Honda and Acura Car Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
624 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've been running N/A, and it's been fun, but I'm finding that it's a pain in the ass to make decent power on a car that is still a comfortable daily driver. My bottom end is starting to go. My oil is constantly dirty, and my powerband is starting to feel a little flat. I haven't done any tests, but I'm afraid that my rings are failing. 193,000 miles and revving to 8K RPMs will do that to an engine...

I'm currently rebuilding a D16Z6 block from a blown up engine that dropped a valve on the #1 cylinder. I'm planning on boring it over and replacing the pistons with 75.5mm oversized OEM pistons. Yes, I said OEM, rather than forged. I don't have that kind of money, and this is my first time building an engine, so I'm trying to keep the budget low. I'm not going to turbo it right away, but when I do, I'm not aiming for any kind of crazy numbers. I've heard that the D16Z6 can handle 200whp. That would be plenty for a daily driver, and would still be impressive at the track... Even 180whp would make me happy. I was curious though about how much strength I'm losing with the .5mm overbore? I'm also planning on reusing the original rods and crank, and getting honda OEM bearings.

My head is a rebuilt Z6 head from a dismantler with JG Redline springs, refaced OEM valves, and a Skunk2 stage 2 cam. I'm planning on going back to a stock cam for now, maybe getting a Crower turbo stage 2 cam, but keeping the upgraded springs for the extra stability and because it's easier to keep those than to put stock ones in. ;)

As far as a turbo kit, I've never done a turbo, but based on my research, I'm pretty sure that I could piece one together, but since I'm only aiming for 7-8 psi of boost and I'd like to keep it street legal, I'm leaning towards a Greddy kit. The only thing I don't like about the greddy kit is that it doesn't include an IC. Is there any other car that I could use the IC off of? I don't have an AC, and if I could find an IC that fits in place of the AC unit, that would be nice. Other than that, where would you guys recommend finding a new quality IC for cheap?

Tuning wise, I'm not sure of the capability of what comes with the kit itself, but I'm planning on tuning with uberdata.

Also, will my Skunk2 IM give me any kind of gains with a turbo?

Any questions, comments, criticism? I want to hear!

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
93civicdude said:
I've been running N/A, and it's been fun, but I'm finding that it's a pain in the ass to make decent power on a car that is still a comfortable daily driver. My bottom end is starting to go. My oil is constantly dirty, and my powerband is starting to feel a little flat. I haven't done any tests, but I'm afraid that my rings are failing. 193,000 miles and revving to 8K RPMs will do that to an engine...
Are you losing oil or burning oil? Low oil regestered on dip stick or bluish oil smelling smoke from exhaust.

93civicdude said:
I'm currently rebuilding a D16Z6 block from a blown up engine that dropped a valve on the #1 cylinder. I'm planning on boring it over and replacing the pistons with 75.5mm oversized OEM pistons. Yes, I said OEM, rather than forged. I don't have that kind of money, and this is my first time building an engine, so I'm trying to keep the budget low. I'm not going to turbo it right away, but when I do, I'm not aiming for any kind of crazy numbers. I've heard that the D16Z6 can handle 200whp. That would be plenty for a daily driver, and would still be impressive at the track... Even 180whp would make me happy. I was curious though about how much strength I'm losing with the .5mm overbore? I'm also planning on reusing the original rods and crank, and getting honda OEM bearings.
HEY! I'm in the process of writing a DIY 1.6 SOHC Engine rebuild...almost done...haha you should be the first to read it..ANYWAY. Overboring is always good and safe. OEM pistons, which pistons are you talking about? Also, by overboring you won't be losing any power, you actually gain a little(bigger bore, higher compression). As for rods, i think stock should be fine...if you have the extra cash laying around LS rods are a good upgrade, just needs minor machining to fit. Crank should be balanced, chamfered, and the journals smoothed, might get kinda expensive but worth it($50-$100). OEM bearings are good, kteller sells standard dseries bearings which are excellent also(it's what i'm using).

93civicdude said:
My head is a rebuilt Z6 head from a dismantler with JG Redline springs, refaced OEM valves, and a Skunk2 stage 2 cam. I'm planning on going back to a stock cam for now, maybe getting a Crower turbo stage 2 cam, but keeping the upgraded springs for the extra stability and because it's easier to keep those than to put stock ones in. ;)
good idea with stock cam, some n/a cams mixed with turbo don't go too well from what i read and heard(maybe all..haha). if you're going turbo, get turbo cam.

