Too many factors to deal with with my schedule, so I'm just gonna go del Sol VTEC. :D
 

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ima drop a type-r in a civic dx but idk wat 2 do with the ecu bcuz im not gonna waste my money on turbo or nos i rather jus tune it ya tu sabe all motor
Damn, you're gonna get a Type R motor to build-up? Why? Just go with a GSR motor, or a LS block and build from there, why would you pay the money for the ITR motor only to replace parts?
 

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Damn, you're gonna get a Type R motor to build-up? Why? Just go with a GSR motor, or a LS block and build from there, why would you pay the money for the ITR motor only to replace parts?
not gonna build it up just gonna get sum adjustable cams, underdrive pulleys, toda timingbelt, race IM, new sparks plugs/wires, hks exhaust, cold air intake, and tune it but i donk know if i shud go with tha hondata s100 or obd1 conversion :huh
 

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not gonna build it up just gonna get sum adjustable cams, underdrive pulleys, toda timingbelt, race IM, new sparks plugs/wires, hks exhaust, cold air intake, and tune it but i donk know if i shud go with tha hondata s100 or obd1 conversion :huh
What is the mentality behind the Toda timing belt?

You get the best gains when upgrading the entire airflow system at once. You should port the head, port the TB, and get a replica Hytech header.

I thought the S100 only worked with OBD-1.
 

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What is the mentality behind the Toda timing belt?

You get the best gains when upgrading the entire airflow system at once. You should port the head, port the TB, and get a replica Hytech header.

I thought the S100 only worked with OBD-1.
s100 works with obd0 and obd1, the timing belt is finished i jus noticed that this morning and ive never ported the head or TB so how much u think that will cost me?:ninja
 

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s100 works with obd0 and obd1, the timing belt is finished i jus noticed that this morning and ive never ported the head or TB so how much u think that will cost me?:ninja
I have been wondering the same thing. Energy Dynamics has been porting B series heads for years and their work keeps improving. They recently built a B18c with a GSR head to 310 crank horsepower on pump gas. Their prices start at $795.
Energy Dynamics

I can't afford it either.
 

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ima have to check that out i did sum research on tha b18c1 and c5, tha c1 is better if u want to build it from tha block up but c5 u dont really hav to do anythin wit it jus a few bolt on parts like adjustable cams, cold air intake and basically it'll run pretty decent but ima take it a bit further with the way it breaths with racing intake/exhaust, obd1 conversion, a stage 2 or stage 3 clutch and flywheel, new spark plugs/wires and tune it n if im rite im jus takin a guess but it'll take u down to atleast 15.9-12.7sec on a 1/4 strip depend how its tuned
 

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ima have to check that out i did sum research on tha b18c1 and c5, tha c1 is better if u want to build it from tha block up but c5 u dont really hav to do anythin wit it jus a few bolt on parts like adjustable cams, cold air intake and basically it'll run pretty decent but ima take it a bit further with the way it breaths with racing intake/exhaust, obd1 conversion, a stage 2 or stage 3 clutch and flywheel, new spark plugs/wires and tune it n if im rite im jus takin a guess but it'll take u down to atleast 15.9-12.7sec on a 1/4 strip depend how its tuned
I still lean towards the pr3 head flowing better than the c1 head...but I will conceed that the c1's quench areas are better
 
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