Honda and Acura Car Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I bought the Porter-cable 7336. 100 bucks.

Where do i get the pads from? Do they sell the pads locally or only online?

What exactly do I need. I've read through posts today for about 3 hours. Everyone uses all sorts of stuff. I really don't want to purchase every single polish, wax, and cleaner on the market. Of coarse like everyone else I do want the "show car" look. So can someone give me a "recipe?"

So far I've decided to use the NXT car wash. I've been using ZIP.

Thanks for the input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
392 Posts
Get the Meguiar's NTX Starter kit from their website...it bring all the essentials for a great price. Thats what I got and then just added a few more things like a Mother's Claybar, some Glass cleaner, Armor all cleaning wipes, some Terry Cloth towels, a bucket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
lmannyr said:
Where do i get the pads from? Do they sell the pads locally or only online?
the sonus das polish pad kit is a good start, it includes 3 different levels of abrasive pads, velcro backplating, and buffing bonnets. you can get from autopia-carcare.com. they also have sonus sfx kit, both are about $50.

http://autopia-carcare.com/son-daspad-kit.html

http://autopia-carcare.com/sosfxfopadki.html

as for which polish to get, im still trying to figure that out myself. last spring i used meguiars deep crystal system, which was pretty good and cheap, but this spring im moving on to einszett paint polish and metallic polish, i hear their polishes are really good.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,998 Posts
Ok. Get your wet suits on cause were diving deep into this one.

-

I have been reading up for a good 6 months now and Iam still learning a lot. It is confusing cause of the many products and everyone has their own opinions it would seem.

I have been trying to break it down for awhile and I just made some purchases and they all dont seem to fit what im looking for really.

But in any case let me get you started.

-

Pads & Backing Plates:

There are a few companies to get backing plates and foam pads from. Each pad normally goes with a certain backing plate size and sometimes type. To make sure you get the right one. Most sites include on the page with pads the correct backing plate to use. You can also save some money and get their kits. Everyone also offers this and always gives a discount.

Here are the main companies:

Sonus . Lake County . Propel . Meguiars and a few others.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com - sonus das and sonus sfx pads
http://www.autogeek.net - meguiars & dual action
http://www.meguiars.com - meguiars only of course
http://www.prestostore.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?ref=exceldetail&ct=29307 - Propel Pads (they have the cheapest kit @ 29.99)
http://www.properautocare.com - lake county

There are also some pads called edge pads. I dont really like the design on those and would stay away from those.

--

Polish, Pre-Wax Cleaner & Wax:

Once you have your pad kit. Youll want to get familiar with products. Most people will want basically an abbrassive polish / medium polish and light polish sometimes called I guess a pre-wax cleaner. Cleaners arent really the same, as in meguiars cleaner. Wheres its looked at a cleaner.

Some pre-wax cleaners are like a glossing type product that just removes any slight slight things, gets everything really well polished, fine fine hazing removed and gets the paint ready for the wax. While the meguiars one is the first step...then polish.

Its confusing and I still really dont get it.

--

Choosing your products

Basically there are so many youll just have to crack down and try something. Whatever makes you think hmm that looks good. Now some people say find what works best for you. Iam not going to do that.

I will say there are some products that are aggressive and actually pull back while using to a lighter polish. Those are cool to mess with. Ill point these out. Second Some have fillers. A filler will hide the true finish...but will also make things easier on you and look better even though it might not be perfect. Some hate these, some dont mind...and im sure a few want this on certain situations.

But Iam going to narrow it down for you.

--

Product Selection:

Here are products I normally see a buzz about and a few key things about them:

Poorboys:
SSR1 & SSR2.5 (SSR2 isnt normally used it seems)
Price: Pretty decent
Pros: Can use these products in the sun , easy to work with and remove.
Cons: None really to think of....doesnt mean there arent some.

.

