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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was told the other day by a friend that he seen white smoke coming from my exhaust when I was getting on the freeway. And Im just about to buy my turbo parts and it botherd me. So I went and compression tested it today. Before I get to the #s. Im betting the white smoke was because the car wasnt heated up all the way. I dont have any water in my oil. And my car doesnt burn that much oil. Maybe like a quart every 3000-3500 miles. That seems pretty normal to me?

Ok for the test I didnt cut the fuel and open the throttle body. All I did was pull the plugs then test it. I heard there is a few things that might throw the #s off, like lose valve (I need a valve adjustment really bad), and begin low on oil (im about half a court low, maybe alittle more). I dont know if that is true or not??? The gauge was pretty old too. I was told that 150psi is a perfect test # for the y7. Here is what I got 140 - 145 - 130 -150. I was told this is ok, so should I boost or not???? Its seems pretty good to me, giving my lose valves and low oil.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
40_Below said:
How long had you been driving your car? White smoke can come from condensation in the muffler that hasn't dried yet.
Yea, thats what I think it is. The first 5 min. But he was following me for a good 10 min and then told me it happened. But I think he seem it initaly then said he seem it later. Because I cant get some after the motor if fully heated, ie. operation water temp and hot (lower oil psi) oil.

I dont really care about that. I just want to know if you think the #s are ok for 8psi of total T3 domanation.

Thanks,
Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anyone???

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, your car sounds sick by looking at those mods.

Matt
 

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J.O.A.T said:
Ok for the test I didnt cut the fuel and open the throttle body. All I did was pull the plugs then test it.
You need to retest with the fuel disabled and the throttle body open.

I heard there is a few things that might throw the #s off, like lose valve (I need a valve adjustment really bad), and begin low on oil (im about half a court low, maybe alittle more). I dont know if that is true or not??? The gauge was pretty old too. I was told that 150psi is a perfect test # for the y7. Here is what I got 140 - 145 - 130 -150. I was told this is ok, so should I boost or not???? Its seems pretty good to me, giving my lose valves and low oil.

Matt
I got 205-210 across the board on my y8. The y7 should be in the same neighborhood.
 

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it shouldnt be burning ANY oil if ur gonna turbo it... and "being within accepted numbers" isnt really good enough...


running a turbo without damn near perfect tuning can seriously fuck up your engine... so get it dyno checked, double checked, triple checked, whatever it takes to make sure you're not going to put on a turbo and burn up ur engine....
 

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I quick looked in my manual and your number 3 cylinder is below honda's specifications. For sohc engines the standard is 184psi, minimum 135psi and the maximum variation between cylinders is 28psi. Cylinders 1, 2, and 4 are all within those parameters, you need to figure out what's going on with the number 3 cylinder, and get it working consistent, then turbo it. I'd say as long as you're within the honda specifications that you should be fine to turbo. And if you blow a D-series block, i'm sure you can find someone like me with 3 of them sitting in their garage who would give one up to you for next to nothing.
 

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HondaGuyEli said:
I quick looked in my manual and your number 3 cylinder is below honda's specifications. For sohc engines the standard is 184psi, minimum 135psi and the maximum variation between cylinders is 28psi. Cylinders 1, 2, and 4 are all within those parameters, you need to figure out what's going on with the number 3 cylinder, and get it working consistent, then turbo it. I'd say as long as you're within the honda specifications that you should be fine to turbo. And if you blow a D-series block, i'm sure you can find someone like me with 3 of them sitting in their garage who would give one up to you for next to nothing.
his numbers are so low because he didn't open the throttle body... the engine can't compress air if it can't suck any air in...
 

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kommon_sense said:
his numbers are so low because he didn't open the throttle body... the engine can't compress air if it can't suck any air in...
even my compression test results arnt all that great....i wonder if its because of my cheap compression test kit i bought a long time ago. but drives and idles real good.

but yea i would say his numbers are low..never knew when not opening throttle makes a difference much. i have tried it before with it not open for the hell of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks ill give it a retry, then ill get back to you and let you know what happens. BTW valves are really loud for some reason. It just started the other day. Its either there really out of adjustment or I have a burnt valve? Do valves burn eaisly on Hondas?

Thanks, Matt
 

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eg6hatch315 said:
I got 210 across the board with 150k on a d16, pulled ecu and opened throttle. All four cylinders usually have a little valve tapping noise and mine have been making a somewhat louder noise for a while anyone know if thats a serious issue?
what oil do you use?
 

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Damn you all with all your high compression results! :p

I just did mine the other day, 195K miles on the bottom end, and I got results between 182 and 190. I guess the variance could be worse, but my compression could def. be higher. :(

The test was done on a could engine... Maybe I should have warmed it up to get a good operating temp. readout? I'm not sure if that would make a big difference or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok I went out and bought the Craftsmans Compression Tester. I re tested it, and got 190 185 175 190. It was around that. Which seems kinda high considering that the book says 185 factory. So I ran sea foam for 1 full and 1 half tank. I just tested again and ever cylinder was on avrage between 180-185. So it was like this clinder 1: 180-185 cylinder 2: 180-185 cylinder 3: 180-185 cylinder 4: 180-185. So I guess for the #3 cylinder the valve must have been all carboned up. There was a ton of carbon on the pistons before I ran the sea foam and now most of the big stuff is gone. I still need to adjust the valves though.

Matt
 
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