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Discussion Starter #1
Like I said, new clutch, less than 3k miles on it.. Before, I could bang 2nd pretty good, almost bang 3rd. Oh, 94 LS, sorry. Got new clutch, drove great for 1st week or so... Now, If I try to bang, at anything above 4k, front end shudders, but the clutch does grab, rather roughly, AND I dont bark my tires... What gives? I figured a new clutch would improve power transfer, and then make it so it would scratch even better, but I am afraid to even try now, when the front end jumps like that...

Anyone have some sort of explaination out there??? White98LS, you helped me before, you know something about this???
 

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I'm pretty sure what you're experiencing is wheel hop. It happens a lot with Integras. Usually it's hard to get smooth wheelspin because of the suspension geometry and shitty soft engine mounts of our cars.... the engine rocks hard back and forth when you shift, causing the front wheels to hop off the ground over and over again when the wheels are spinning. Yes it is loud and not cool (it has made my CD player skip), and no it's not good for your car.

Basically I think it's because your new clutch just grabs harder, so instead of breaking the tires loose gradually, it breaks them loose abruptly and causes the hop. Just shift more smoothly and match revs better. Smoother and no wheelspin doesn't necessarily mean slower shifts. I used to break 'em loose in 3rd too but I learned how to shift more softly and match revs more accurately, and now I barely get wheelspin into second, although that's mainly because my torque peak's right there when I get into 2nd.

Which clutch did you get? Did you break it in properly?
 

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my main question is did you break it in properly?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Went with a Valeo (sp?) stock clutch... Though, with my current plans for the car, I wish I had gone something over stock..

Did I break it in properly? I got on it when I first got it test it out, though I started to lay off, make my shifts as smooth as I could, to be nice to it...
I glaze it every once in a while just because I have difficulty adjusting to the distance the pedal now travels... Took it to my mech. friend, he said it all looked good to me, but I should be nice to it for 1st 3k miles...

This is time for a good thread question...

What is the "best" way to break in a clutch?
Also, White, what do you mean specifically by matching revs?? I think I know what you mean, but I would rather have you say it explicitly, just to make sure.
If I am not getting on it, I go for the smoothest shift I can.. No glazing, no jerky transition...
If I am getting on it, I usually shift pretty hard, hoping for wheelspin to take up the extra pwr.. So you can see where I was having problems...
I have also been learning to pwr shift w/o just popping the clutch, letting the clutch take some of the abuse for a smoother transfer...
Alot of this is a learning experience for me, thats why Im asking all the Qs.... Had a 86 Celica GT-S for along time, but I just beat the fuck out of it.. Trying to do better on this car...
 

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Curufin said:
Went with a Valeo (sp?) stock clutch... Though, with my current plans for the car, I wish I had gone something over stock..

Did I break it in properly? I got on it when I first got it test it out, though I started to lay off, make my shifts as smooth as I could, to be nice to it...
I glaze it every once in a while just because I have difficulty adjusting to the distance the pedal now travels... Took it to my mech. friend, he said it all looked good to me, but I should be nice to it for 1st 3k miles...

This is time for a good thread question...

What is the "best" way to break in a clutch?
Also, White, what do you mean specifically by matching revs?? I think I know what you mean, but I would rather have you say it explicitly, just to make sure.
If I am not getting on it, I go for the smoothest shift I can.. No glazing, no jerky transition...
If I am getting on it, I usually shift pretty hard, hoping for wheelspin to take up the extra pwr.. So you can see where I was having problems...
I have also been learning to pwr shift w/o just popping the clutch, letting the clutch take some of the abuse for a smoother transfer...
Alot of this is a learning experience for me, thats why Im asking all the Qs.... Had a 86 Celica GT-S for along time, but I just beat the fuck out of it.. Trying to do better on this car...
you did not break it in properly, you have fucked up your new clutch, you need to do about 300 miles of city driving to break it in properly
 

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Yeah you want to take it easy on it for at least the first 300 miles, no high-rpm launches and no excessive slipping of the clutch (like high-rpm fast shifts). In-traffic city driving is best, highway driving won't really do anything because you're in 5th almost all the time.