Meguiars:
#80 Speed Glaze (this product from what I hear is medium strength but pulls back into a wonderful shine...with zero hazing. Some refer to this as almost a 2 steps in one....and its not a compromise on results.)
#83 DACP (Dual Action Cleaner Polish) This is said to be pretty aggressive. It also pulls back , but people say this hazes. Its also said to be somewhat harder to remove and work with. I can say this is somewhat true.
#7 Show Car Glaze - Very Light stuff. Almost no scratch removal. Makes it just deeper and shiner. Again hard to remove and apply this one. Can find this stuff @ autozone though. Good final step before waxing. The pros on the forums really dont seem to mess with this.
Meguiars Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner - From what I hear a really nice pre-wax cleaner. Again this name confuses me...as meguiars states this is also a cleaner, but pros say its a pre-wax cleaner.

Price: Some ok , some are in larger bottles so you have to pay more.
Pros: You can find meguiars products locally, just goto meguairs.com and find "professional line" stores. Lots of people use these. They also smell pretty neat.
Cons: Meguiars seems a bit harder to remove than others. #80 is easier than #83.

.

Einszett German for 1Z
1Z Metallic Polish - German company. Good product. From what I hear applies easy and removal is easy. The 1Z mp has some wax in it. This from what I hear is for light stuff. Light scratches and water spots. You can wax after this.
1Z Ultra / Extra Paint Polish - Strong product, meant for restoring bad paint, removing heavy swirls and oxidation.
1Z Paint Polish - Medium product , removes swirls.

Price: not too bad
Pros: Easy to work with
Cons: Most who used this dont seem to really use it as a their main or favorite afterwards. Kinda goes to the back. I have some , never used it yet. The bottle says something about being harmful to breath....that doesnt sound fun. Also people say it smells not so great...could be wrong though. Lots of info Ive read.

.

3M
Tons of products. There new line which is VOC compliant is the 3000 line. Not much is known about it yet...but im sure its a lot like their previous line.

The perfect-it III line.

All I know is perfect-it III machine glaze is pretty good...not sure about how strong it is.

And now the 3000 Line, people say the 3000 SMR or swirl mark remover. Is the same thing, just voc compliant. I believe some say the perfect-it III MG is a bit better than the newer 3000 smr.

Price: Kinda steep
Pros: Good stuff, hear good things, tons of people dont use it...but a good amount.
Cons: Price and probably availability. Maybe not though , check out 3m and see if you can find a dealer in your area or somewhere online.

.

Sonus
Sonus has tried to make it easy. Im kinda glad about that too.

They have SFX-1 , SFX-2 , SFX-3. One strong , medium and light. Then Sonus PaintWork Cleanser.. Im guessing the final thing before you wax. Aka the pre-wax cleaner.

Price: Pretty good and you can get a kit and save. Also be sure to always use the coupon codes to save even more at autopia.
Pros: Simple , havent heard much they are sorta new.
Cons: Havent heard much

.

Menzerna

Intesive Polish - The name says it all
Final Polish II or FPII - Again pretty easy here.

I hear people like these. Actually quite a bit people suggest these. Im guessing they have the look. I also hear they are easy to use.

Price: not too bad
Pros: reccomended quite a bit, youll see a lot of formulations with these two
Cons: none really that I know of

.

Klasse
Klasse AIO (All in One) - This stuff seems to be very reccomended and also very unique. An old formulation. But still very much used. It forms an acrylic bond to your car. People use this almost like a mad scientist. Throwing all sorts of different things on top of it. It also makes for an easy stick to surface and allows easier topping or layering. Which means basically using two waxes or different final processes to achieve insane results.

Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze - is a companion product to Klasse All-In-One that builds finish depth, gloss and clarity. I see some use this, some use other stuff for this process.

.

Others / P21S / S100
P21S is a great company. Good wax , good pre-wax cleaner and wheel cleaner. S100 is the same thing just cheaper and meant for motorcycles....but its the same stuff cause motos have clear coats. Pros use S100 just the same.

