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Why should you try my kit? Is it any better than the rest? Well let me answer that for you.

Digital progressive controller, currently the most advanced on the market. Why is this better than a boost switch? Well many already know of the problems with accuracy. They are only rated at 125 degrees and have a factory accuracy of + or – 20% so vibration from the engine changes there setting as well this can effect there ability to function as some of you already know. They are not designed for under hood operation unless you get the upgraded ones with the Teflon diaphragms.

The Digital progressive controller is accurate to .01 psi of boost, you have in car control of your system and the controller has features that no other one has. I monitors your pumps voltage, your electrical connection ect. It will let you know if you have lost a pump ground or any electrical connection. It eliminates the need for a clogged nozzle detector because it know when this occurs because the pressure switch will trip and hold and cause the controller to sense this warning you to get out of the throttle by flashing the 3rd LED. This is the only controller with current sensing technology.

The new V2 controller now is programmable from 2 to 3 bar. It can also be set up to run a 3.5, 4 or 5 bar map. It is the only controller that be set up this way and be dead on accurate. It is the only true smart controller.

How the controller works.
The first red LED indicates power to the controller
The second LED indicates the pump has turned on and it will get brighter as the pump ramps up.
The 3rd LED indicates full pump pressure is reached and all three will remain on solid at this point.

Any electrical problems such as lost ground, clogged nozzle, lost pump connection will cause the controller to blink the 3rd LED and disable the system until it is fixed. This is so you don’t go blowing your motor.

A progressive system eliminates the need for bulky multi stage systems making you install look clean and almost invisible. For turbos this is a valuable tool you can start cooling your intake charge down much earlier in your boost range and will not bog out the motor with a full surge of alky all at once. The cooler charge and higher octane will gain you power much sooner.

The controller also has a 5v output that allows you to add a MAP sensor to any vehicle.

Now lets talk about the parts.

Controller: ( 2 bar version shown), 3 bar starts at 2psi and goes to 27psi and the full side starts at 4psi and goes to 30psi.


How small it's? It comes in at 1oz :eek This is our old V1 3 bar version which has been upgraded to look like the other pic. Just wanted you to see how small it is.



Let's talk parts

I use the best hose you can get. There is nothing stronger that is not hydraulic hose. I feel this is a important part of the kit. Not only looks but for longevity. It's your motor you should put the best parts in your system. Most kits use poly fuel hose, commonly used in go karts.

You compare, this is what many use.


This is what I use. 350psi flame resistant Swaglok hose 1/2" OD, 1/4" ID. this will outlast your car period. It's worth the 1.56 a foot I pay for it. you can see the quality difference over .15 cents a foot. The last thing you need is to be working on your car and nick your hose. You can cut a nice chunk out of this and it still won't leak due to the wall thickness and reiforcing threads.



How about the fittings. I don't use plastic fittings period, and no push on barb fittings. Do you really want to have to cut your hose off just to remove or relocate it. I use 4AN style fittings on all the kits. Compare these to other kits and I think you'll agree which most would pick.

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/water-injection-parts-3/pump-40/shurflo-150-psi-pump-15.html


Pump
Is adjustable from 60 to around 200psi the controller puts out 13.4 volts to the pump. The pump is the same as what 99% of people use a Shurflo 8000 series. It is 100% methanol safe.

Warranty info.
Lifetime on the hose, fittings.
2 year on the pump
1 year on the controller

I do not cover physical damage to any item. I.E you don’t properly mount your pump and it goes bouncing down the road it’s not covered. You get the picture.

Ask all the questions you like.

Feel free to visit us at www.alcohol-injection.com there is a forum and web store to check out. I look forward to helping you with your forced induction needs.

You cannot find a better kit for the money Period.
 

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you dont really have to bump this in here. This isnt a for sale forum.
 

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I can vouch for these guys,my buddy got this kit for his 00 eclipse and it helped pull temps down like a mofo.

Nice little setup
 

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Ive been researching this (meth/water injection) recently and am trying to figure out the pros and cons of this kind of setup.
How do i know which nozzles to use?
Will this allow me to stay in boost a little longer?
Ive also noticed a lot of domestics, STIs and evos use it ......y arent the honda guys using it?!

I will be deciding on a kit within the next 2 weeks BTW.
 

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Could be why dsm are faster :) j/k serious though its a very popular on dsm, srt, evo, sti but has never caught on in this crowd. I know i have 2 local 10 sec hondas running our setup.
 

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Works well for me. I do highway pulls and the temps dont even go up. I use it as a safety net to prevent engine damage.
 
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