93civicdude said:
As far as a turbo kit, I've never done a turbo, but based on my research, I'm pretty sure that I could piece one together, but since I'm only aiming for 7-8 psi of boost and I'd like to keep it street legal, I'm leaning towards a Greddy kit. The only thing I don't like about the greddy kit is that it doesn't include an IC. Is there any other car that I could use the IC off of? I don't have an AC, and if I could find an IC that fits in place of the AC unit, that would be nice. Other than that, where would you guys recommend finding a new quality IC for cheap?
To tell you the truth, EDELBROCK kit is the BOMB!!! the SHIT!! but alas it's a budget boost. Greddy kits are not bad, maybe you could make a DIY kit from the 14b turbo, or custom a t3/t4. Intercoolers are really cheap, even used ones still go for about $100+. A Mitsu. Starion might work, maybe a bit too small..but might work. Otherwise PWR, Spearco, greddy, hks, many many out there..

93civicdude said:
Tuning wise, I'm not sure of the capability of what comes with the kit itself, but I'm planning on tuning with uberdata.
if possible, Hondata...if not..okie uberdata. You should check out the forums there, they have TONs of turbo roms for you to try out, but be cautious.

93civicdude said:
Also, will my Skunk2 IM give me any kind of gains with a turbo?
I think so. 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
624 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
While my plans for the engine remain the same, I've been hearing some good things about the JRSC. Does anybody know where I can find a good writeup or dyno numbers from a JRSC on a stock D16?

Also, from your experiences, would a turbo or SC be better for a low (7-8PSI) boost daily driven setup? Budget is also definately a factor. I like the price on the Greddy turbo kit, but I'm willing to spend a little more if I can justify it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,384 Posts
i would go edelbrock turbo kit before a jrsc... it comes with absolutely everything. while imo the greddy is a fantastic starter kit. but the performer x is awesome. that in my honest opinion is the best bang for your buck mod.

turbos have come a long way in the last few years leaving tubo lag almost a thing of the past. which is why i think a turbo matched to your application would make you happy. but there is nothing wrong with jrsc, i dont think its as expandable as a greddy turbo kit

as for the dyno, check the jrsc website, i know they have the info there somewhere
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
624 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I keep hearing great things about the edelbrock kit, but it's a lot more expensive than the Greddy kit. I found the Greddy kit on ebay for $1400, but I couldn't find the edelbrock kit. I have seen the Greddy kit for around $2000 other places, but I've seen the edelbrock for $3000 or more...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,384 Posts
yea, the edelbrock kit isn't cheap by any means... but well worth the money. but the greddy kit is still a good power adder in its own rights... if you're looking for bolt-on performance, without having to scrounge around for parts only to find out you forgot something (ex-diy turbo kit you peiced together) a greddy kit is a good way to go, if you cant shell out the extra $2200 for the edelbrock
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
624 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well, I have the whole engine torn down, and I'm ready to start machining the parts. However, seeing how pathetic my stock rods are, I'm thinking that I just might go with forged internals as far as the rods and pistons go. That way I won't have to worry about snapping a rod, and I'll be able to take full advantage of the turbo. What is the best place to find forged pistons and rods for the d16z6? I'm looking for a slight drop in compression, 9:1 or so.

I'm still a little reluctant to bore it over as much as .5mm if I'm going to be boosting. With the forged internals, I'm hoping to max out the turbo (Greddy kit) at 10-11psi. Will the cylinder walls give me any trouble at those levels?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
624 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
egvtec said:
if you are on a budget i have ls rods that hold over 300whp i will sell you for 40 shipped
PM sent. Sorry about the first reply. I didn't take time to do a quick search before sending that. :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
624 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok, according to my research, the LS wrist pins are 21mm where as the D16Z6 is 19mm. To make the LS rods work in my engine, I need some kind of special bushing. I read that crower sold these, but I can't seem to find them. Does anybody know were I can find these? Or is there some way that I can make my own?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
93civicdude said:
Ok, according to my research, the LS wrist pins are 21mm where as the D16Z6 is 19mm. To make the LS rods work in my engine, I need some kind of special bushing. I read that crower sold these, but I can't seem to find them. Does anybody know were I can find these? Or is there some way that I can make my own?

Take a look at this -----> LS rod to D16
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top