--

Application & Tips

You want to use the right product on the right pad. Almost all medium to light polishes can be used on a light polish pad...basically the lightest you have. But dont use it on a finishing pad...thats normally for wax only.

Medium can be used with medium pads and strong with strong.

You want to use the lightest product first. If that doesnt work....goto a stronger one. But you must always go back. So if you goto a medium. Youll then need to go back to the white.

Then when switching products and using the same pad. Youll have to clean it. Basically the safe way is to get pad cleaning soap. A few places have it. I think autopia and one other place has some stuff. Or you can just put them in a bucket of 50/50 dawn and water solution face down. Let em soak for 30 minutes. Then work the product out of the pad by hand. Flatten the pad like a pancake afterwards to get out the extra water and let air dry.

Now for the application.

First. You will want to of course wash the car. And do a good job...any missed dirt can equal ruined paint as your pc will pick it up and buff it all around you paint. So be thorough.

Second. You will then want to clay the car. Yes this is a must do thing. It makes it easier to polish as well when polishing this stuff will come free and get buffed into the pad. Some wont go anywhere and the contaminents in the paint dull your finish as well destroy it. If your going to do a car that hasnt been worked on and isnt brand new. Its going to need this.

Now once your done. Your ready for application.

Bust out the pc. Put on the new backing plate...and put your pad on. Be sure its centered. Just spin the pad on the pc and if it goes around and doesnt look wobbly your good. Some cant be perfect....but get it as close as possible.

Next, apply product to your pad. Basically make 3 circles and then get a QD spray and spray a squirt or two on the pad. Set the buffer to like 1 or 2. Set it on the paint and smear the polish around and into the pad.

Then turn on the PC and always be sure to turn it on with it on the car or there will be splatter.

Dont press down on the buffer hard. Increase speed once the polish is mixed in. Take it to about 4 and get comfortable...increase speed if you feel comfortable. After about 4.5 it seems to take off...

Also read directions very carefully on your polishes. Almost all products have different methods. From application to removal. For instance some want less product on the pad , some want more. Some need to be fully dry for easy removal. Some need to be almost dry.

Before using a product. Read up on it. See what people like and dislike, common problems and solutions and youll be good to go.

Then buff off with a mf towel. Which btw some polishes react better to certain towels. So you might want to look into getting 2 different types of mf towel. Like one plush and the other kinda waffle weave like.

If your still having trouble getting stuff out. You can also spray a little QD spray to your towel or the paint and that will normally fix that problem.

Try to use the right amount prodcut and bring it to a haze...this makes usually for easy removal for most products. Thick layers make for hard removal and waste of product. As well it might not break down right.

--

Hope this helps. Got any questions. Let me know.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,998 Posts
Also formula wise. Here is going to be my personal list. This is on a not so bad car.

NXT Wash / Mothers Clay / #80 / S100 Shine Enhancing Polish / S100 Wax

#80 makes for less steps. So its kinda cool that way. Also for a little fun I might also try nxt wax then the s100 wax.

I also want to try maybe

NXT Wash / Mothers Clay / SSR2.5 / SSR1 / S100 Wax

I might throw S100 SEC in before the wax....but would have to see 1's results.

Another would be

NXT Wash / Mothers Clay / Menzerna IP / Menzerna FPII / Klasse AIO / S100

Also reason why I would use s100. Its easy to use. Its a carnuba. It doesnt clean or remove things. Just covers. And its also cheap and easy to get locally....that is if you have harley stores in the area.

You can use any range of waxes. A lot of people also like #16 from meguiars or nattys from poorboys. Also if you got the money, pinnacle has some really nice waxes from what I hear...but they cost too much for me.

Ill soon have a more comprehensive report on all my findings. Its been a long time coming...and with my recent purchase of my pc. Im rewriting a lot of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
864 Posts
I "officially" used my PC last yesterday... Damn that thing is a beast :clap Also tried a few new products with it. Here's what I did:

Wash, blowdry/towel dry, Meguiar's #9 on Sonus green pad, S100 SEC on Blue pad, and NXT Wax on blue pad. Results were amazing, even after just buffing off the #9.

