Hey...im tryin to build a fast all motor LS. So far all i have is intake, exhaust, FPR and CTR pistons in my motor. Compression should be around 11:4:1. I dynoed a while back and had 141 HP and 120 TQ. I guess thats ok, but im getting a LS head to work on. I was planning on port & polish, valves, springs, and cams. Is there anything else i can do to it? I want to get around low 14's, dunno bout 13's though. Any help appreciated.
Need help with LS build up
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take the extra head and get some quality work done on it, though it may cost $$. get a matching P&P/cam/valvespring job for your higher C/R, then match it up with a Skunk2 IM and possibly larger TB. tune it with Hondata, inj. and cam gears and it should run great N/A.
try Portflow, DPR etc. for headwork/springs. maybe Skunk2 for cams/cam gears. should be a good setup but it has to match and flow together, from the intake through the head to the exhaust.
later
try Portflow, DPR etc. for headwork/springs. maybe Skunk2 for cams/cam gears. should be a good setup but it has to match and flow together, from the intake through the head to the exhaust.
later
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Rotational Mass!!
I would get a lighter flywheel and better clutch. Also see about getting a smaller crank pulley. you might also want to have the engine balanced and blue printed. This should have a decent hp increase and also put less strain on the motor.
I would get a lighter flywheel and better clutch. Also see about getting a smaller crank pulley. you might also want to have the engine balanced and blue printed. This should have a decent hp increase and also put less strain on the motor.
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YOU MIGHT ALSO WANT TO ASK YOURSELF WHERE YOU WANT THE POWER TO BE IN THE RPM BAND. DO YOU PLAN ON REVVING THE ENGINE 7,000 - 10,000 RPM EVERYTIME YOU TOUCH THE GAS OR DO YOU PLAN ON 2,000 - 6,000 RPM. THIS WILL AFFECT HOW YOU NEED TO HAVE THE HEAD PORTED AND POLISHED.
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I WOULD JUST HAVE THEM TO REMOVE THE IMPERFECTIONS AND SMOOTH OUT THE PORTS. HAVE THEM POLISHED TO. YOU DON'T WANT TO REMOVE TO MUCH MATERIAL FROM THE PORTS BECAUSE IF YOU DO YOU WILL LOSE THE TORQUE IN THE LOWER RPM BAND. IF YOU MORE OR LESS JUST HAVE THEM CLEAN THE PORTS UP YOU'LL HAVE WHAT YOU WANT. FOR ABOUT $400 - $700, YOU COULD TURN THE ENGINE INTO VTEC. WITH A B16 HEAD YOU COULD GET ABOUT 195 - 205 HP. THIS WILL PROBABLY BE THE BIGGEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK. DOING THIS COMBO MIGHT BE ABLE TO GET YOU ABOUT 250 HP WITH OTHER BOLT ONS
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I AM REALLY SUPRISED YOUR NOT HAVING TO DO SO ALREADY. THE USUALLY SAY ABOUT THE HIGHEST YOU SHOULD GO IS ABOUT 11:1. IT MIGHT ACTUALLY PROBABLY BE MORE BENEFICIAL TO SELL THE PISTONS AND TRY TO GET THE TYPE R PISTONS FROM THE CIVIC. THE B18A/B IS TO ME THE BEST ENGINE I JUST THINK IT NEEDS A LITTLE ENCOURAGEMENT (B16A HEAD). YOU HAVE AN ADVANTAGE OVER OTHER S WITH THE B18C. I SAW ON THE INTERNET A WHILE BACK A CIVIC W/ THE FRANK ENGINE TOOK A FERRARI 550 SPYDER. IT PULLED A CAR LENGTH AND THE FERRARI WAS NEVER ABLE TO RECOVER.
the rsx-s comes 11:1, so i use 93 octane and no probs. also i love tellin people its an LS, u should see the look on their faces. I dont wanna change pistons again, if i do id prob jus put some low compression and go turbo. i would like to see that clip ferrari gettin spanked
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THE LS'S DON'T GET ENOUGH RESPECT. PEOPLE DON'T REALIZE A FRANK ENGINE IS BETTER THAN THE B18C5 WITHOUT THE THE COST. HAVE YOU GOT THE ECU REPROGRAMMED YET? THAT WOULD HELP. HAVE YOU GOTTEN NEW RODS YET? ALSO YOU MIGHT WANT TO HAVE THE BEAMS ON THE CRANK POSSIBLY POLISHED. THAT WOULD PRODUCE LESS WINDAGE AND GIVE YOU MORE POWER. HAVING THE RODS AND CRANK SHOTPEENED AND MAGNAFLUXED WILL HELP STRENGTHEN THE BOTTOM END. ALSO OIL ADDITIVES, PROLONG WORKS GOOD AND I HAVE HEARD V-MAX WORKS REALLY GOOD.
yep. my friends used laugh at me, but who is laughin now. Stock ecu, for now. iwas gonna get the rods shot peened but the i have to recondition them. i didnt have enough money at the time. i had v-max in my sentra, couldnt ell if it helped or not. but i thought additives didnt work at all. u tried prolong?
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YOU WON'T NOTICE ANY INCREASE IN POWER. WHAT YOU WILL BE FIGHTING THOUGH IS FRICTION. I USED PROLONG DURING A TIME WHEN I WAS HAVING WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM IN MY CRX.
