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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok ill lay down what ive R&D so far and you tell me what you think. I have had a bunch of options latley. My plans to get an SRT 4 is bust. Id rather have no car payment and a $250 a month insurance payment. :( O well. So I decided to stick with my Civic till I have enough $$$ to get a newer car (problay the 350Z, no more FF for me, going back to FR). And since my trans is pretty much shot and the engine has a ton of mile on it. I dont think its going to be very fast, so swap and turbo its going to be. I dont have my 68 here with me, and I just sold my CBR, so im going to need something to fill the void for my need for speed. Its like crack, I have to have it.

So here was the options I was thinking of, but dont forget no matter what engine, I am going to turbo, be it sooner or later. B20 Vtec, b16a gen 2, or y8. I was really leaning towards the b16, but have kind of walked away from that and the b20 vtec. Its just to much money. Its going to be around $3k for the complete swap. And thats with me doing it. Its seems cheap when your looking at what it cost to get the complete swap. But once you add stiff motor mounts and a new clutch and the odds and ends it gets $$$. Plus factoring that its going to be a built motor, means Id have to find another block to put forged pistons, rods, and block guard in, while I was running the stock motor in my car. Thats where I was really consideing the y8. I can get a used y8 with a half ass warranty from a used motor place around here for around $900 and its tested. The y8 trans from them too would be around $300. So lets say at most $1500. And I know I dont have to screw with different mounts. Its going in no problem. Id only have to get the y8 wiring harness, who knows it might come with it. It better for $900 :D . And its going to look more stock for the smog bastards. My main idea of going y8 is that while im running the y8 I can use my y7 block to build up. Im not sure if there exatly the same, but I think so? Any help? BTW are axles and all that the same?

So here is what my plans are. Swap to y8 motor/trans. Stiff motor mounts, stage 2 clutch, greddy 19t kit/greddy FMIC (the biggest one i can fit) on low boost. Take my y7 block, Darton sleve, Arais 9.5:1, eagle H beam rods, block guard. Then get a spare y8 head, port/polish, O ring, new cams. Then put that it, and boost the shit out of it. Im hoping for low 12s but will have to see. I dont know. Its pretty much what I have planed in my head. The $ is coming soon, so Ill at least be able to do the swap in the next few weeks then go from there.

Thanks for reading,
Matt
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
N E one?

Matt
 

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The axels are the same as are the blocks.

I would not bother getting a Y8 swap,get any D16 bare block(ebay for like $100/$200) and build it,stay non vtec cause like said before a regrinded Y7 cam can yeild more power than a Y8 head(you can also pick stock Y7 cams up cheap)

Forged pistons/rods(talk to egvtec,and tell him a sent ya)
upgraded spring/retainers in the Y7 head
Turbo it,people say to not go to big on the turbo but turbonetics has a BB T3/T4 that I think would spool just as quick as a standard T3.

Do get a Y8 tranny if you plan on drag racing,I for one will stay with a Y7 tranny cause I dont race and like the long gears on the highway.
Upgraded clutch,11lb flywheel
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awsome info dude. Thank you very much :D (REP) . I like the longer gears in the y7 trans too, but Im going to Drag it some, so ill get a y8.

Thanks, Matt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For the turbo kit I think im going to do the Greddy 19T kit. At least Ill have a base to build on. I dont really want to chace small parts at the moment. Ill just do the JRC FMIC. Do you know which one will fit well. Do you think the 6in will fit? I really dont want to mod anything to make it fit.

Thanks, Matt
 

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if you are going to buy a kit IMHO dont go greddy,half the piping is held together by couplers insted of just having the correctly bent piping.

me personally if I was to buy a kit I would save up for either the edlebrock kit or the turbonetics kit,both are complete,come pre-tuned.Otherwise I'd just go custom.
 

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98civic4door said:
The axels are the same as are the blocks.

I would not bother getting a Y8 swap,get any D16 bare block(ebay for like $100/$200) and build it,stay non vtec cause like said before a regrinded Y7 cam can yeild more power than a Y8 head(you can also pick stock Y7 cams up cheap)
I have no clue why people say this...

Forged pistons/rods(talk to egvtec,and tell him a sent ya)
upgraded spring/retainers in the Y7 head
Turbo it,people say to not go to big on the turbo but turbonetics has a BB T3/T4 that I think would spool just as quick as a standard T3.
Not all about spool. look at a compressor map. A 1.6L really doesn't have enough steam to push a t3/t4 effectively. boost will hit late and hard which can introduce some nasty torque steer. A smaller more gradual turbo would be better. I'm a big fan of a ball-bearing t28. Good for about 250whp.

Do get a Y8 tranny if you plan on drag racing,I for one will stay with a Y7 tranny cause I dont race and like the long gears on the highway.
Upgraded clutch,11lb flywheel
heavier flywheel is better for drag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Kommon, as usual thanks buddy. For the flywheel, Im not going to change it. I know that the light ones kill launches. One thing I have noticed with the y7 begin better than the y8, is that most of the dyno #s I see, the y7 makes alot more torque. Im not saying the y7 is better or its going to make more hp, but I have noticed that it does make more torque.

The edelbrock is sick, but its to much $$$ for me. And you cant re-use the turbo manifold if you ever want to go bigger, its fixed to the turbo. If anything I can make the piping fit better on the Greddy Kit. And the e manage should be tuned, and it should work on my y7, right? Plus I have no need for another IM. I already have a y8 IM on my y7.

Thanks, Matt
 

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kommon_sense said:
I have no clue why people say this...
why its true. =)

However if I was going to be going turbo id actualy opt for the SOHC vtec head, better choice for street-boost IMO

Not to say the non vtec wouldnt be doable either, but if you were trying to consider evrything to optimize, id rather have the weaktec head/cam for the streetabilty in this case.

One thing I have noticed with the y7 begin better than the y8, is that most of the dyno #s I see, the y7 makes alot more torque. Im not saying the y7 is better or its going to make more hp, but I have noticed that it does make more torque.
depends on the setups your comparing. Dont wanna over generalize. =)
 

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yea but a properly designed vtec cam wont fit in the vtec heads! =P

(im not razzin ya man) =)

just promoting good discussion (over here)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey Kommon, quick question. On the stock fuel system (dumb question), is the fuel pressure stable (ie always 48psi or what ever it is) or does it go higher with vaccum? Is it possible to make the stock setting higher, be it stock or after market fuel pressure regulator? I have been reading about injectors latley, and it seems better when you putting about 80psi on the injector. More atomazation (spelling?)

Thanks agian,
Matt
 

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J.O.A.T said:
Hey Kommon, quick question. On the stock fuel system (dumb question), is the fuel pressure stable (ie always 48psi or what ever it is) or does it go higher with vaccum? Is it possible to make the stock setting higher, be it stock or after market fuel pressure regulator? I have been reading about injectors latley, and it seems better when you putting about 80psi on the injector. More atomazation (spelling?)

Thanks agian,
Matt
Fuel pressure goes down with vaccuum. Stock is around 36psi at idle (high vaccuum) and 44psi at WOT (no vaccuum). I *think* that around 56-60psi is what you want on an injector. I seem to recall builthatch talking about that but don't remember the specifics. You can use an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator. If going cheap, go b&m. Otherwise take a look at the aeromotive units.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks (REP).
Matt
 
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