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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so as u may now i had my cam and crank seals replaced leaking pretty good and now just tonight i was coming home and my oil light came on when i had it in nuetral ( no oil is not low) and then when i put it in gear the rpms went back up it went off then it came on full and started to bling u think that maybe the wires in the back of the block are loose let me know thanks,...
 

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Prelude92Si said:
ok so as u may now i had my cam and crank seals replaced leaking pretty good and now just tonight i was coming home and my oil light came on when i had it in nuetral ( no oil is not low) and then when i put it in gear the rpms went back up it went off then it came on full and started to bling u think that maybe the wires in the back of the block are loose let me know thanks,...
maybe, or even a bad oil sensor
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks thats the part where the wires plug into right in the back of the block... i have one off my old motor is it complicated to put on..or switch out..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well how hard is the sensor to do i have one laying around ehre somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok so i tighened the wire up and went for a drive. got it warmed up to operating temp half way on the bars lol.. and let it sit at the stop sign fine went a little further fine little more fine slow down to pull in my driveway (steep bottom out sometimes) of course it comes on really dim and i give it a little gas and it goes completely out park let it idle same damn thing so i think its the sensor so i ordered on should be in tommorow its only 5.18 or some shit like that. i think its the sensor because it was fine idling at warm tmep till later . by the way im running 5W 30 MOBIL ! would that have anything to do with this i changed it thats when the oil started leaking and it started to come on real dimm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i changed the sensor still coming on very dim untill i give it a TINY bit of gas u think that maybe the idle may be to low and its causing the light to come on thinking its going to stall? also like i said it all started wheni put 5W30 in the car leaking and light coming on very dimm. REPLY ASAP PLEASE.. also last friday the garge here installed the seals and also a new drive belt and timing belt could the drivebelt be a little to loose causing it to slip and casue the oil pump to not circulate enough???HELP..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
fucking help me .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
IM taking it back to the gargae and saying it didnt come on till last friday when i picked it back up which is true i dont have a oil gauge nor am i sure on how to hook it up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
oil pump hard to replace
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Haahah the guy at the garage said the oil may be causing the problem if i remember correctly the old motor was 10W30 i just thought it was 5W30 for some reason i put that in so the garage said that may be the problem i dont have a oil pressure guage and they want to charge me 25 dollars to do that for 1/2 labor.. also my motor is a H23 what oil is recomended in this motor... 10 or 5 w 30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OH by the way hes just mad i have a 4th gen (non vtec mind u ) that beats him till 110 sad yes i know maybe its the driver HMMM.... :hehe
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
would changing to a thicker oil help cause 10 W 30 would be thicker and once it warmed up would be the thickness of 5W 30 when cold so 5 is probably like water when its warm
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok so they are donig a oil pressure test and checking the bearings to make sure there not bad OMG if its the bearings ill be on my 3rd fuckin motor and i blew the 228000 mile motor last sept now this OMG i can deal with this HMMM i like to rev up high (never take that H23 past redline) HMMMM should i go H22 and do a build like 99preludesh HMMMMM perhaps since i am going turbo..
 
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