Let's explain how this works:
In simple terms the G-tech pro is an accelerometer, an accurate clock and a DSP chip to record measurements 400 times per second ! (The G-Tech is actually more than that, but this is for our own simple explanation for stang newbies).
Calculating HP, speed, distance, Mass, and time to get performance numbers is actually a very easy equation. Let's look...
Velocity (V) (or speed) is calculated by Acceleration (A) multiplied by Time (T). V=AxT. The G-Tech can calculate acceleration with it's internal accelerometer and time it calculates by it's internal clock which is automatically triggered at the launch of your stang. So it can calculate Velocity (or speed) easily.
Now that you have Velocity (V) calculated you can get Distance (D) easily by just multiplying V x T. D=VxT. So now you have Acceleration, Velocity (or speed), Time, AND distance all figured out! Now how do you get Horsepower ?
For horsepower you need to throw Mass (M) into the equation. Mass is the weight of your stang in pounds. Oh yes.. we forgot to tell you, the G-tech allows you to enter the weight of your stang into it ! Now that you have entered the weight of your stang into the G-tech pro, it has all the info it needs to further calculate rear wheel horsepower. The equation is: Horsepower = Velocity x Acceleration x Mass. HP=VxAxM. Now you got rear wheel horsepower !
The G-Tech measures "real" HP that takes into account drivetrain loss, wind drag on your car, any ram air / cold air systems you may have, etc. This is because your stang is actually moving down the road and not standing still on a dyno. Remember that as your speed doubles, wind drag quadruples in resistance. Also because of this your HP may show slightly less than on an actual standing still dyno. This would mean that if you improved the aerodynamics of your stang that it would actually show up as extra HP on the meter even though you did not do anything to your engine. In many forms of road racing HP is talked about and gained in this manner. As "free" HP. In this sense, if it's windy out we'd suggest a run into and out of the wind for a best averaged run. For HP calculations you only need to rev your engine and move until you reach peak HP, you can usually do this in 1st gear.
The accelerometer can also measure both positive and negative G's. This is how the unit can factor in braking distance, by applying negative input from it's accelerometer into equations during braking. The DSP chip records info 400 times per second to insure accuracy. To get right / left lateral g's you simply turn the unit sideways in your stang and drive the skidpad in either direction.