I RAN IT OVER 30 MILES IN THE RED (TEMP) AND IT NEVER LOCKED UP. THEY JUST HELP WITH FRICTION THAT'S IT. YOU MAY SEE THE ENGINE RUNNING COOLER BUT THAT'S THE ONLY GAIN YOU GET.
I RAN IT OVER 30 MILES IN THE RED (TEMP) AND IT NEVER LOCKED UP. THEY JUST HELP WITH FRICTION THAT'S IT. YOU MAY SEE THE ENGINE RUNNING COOLER BUT THAT'S THE ONLY GAIN YOU GET.
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LATER!!!
dude, geoff19crx, PLEASE turn off your caps!! it's unnessecary and annoying!
now back to the subject. as for P&P your head, this can be done yourself if you handle a rotary tool well. if your just cleaning it up then it's actually pretty simple and basically free if you've got the tools. cleaning up the ports and such won't decrease your low end power, unless you really go crazy and port it.
CTR pistons in an LS block with SI/ITR head will yield an 11.9 C/R ratio which is fine on 93 octane fuel and a bit of tuning or ignition retard. the higher C/R will allow you to run stage 2 cams easy with nice gains.
if you are going N/A then the stock rods will be fine and a 7500 rpm limit is ok also if you use cams that make power up to that point. shotpeening the rods (and crank???) isn't needed. the crank in stock trim is fine unless you're going all out and have the $$. ARP rod bolts are an option for safety with higher rpm. rods are an option but should be fine with a high C/R all-motor.
forget about the additives for oil etc., they don't do much if anything. go with a good synthetic oil for more protection.
making power is about the combonation of parts that allow more air into the combustion chamber so you can therefore add more fuel. find the right combo of IM, headwork, cams, C/R, header and exhaust system, then you'll have a killer buildup even if you stay non-VTEC.
for quicker acceleration you could also throw in a GSR or SI/ITR tranny with lightened flywheel. may not be too good if you do alot of highway driving though.
if you have a low budget than replace most of the parts with Honda OEM, throw on a Skunk2 or ITR IM, do a little P&P on the head and get cams that match, use a high flowing exhaust system with a cat/resonator and a better ignition system with some tuning. it'll be good for the $$.
just think out a setup ahead of time for best results and to save money.
later
now back to the subject. as for P&P your head, this can be done yourself if you handle a rotary tool well. if your just cleaning it up then it's actually pretty simple and basically free if you've got the tools. cleaning up the ports and such won't decrease your low end power, unless you really go crazy and port it.
CTR pistons in an LS block with SI/ITR head will yield an 11.9 C/R ratio which is fine on 93 octane fuel and a bit of tuning or ignition retard. the higher C/R will allow you to run stage 2 cams easy with nice gains.
if you are going N/A then the stock rods will be fine and a 7500 rpm limit is ok also if you use cams that make power up to that point. shotpeening the rods (and crank???) isn't needed. the crank in stock trim is fine unless you're going all out and have the $$. ARP rod bolts are an option for safety with higher rpm. rods are an option but should be fine with a high C/R all-motor.
forget about the additives for oil etc., they don't do much if anything. go with a good synthetic oil for more protection.
making power is about the combonation of parts that allow more air into the combustion chamber so you can therefore add more fuel. find the right combo of IM, headwork, cams, C/R, header and exhaust system, then you'll have a killer buildup even if you stay non-VTEC.
for quicker acceleration you could also throw in a GSR or SI/ITR tranny with lightened flywheel. may not be too good if you do alot of highway driving though.
if you have a low budget than replace most of the parts with Honda OEM, throw on a Skunk2 or ITR IM, do a little P&P on the head and get cams that match, use a high flowing exhaust system with a cat/resonator and a better ignition system with some tuning. it'll be good for the $$.
just think out a setup ahead of time for best results and to save money.
later
when i use the compression calc at http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/compcalc/compcalc.html yeilds me a 12.3. check it out.
if i stay LS i was gonna use the crane cams which make power up to 8000 rpm, i like them better than the crower. i wish JG edelbrock a made IM for my LS. maybe by time im ready they will.
and i really appreciate all the help.
if i stay LS i was gonna use the crane cams which make power up to 8000 rpm, i like them better than the crower. i wish JG edelbrock a made IM for my LS. maybe by time im ready they will.
and i really appreciate all the help.
12.3:1 C/R if your using B16 deck height but 11.9:1 C/R if using the B18B deck height, the latter being what you are using.Fubu9009 said:
the JG is a nice IM but as far as i know it is still in production for the LS. more of a F/I IM than N/A though.
for a bit more than the LS cams you could get a VTEC head and do an LSVTEC, that's if you are gonna rev to 8K to make power. then down the road throw a set of Skunk2 stage 2 cams/springs in there and tune. of course $$ plays a part in the buildup so you have to decide.
later
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"sweet" is there a need to bash the advice i give? when doing motor preperation it is important to do preventative maintenance. you are right shotpeening isn't necessary, but would you like to have your daily driver broke down because you overlooked something. whenever you add power it is always good idea to do what you can to prevent engine failure. increasing strength to your stock components or going totally aftermarket.
"fubu9009" you may also want to consider upgrading your fuel system along with the ecu.
"fubu9009" you may also want to consider upgrading your fuel system along with the ecu.
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