Matching revs means having the engine revving at the same rpm as what it will be spinning at once you let the clutch out in the next gear. For example, if you accelerate to 7000rpm in 1st and 2nd gear at the same speed (say, 33mph) keeps the engine spinning at 4200rpm.... you want to let the revs drop to somewhere close to 4200rpm before you shift into 2nd, let out the clutch and accelerate again. So many people get to redline, shift to the next gear and let out the clutch while still up at the redline, which is hell on your clutch and other drivetrain parts, as well as not being fast.

Wheelspin only means wasted energy - power that is not being transferred effectively to the ground. It is not really "extra power" because your wheels would not be spinning if you were just accelerating full-throttle at that rpm in gear. It's just the sudden shock of the difference between engine speed and wheel speed - the engine is spinning the wheels faster than the ground speed so they break lose. You lose traction and lose time. It's just like launching from a stop - huge wheelspin means slow times. Lots of traction with just a hint of wheelspin is the fastest way. Like I said, you can shift smoothly and still be fast, even faster in fact.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is that anything like shifting into your power curve for the next gear??? The portion of the total rpms that the engine travels that develop the most output?
I hope that I didnt fuck the clutch, it doesnt drive bad, I was just worried about a few instances...
Yeah, I agree White that wheelspin, while flashy and draws attention, is not an efficient way to race, it only ruduces the force you put to the ground, making you slower guy, I used that as an example to ask you guys if this was something to be concerned about... Like I said, figured a new clutch would shift real well, but seems I get too impatient ... *shrug
 

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Naw it's not really about shifting into your power curve, it's about matching the engine speed with the speed it will be traveling once it is in the next gear and the clutch is engaged.
 

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White98LS said:
Naw it's not really about shifting into your power curve, it's about matching the engine speed with the speed it will be traveling once it is in the next gear and the clutch is engaged.

i dont rev match........blah
 

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i wonder if you could possibly have a warped flywheel. If this was the case then you other gears would ride with a little shudder. You probably did not break the clutch in properly and combined with a warped fly wheel would give you a pulsating ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Had it re-surfaced b/f installing new clutch... No mention that it was warped, hope the mechs. would of seen that...
And yeah, I know whatcha talking about White.. I have had master cylinders go out of me in mid-driving, have had to drive w/o ever disengaging the clutch, and that requires rev matching.... Kinda cool to show off that way, but syncros will hate you for days on end....
 

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when will people learn man....:rolleyes:

how do you break in a clutch?:cry:
 

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asianpride559 said:
when will people learn man....:rolleyes:

how do you break in a clutch?:cry:


stop and go driving for 300 miles, well thats only for an organic style disc, if you have a puck style disc those usually need no break-in
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I take my car to a couple of guys at Midas, only cuz they have done great work so far, given me good rates, and they do tons of extra stuff for me, diagnostics, small, free repairs, I watched them dump 300$ on a brand new axle for me cuz the one they got for me wasnt all that great....
Anycase, they didnt mention anything to me about breaking it, and what I asked, the only guy who was available was some guy who just started working there, and he said just drive it like normal.... I am not a complete idiot, I know that there has to be some care to the clutch.... But I had never actually heard anyone talk about breaking in a clutch...

I dont want it to sound like I was racing from every stoplight and stopsign, but I was not afraid to get on it if I felt like it... And I have been keeping that to a minimum, cuz that will just lower the overall life of the clutch, no matter how good it is... And I dont really want to dump more money on a clutch in year and a half

Its never a good day til you learn something new...
 

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stoplight racer :lol2:
 

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temp03 said:
stop and go driving for 300 miles, well thats only for an organic style disc, if you have a puck style disc those usually need no break-in
thank you temp03...why dont people understand not to drive the fuckl outa a new clutch. just like brakes too




curufin: what kinda axels does midas carry that costs 300 bucks? breaking in a clutch means to drive it good for about 300-500 miles. i always go at least 500 just to be sure unless you have a puck disc.
 

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asianpride559 said:
thank you temp03...why dont people understand not to drive the fuckl outa a new clutch. just like brakes too




curufin: what kinda axels does midas carry that costs 300 bucks? breaking in a clutch means to drive it good for about 300-500 miles. i always go at least 500 just to be sure unless you have a puck disc.

word....LOL.....especially w/ brakes.......
 

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asianpride559 said:
yea forreals

some people just don't get it, same thing w/ motors, people say you dont need to break in a motor and rag on the thing the whole time and wonder why it drinks a quart of oil every 1500-2000 miles.....gee i wonder
 
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