Honda and Acura Car Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, this car is for road race/touring/auto-x mainly

FYI-this car will not have a turbo nor a s/c added because it's a true Type-R engine

this car is a somewhat daily driver:

here are my mods:

Interior:
Tenzo Rally Grey/Black Seats
Sparco 4-pt Camlocking Harnesses
Momo SilverJet Steering Wheel
S2000-style "Start Engine" Button
Spoon Shift knob w/ short-shifter
APEXi V-AFC and RSM
Sound System

Exterior:
Carbon Fiber Hood
Tinted Windows
Car Club(s) Decals
Rebadged as a Honda (the true manufacturer)

Engine:
B16B Engine and tranny (w/ LSD)
Comptech Intake w/ Ice Box
Straight pipe
Mugen ECU
ZEX 75 shot dry setup (for strip use only)
MSD Ignition
Skunk2 Stage III Cams w/ Gears
Full Skunk2 Valvetrain
GS-R Injectors
B&M FPR
B&M Oil Cooler
Vemon Fuel Pump

Suspension:
Wilwood Big Brake Kit
Spoon Front Lower Tie Bar
Skunk2 Rear Lower Tie Bar
Skunk2 Front Strut Tower Bar
Tanabe Rear Strut Tower Bar
Suspenion Tech. Rear Sway Bar
Energy Suspension Poly. Bushings
Tokico "Blues" (Non-adjustables)
Ground Control Coilovers
ADR Concept One's (17" in Anthersite @18.5lbs a rim)
Yokohama A520's

Misc:
Removed items:
Rear seats
All seat belts
A/C
Cruise Control
Spare Tire

Future Mods: (all happening over winter, unless otherwise stated)
6 point roll cage
Port and Polished head
Ported and Matched Intake Manifold
Bored-out Throttle Body
True Full Coilovers(when Tokico's go out)

here's my question, i have around $1k after my recent modifying, what would suggest to get now?

Thanx alot guys,

Jay

PS-please only those who really know what they are talking about, ex: 1GreyTeg, Jayman, Randyman, WOT: "Edited by Grey to include the other Good guys.":D
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,834 Posts
Are the things you listed Before your future mods what you have on it right Now?

Remember that we are trying to be constructive Everyone...

Dump the Nitrous,

Get some light 15" wheel's Those 17's will be too heavy for the track and autoX,

Get some Nice sticky rubber for the 15's, the A520's are good but, only come in 16" and bigger,

What are the laws in your area about removing the seatbelts? Around me it is illegal for a road registered car Even "If" you have a harness.

It is a bad idea to run a harness without a cage; think rollover and think you sitting straight up when you roll with no hope of ditching to one side or the other "Crunch" there goes your neck and spine as you head hits the roof not to mention that you won't be wearing a helmet for cruising.

If the motor is a true B16b, you don't need to P&P. You could do more but, there is a fine line where you have enough done and do too much and actually loose power.

The IM should already match,

A larger TB is for Throttle response mostly but, has shown some gains on the B16, overall Not a neccessity. If done the, portmatching is the right idea.



Heres my suggestion for the $1,000.

If you haven't already, then you NEED to DYNO tune that car, ESPECIALLY with what you have done to it.

And or you can hit as many Auto-X's and or HPDE's on a track.

Seat time with an instructor is what makes you fast NOT mods.


Dude, be careful with the harness and No cage that is a dangerous combination.


Thats just quick info, I have to go to work...


Let's see what the Boyz can add?


Good luck, and above all have FUN,,, That's what it's about.;)



A.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanx 1GreyTeg, cops don't care about my harnesses just my car is banned from one city already for some dumb bullsh*t of having a modified car, which according to them is illegal... explain that one

the cams and valvetrain go in next week, so i'm going to the dyno then

the nitrous is only for weekend drag competition, otherwise it'll barely be used, plus i got it dirt-cheap

i can't get a rim that's under 17", the Wilwood brake kit is too big for anything underneath a 17" rim, i plan to get some lightweight rims and race slicks really soon

so you're saying i only need maybe a bigger throttle body? no need for porting??

i have to get ahold of my friend to get my cage in, so whenever i get ahold of him, then i can have it put in

PS-it is a true B16B

Thanx again,

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,575 Posts
Since it sounds like you're done modding your engine tuning should be your next plan. And as Grey stated p/p the head and upgrading to a bigger TB is negligible IMO.

Id work on the suspension(unibody coilovers)...even though your brake system doesnt allow for smaller diameter wheels I d go with something lighter. That should be it...your in a situation where you've done all the necessary upgrades that you dont know whats nex:D...Have fun and enjoy racing...maybe its time for something new
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,388 Posts
i think greyteg and jayman already covered most, if not all, of ur questions.

let's see now. if u can get some lighter wheels than what u have now then good. u'll have more contact patch when u auto-x. the down side is that they're expensive! do ur wheels rub when turning? u might end up with tire troubles if they do rub -- expecially if u do auto-x a lot.

skunk2 stage 3's! wow. u'll need to let me know how those bumpsticks go for daily driving. i haven't seen or heard anyone use those badboys for daily driven vehicles yet.

like greyteg said, port matching, port and polish is not really necessary. if anything just do a mild port job. have a very good shop do that for u if u still decide on the port and polish job.

also, i'd leave the throttle body's stock bore...for now. some people go way over their heads and get huge 70mm tb's. even Tom at Portflow told me to save money with the tb unless i'm going huge. just something to think about :).

that's all i can think of. i also agree with 1Greyteg and Jayman about the dyno and track visits. hone ur skills too.

lotsa luck to ya.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
what kind of tires would you guys suggest for some 17" light weight rims (found some that are 17x7's @ 15lbs a rim for a nice price)?

