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Ok, I know that h22's run rich and smoking is ok, but has anyone ever used an oil additive that is suppose to "fill in" the loose spaces and keep it from smoking? Its a thicker liquid and Im afraid it might clog up the smaller oil passages...

(17036 bytes)No-Smoke offers a "no-frills" approach to the number one problem in older cars - oil burning, and is the most effective product available for reducing the problem of - excessive exhaust smoke!

Every year that a car is driven one thing is certain, the internal engine parts are wearing away. As the metal wears away the moving parts do not fit together as closely as they should. This leaves gaps between, piston rings and the cylinder walls, between valve stems and valve guides, and a sloppy action of cams, push rods and lifters.

This allows oil to creep up the cylinder wall past the rings and allows oil to be sucked past the valve guides into the combustion chamber. As the oil is burnt in the combustion process black smoke is emitted from the vehicle's exhaust pipe. Regular grades of oil cannot prevent this oil burning, but regular grades of oil fortified with "Bardahl No-Smoke" can reduce it to tolerable levels.

In addition "No-Smoke” helps to "fill-in" the loose tolerances between all moving engine parts to quiet noisy lifters and reduce general engine noise. Also by improving compression "No-Smoke" restores performance.

"Bardahl No-Smoke"'s effectiveness is due to its heavy weight polymers and highly viscous (very thick) formula - much heavier than any competing product. This difference can be demonstrated by the bubble test. Take a bottle of "No-Smoke" and a bottle of a competing product and place them side by side. Invert both bottles and watch the air bubble in each bottle slowly rise. The bubble in the "Bardahl No-Smoke" bottle will rise much. more slowly than the competitor- thus showing that it has a much heavier viscosity and, polymer weight.
 

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i personally stay away from additives as much as i can, because the i figure if they wanted you to put in additives, they would tell you to... i either use high grade oil and change 3k miles or lower grade oil and change 1k-2k... while i dont have a prelude, this works in the bmw, the miata, the 71 pickup, and the 84 ferrari.......
 

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I think it'a BS...all I see it doing is thickening your oil-turning it into something less likely to seep through the rings and burn up. probably not a good idea.
 

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NO, dont do it....
works by making your oil a LOT thicker, basically creating gunk. Your best bet is to go back to dyno oil (if you're not using it already) and use a thicker weight. Theres really not much you can do about oil burning other than a rebuild. An addative will not magically repair cracked ringlands, damaged rings or scored cylinders.

again... use a thicker weight oil, and consider using valvoline maxlife, lots of people have had success with that. Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com they have a really helpful and knowledgable forum, you will probably read the same thing about addatives (ie. dont use them).
 

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NOOO... stuff is horrible for an engine. Might be ok for your 91 Caravan that smokes a lot... but not your high revving, tight tolerance H22... Just go with thicker oil like some people already said. I use Valvoline VR1 20W50 Race Oil... its the best Ive found so far for performance and cutting down on the smoke. Only $4 a quart too :number1
 

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no magical fluid in your motor is going to solve the real problem. If you car is continually blowing white, black or blue smoke fix the internal problem with your motor (valve seats, head gasket, piston rings, timing, etc)

Putting that crap in your motor with cause more stress on your oil pump.
 

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I was going to create a new post about this product, but I found this first.

I actually tried this on my 97 Prelude (65k mileage) which consumes 1 qt engine oil for every 1500miles and got some smoke only when the VTEC kicks in. I tried to use thicker weight of engine oil, but the engine vibrated a lot.

IMO, I guess this product works pretty well with H22a. :clap
After 2000 miles with Castrol synth 5w-30 and 5 oz Bardahl oil treatment on my prelude, there's no sign of engine oil consumption so far. The indicater on the stick still remains at max level. And no smoke anymore. Engine revs smoothly, and VTEC kicks in perfectly. I don't think this oil treatment make the engine oil a lot thicker becasue I do not feel so. And there's no problem so far.

This is just my opinion. :w00t
 

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adr said:
I was going to create a new post about this product, but I found this first.

I actually tried this on my 97 Prelude (65k mileage) which consumes 1 qt engine oil for every 1500miles and got some smoke only when the VTEC kicks in. I tried to use thicker weight of engine oil, but the engine vibrated a lot.

IMO, I guess this product works pretty well with H22a. :clap
After 2000 miles with Castrol synth 5w-30 and 5 oz Bardahl oil treatment on my prelude, there's no sign of engine oil consumption so far. The indicater on the stick still remains at max level. And no smoke anymore. Engine revs smoothly, and VTEC kicks in perfectly. I don't think this oil treatment make the engine oil a lot thicker becasue I do not feel so. And there's no problem so far.

This is just my opinion. :w00t

good to hear from someone who actually used it, let us know in the future of how everything goes with your next oil change
 
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