And Mike, you are right about the S100. That stuff is the easiest to apply and the G-Damn easiest stuff to remove. Since it is carnauba and oils, working with that stuff is just cake. When I get my Poorboy's SSR2.5 on Monday, my friend and I are doing his '91 black MR2. Has a lot of swirling, so I'm going to try the 2.5 on a Green pad, and if it doesn't work, I'll work it in on the orange. Would that be ok? Then I'll follow it up with the #9 probably, S100 and NXT Wax, or Natty Wax.

EDIT: Here's some pics that I took last night when I finished.









All in all, I'm very happy with the results from my 1st time using the machine :clap
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,998 Posts
Wow that looks nice. Funny you are using #9 I actually got that 2 weeks ago and have been playing around with it. I couldnt find anything else so I went with that. Its pretty good. Seems to gum up on my pad though.

I would rather have the #80 over the #9....but #9 is a light non-abbrassive polish. Also smells pretty nice. I thought it smelt like now & later banana.

I just hear #80 is stronger , but ends up with a shine like #9. And I think its easier to use. So far #9 is probably the most annoying to work with.

Also shaking it up well is also a task since its so thick.

As for S100 SEC. Its good stuff, so easy to use. I love the smell when its on the pc. It smells like my nitro rc car. Just a real light scent...like after I ran it or something.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,998 Posts
Also Here is a photo of the 350Z I did the other day.



I clayed it and used just #9. Looks pretty good. The paint was in decent condition for being new....just lots of stuff the clay bar needed to get. And it was dying for some polish. Seems to have made the paint darker and deeper. The shine also went up a good amount. I was pretty happy being this car is semi new.

Im probably going to do like one more step then will probably top it with NXT.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
864 Posts
Nice work on the 350! :number1 I love how those colors get a nice deep, dark look to them after a good polishing. I hate how people neglect the finish on nice cars like that...

I'm sure if I used a claybar I would have had a little better shine. It hasn't been clayed in months. Going to do that for my spring cleaning :tu Spending 2 days on it before my FloridaStreetScene meet (April 9th). 1st day on exterior/engine, and the 2nd on interior and undercarriage. The baby will be spotless all over.

I picked up the #9 cuz I had a $50 gift card to Pepboys, so I wanted to get some new stuff, and it was one of the few nice things that they had. My SSR2.5 wasn't in yet, so I had to use the #9. It's fairly easy to apply, though it seems you have to use a good bit of it to start, but it's a pita to remove. Almost the same as the 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound (blue label). I had to really rub with my mf towel to remove the #9, and I worked it in good till it was almost gone.

I agree with the S100 SEC, the smell is great. It's kinda like... a sweet, very faint rubbing alcohol smell, but the N&L banana smell sounds better, hah.

Well I won't be able to do my friend's MR2 this week, things came up so he won't be able to bring it over. Then I work the middle of the week on, so when he's available, I'm not, hah. Also, do you think the SSR2.5 would be really effective on the Sonus orange pad? He has a lot of swirls/fine scratches and I wan't it to look near flawless.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,998 Posts
I think the medium pad should work. Always start lighter. Then go more aggressive if needed.

Also I used the #9 on the blue pad for the Z. And yeah thats gotta be the most neglected Z ever. First off...it has 100 paint chips in the front cause of bugs. Luckily you cant see them unless your right on it. Its like you feel it and its like you want to clay bar it....there so close together. But then you look and your like damn...thats more chips than a bag of doritos.

The car is never washed. Iam the only one that did it. Interior...like a homless person lived in it.... Rims coated worse than anything ive seen.

The exhaust tips also look like crap. But once those are done and I vaccum the interior and clean the seats. Itll be good as new.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top