Also, what do you guys think of the Tanabe Sustec Pro S-S w/ pillow set coilover set up??

my cage goes in, in like a week, a nicely custom made 8 point cage, w/ camera mount, harness bars and cross bars, really stiffen up my chassis

also, while road racing @ a local track I noticed anything above 105-110 mph my tail end gets "happy" and tends to want to move out on me, downforce right? so what kind of wing/spoiler set up do you suggest? my sedan has no spoiler for the factory, what can I do to help this problem??

Thanx Guys, Later,

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
hello??

randyman, JAYMAN320, 1Greyteg.... any replies??

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,388 Posts
as for the tires, i think 1Greyteg should answer that one since he auto-xs frequently. he actually recommended A520's earlier in the post, so....

have u tried asking some tire companies or dealers for what tires would be best for ur kind of "sport"? they might give u some useful information.

does ur tail end get "happy" when going on a straight away?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
yeah even straight the tail end gets "happy"

i'm already running A520's, anything stickier??
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,834 Posts
InsnImprtGuy said:
yeah even straight the tail end gets "happy"

i'm already running A520's, anything stickier??
I'm gonna First say that I really don't understand you saying the rear gets "tail happy" Even in a straight? This does Not make sense. I've also Never experienced the rear loose traction in a straight 0-140 MPH...

In the turns Yes, it can float a little and both throttle lift and trail braking in the turn will induce Oversteer and or adversely affect the rears "happiness" and yours if you aren't careful. Remedying the tail movememnt has alot to do with your Driving Style and Skill, Tire Pressures, and Suspension Setup so you need to be clear with what you mean and Exactly when it has happened. Feel free to describe this "Tail Happy" stuff a little more, especially in a straight line. This is Exactly why you just don't slap on a suspension that you think will work and expect it to turn great times. As well, after having the suspension tuned properly, you need to have it cornerweighted with YOU in the car so it has all the presets and is ready for action.


As for tires, I'll give you 3 tools. 2 are sites that list and sell tires by size and type to best fit your needs and the third is a tire sizing tool that will allow you to see what the differences between tire size and aspect ratios will be:

The tire rack

Discount tire direct

Tire size calculator

As for suggestions. IF you already are not satisfied with the A520's Which BTW are VERY good tires that I had in 16" a few years back, I only have a few left that I'd promote. But, what's the purpose of the tires? Street only? Street/strip? Street/Track,"track as in with turns"

Track or Strip only?

You need to figure this out and then decide. Most of us that race frequently have multiple sets of tires for different conditions and multiple sets of rims. I personally have 3 sets of rims and 4 sets of tires all for different but, specific requirements.


Since you suggest you might drag, I suggest Mickey Thompson Drag Slicks. There is no comparision between these and other could be would be slicks. Ya wanna drag then these are it but, you can't run them on the road.

If you are talking a good tire for double duty for Autocross and road use with minimal if any use in rain, I suggest the Azenis sport. These are actually my next tire to be used as a virgin sacrifice at my next NASA HPDE at Limerock park. These are awesome tires with tenacious grip. But, tend to get a little slick after a few passes on the autocross track, spraying these with a water mister between runs yields more consistant traction results.

Another good dual purpose tire that allows for awesome wet weather traction is the Khumo Ecsta Supra 712...

Then you get into the R compound tires but, if you are just getting into Autocross you should learn for at least a season on street tires to get a good feel for the car and it's limits. Jumping straight to race tires tends to mask your mistakes and then when at that Limit the tires just let go without Any audible warning, they go from super sticky to whoop's Oh Shit and then You spinning to a halt.

On the other hand, AFTER you have learned how to drive on the road tires, you will NEED to get into some R compounds since you have modded yourself into "Street Mod" according to SCCA and Gruppe "D" according to NASA.

Both are EXTREMELY competitive classes that will pit you against extremely experienced drivers in extremely serious machines. It may take you over a year to even place top 5 in your group, unless you are fast learner or are a good driver to begin with and both are entirely possible.

The fact remains that in Those classes you Must run R compound tires to be competitive.

I suggest what Everyone else will suggest:

Hoosier A3S02's, Khumo Ecsta V-700's, and Khumo V-700 Victoracers... The Hooisers are the BEST and grippiest of the bunch But, are also the most $$$. I run them currently and they are almost done, The Khumo series are the affordable competition. The Hoosier is DOT approved as are the Khumo's but, the Hooiser only has Fiberglass belts between the rubber and the road, so I Do NOT suggest running them on the open road.


Ask me more if you like,

It's too bad you can't get back to some 15" wheels and some 225/45/15" Hoosier tires. 17's are HUGE and actually raise your final drive ratio thus making your car slower.


Good luck,

A.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I think I'm going run the V700's, this is for light weight racing rims, that I'll only use for actual race events... Auto-X, Touring, Road Race... etc

how well would these work on the drag strip? just curious

Also, to verify the tail-happy thing, I was coming out of a turn @ ~85mph, and began to accelerate to ~105-110mph, at that time I noticed the looseness of the backend of the Teg, I was actually still turning and more-or-less straightening out, what could I do to help this problem?

To the comment about slapping on a suspension and hoping to work well: the actual suspension set up on my car was already on my car at the time I bought it (Ground Control Coilovers w/ Tokico "Blues" Non-adjustables), I plan to either go w/ some adjustable shocks or get true Coilovers, and I did ask what you guys thought about the Tanabe SusTec Pro S-S's???

Thanx again,

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hello????
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top